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Edison Pens has a new pen called Collier Grande with a number 8 nib. The pen looks nice and there are many materials to chose from.If any one had already try one,how soft are the nibs? Is the pen a good long writing? Thanks for your comments.

There are some reviews on the Platinum Cool, which is also known as Platinum Balance, on FPN and other places. Nevertheless I think adding one more might contribute some more information, another perspective, experience and pictures. I had this pen in fine and medium and now use the fine for more than a year. Introduction This review is meant to depict my personal opinion and valuation. I wont use points to rate aspects. While I dont intend to criticize those who do, I dont want to evoke the semblance of objectivity. I am neither an expert for standards used nor could I compare this pen to dozens of others. Due to these limitations to what might be an ideal review, I will simply try my best to describe my experience with this model in a way which allows you to contrast it to your own experience and preferences. Nonetheless I will offer a few comparisons which might be useful. Platinum officially calls this model PGB-3000A and categorises it as a member of its Balance-family on its website. The Cool features a relatively springy steel nib in fine or medium, an acrylic resin torpedo-shaped body of medium size and weight. First Impressions The pen came in a nice-looking cardboard box which also included a Platinum proprietary cartridge and an instruction manual. Unfortunately there was no converter included. I was pleasantly surprised with the box. I wouldnt be ashamed to have the box be part of a present even though it was probably not necessarily meant to be displayed. While to me this pen feels solid and well made it cant keep up with the clear Platinum 3776 versions if we dont consider the price. The clear plastic with chrome trim looks modern. Appearance and Construction The Cool is available in three different colours, shining crystal, crystal blue and crystal rose. The clear one is, well, clear, the coloured ones are highly translucent. As I mentioned this pen is torpedo shaped, having a cap which becomes slightly wider towards the cap band and a barrel which then tapers towards its end. The Cool is mostly made from plastic. I like its quality because it really is clear, not prone to scratching and the material is quite thick which gives it a more sturdy impression than a Platinum Preppy. A Preppys barrel can be deformed when a lot of pressure is applied by hand, this one seems much more robust. One plastic part I strongly dislike is its cap insert. While it doesnt feature Platinums sophisticated slip and seal mechanism it still works well - but looks ugly. Being opaque white it doesnt match the design in my eyes. The point, I assume, is to hide traces of ink inside the cap. Where the insert is it does its job, however to me this isnt worth the effort as I consider it flawed in two ways. On the one hand this white insert is far more noticeable than ink stains in the cap, on the other hand at least in my case the white now is covered in blue spots all around its upper part where it occasionally had contact with the nib and these are more visible due to the higher contrast than those in the cap which exist where the insert cant cover them up. I would prefer a clear cap insert or a cap sealing reasonably without an insert. I'm aware my focus on staining might cast a negative light on the Cool. Thus I want to point out I don't consider this a weakness or criticize it - other pens suffer similarly from my decision to use such ink. I knew that and am fine with it, I simply look at this pen from this angle based on my personal experience. I am sure if you use non permanent colours you can maintain its transparency. The clip is simple, functional and sturdy adorned by a subtly engraved line around its rim only. Similarly utilitarian the cap band is narrow. On the cap directly above it JAPAN PLATINUM and Platinums Logo are engraved. A big part of the body is faceted though in a different way than a TWSBI Diamond as the facets are inside the barrel making its outside round and smooth. Thus the facets only affect the appearance and light refraction. Being clear the section allows the transparent feed and metal threads to be seen which probably is the most attractive and promotional aspect this pen offers. This feature makes the feed adopt the colour of your ink. In general lighter colours come across better, more like they look on paper than darker colours. The effect is similar to ink in a bottle or converter, the more ink light travels through the darker the colour will look like. Pigment inks however are an exception to this rule behaving less like this. Speaking of pigment inks, I already mentioned traces of ink and stains in the cap and insert, ink of course can also stain the feed. If you want to keep the feed completely transparent, I recommend to have this in mind when choosing an ink. In my photos you can see the effect of using Platinum Pigment Blue and Sailor Sei Boku for months (with regular cleaning). Cleanings results are limited with pigment inks. I dont think they damage or penetrate the plastic used but once they dry they are hard to remove because water then wont do anything. Removing dried pigment ink mechanically is possible, gently rubbing is enough, but limited to accessible areas and areas like the body and inside of the cap which are smooth. I am not able to completely remove stains from the feed. If you tried it with an ultrasonic cleaner I would love to read about your experience. The sections circumference is on the narrow side, I would say. Wider than a Pilot Metropolitan section for example or a Waterman Hemispheres one, which for me is not comfortable. I recommend Goulets Pen Plaza for comparisons. Since the connection between section and barrel is made from metal the front part is heavier than the plastic back where only the converter adds weight. The section unfortunately comes with another downside as its threads are sharp enough to abrase material from the plastic threads on the barrel, at least in my case. Im sure this wont be more than an aesthetic problem for the next few years but it doesnt improve the experience either. Weight and Dimensions Length capped: 139,5mm 5,5in Length posted: ~154mm 6,1in Length uncapped: ~126mm 5in Weight body: 13g 0,46oz Weight cap: 5g 0,18oz The more subjective assessment: This model is section-heavy but works well. Posting for me adds too much weight to the back. The Cool is about as heavy/light as a Lamy Safari. Nib and Performance As already mentioned the nib is made from steel and available in fine and medium. The nib is rather small, normal sized for the pens overall size. In contrast to most Japanese and Platinum pens in this model the line width runs similar to an average European fountain pen. I also found both the medium and fine rather wet. Combined this results in rather wide lines, maybe even compared to some fine running European brands. How it feels writing is more congruent to other Platinum pens as mine write smoothly and with some even feedback. An interesting feature is the relatively springy nib. Following the logic of what Platinum says about the new Platinum Procyon this might be due to the pentagon-shaped nib. It offers more flexibility than a Lamy Safari or Pilot Metropolitan to which I compared it before, I wouldnt call it flex though. My experience is limited but considering what I have seen it also is much less flexible than a Pilot Falcon or FA nib. When pressure is applied the line width increases, more noticeable in the fine than the medium, as well as the ink flow. You can reasonably expect the line width to become 1,5 times as wide, maybe to double. During normal writing the effect is very small, writing feels springier than with a nail-like steel nib. But I wouldnt recommend to constantly apply (a lot of) pressure, to me this nib doesnt feel like it would like this. The ink flow is even, doesnt decrease over time and easily keeps up with fast writing. Edit: The symbol on the left means 'fine', the one on the right 'medium'. Both nibs are silver coloured, the ambient light affected the reflection. Filling System and Maintenance Platinum uses a proprietary cartridge/converter system. There was no converter included which is common at this price point. Buying one is worth it I think. The converter is very well made overall, feels sturdy and can be taken apart for cleaning if you wish so. Its mouth is made from plastic surrounded by a metal ring. The clear part stood up surprisingly well against staining being still clear. The shroud is from metal again. Take a look at the pictures to see the piston mechanism inside the converter. The knob is made from plastic and features grooves, turning it feels controlled. Platinums cartridges are smaller than large standard international ones, and close in size to Pilot's cartridges. Their body is fairly thick and they contain a metal ball agitator. Cost and Value The Platinum Cool retails for about 40 US-Dollar in the US. I havent seen it at European retailers and must admit I dont know much about other markets. Some companies offer it for around 25 Dollar/Euro. Customer care usually is limited if you would have to send it back to Japan from Europe for example but these shipping costs probably exceed their benefits anyway at this price. The Cool can be considered an entry-level pen, maybe an upgrade to a Preppy or Plaisir. There are a lot of good competitors. I can name the Safari and Metropolitan again, but there are many more. I think the Cool cannot surpass them in writing experience, construction quality or filling-system but neither lacks behind. A clearer reason to buy is its transparent body and feed. Conclusion The Platinum Cool is an affordable demonstrator which offers reliable and controlled writing. Its transparent feed makes it special. If you aim for a super-smooth entry-level pen, look elsewhere. If you like the design you probably wont be disappointed by its other features. Feedback, criticism and further questions or opinions are welcome. Feel free to point out language mistakes I might have made. Edit 1: removed my remark on what the symbol on the nib stands for. It indicates the nib size,but I probably mixed up fine and medium. Edit 2: added picture for comparison of the symbols adorning the nib which mean 'fine' and 'medium'. Thanks for pointing out my mistake, Pseudo88.

What will be the Sailor nib length comparison in comparison to standard German Bock #5, #6 nibs or #8 nibs?

Hello FPNers, I'm all about vintage flex and want to use a rough adaptation of Copperplate for journaling and letters. A while back I purchased a lovely little gold-filled ring top Wahl FP with a wet noodle #2 nib. The nib writes about a Western EF when not flexed, so I'd like to get a finer nib. My question is: should I have the nib reground to a finer point for calligraphy purposes or should I get another pen entirely? Will the small size of the pen make it harder to control for styles like Copperplate or Spencerian, or does the weight of the all-metal construction make up for it? Control is fine with the EF nib, but I'm wondering if it will be harder to control with a needlepoint nib. My big pen purchase goal for next year is to score a wet noodle Waterman 52. Would it be better to have the nib on a larger pen like that made into a needlepoint? Thanks for any advice!

Some context for the adventure here. The question comes in the last paragraph. I bought a long model Onoto 6234 from Spain recently, expecting it would need some service work. The pen looked to be in very fine shape externally, so that was promising. The plunger was extremely difficult to push down. Before taking it further apart, I removed the section to add some silicone grease to the barrel, as an experiment. Now the plunger moved very easily, but with no suitable 'pop' of vacuum breaking. Removing the rod showed that the "cup washer" was made from two bits of what appears to be bicycle inner tube (it curves floppily on one radius) hand cut with a knife into a random polygon roughly approximating a circle, with no cone washer for support. OK, I can replace that. A lack of ink in the barrel or section suggested the earlier repairer had found their effort was not entirely successful. I noted also that the plunger cone pin had rust around it! Pushing it out, I found that my predecessor had resorted to a bit of metal for the pin, and not a rust-proof bit, for this pin immersed in dyed water. Also, the rod was bent, presumably from trying to force down the ungreased piston. Well, it is ebonite with a wire core. I am trying to ease its bend at the moment. It may need replacement. Next, I turned to the cork seal at the top of the barrel. Hmm, no seal screw. That does not help. So, to the question: Does anyone know the threading used for the seal screw on top of an Onoto barrel? Given they used 5BA for the rod, I am conjecturing it will be 0BA or 1BA (but normal RH thread). If it is, I may be able to make another.

Dear distinguished gentlemen, any help on this topic would be highly appreciated. I am deeply and profoundly in love with the modern Duofold, Centennials early MK1 models form the '80. Somehow, I never got especially attached to the later modern versions of the Duofold despite minimal design differences. I am referring to the ones with the slightly curved cap finial, and somewhat shorter finial on the barrel. From the information I gathered on the net, both girth and length of the two versions seem to be the same. But is it exactly so? In other words, are the bodies and caps on these two versions identical in size, compatible and interchangeable? Perhaps somebody even has both versions of the Centennial line and may verify this empirically? Finally, I would want to kindly ask you for understanding and offer my excuses in advance if the topic has been discussed already. I may have used the wrong terms in my search and missed it... Thanks in advance!

I have received my TWSBI Vac Mini, and thought there maybe people waiting to see/hear about the Vac Mini before they make their decision on their order, so I have done a few photo comparisons of a few TWSBI pens. The biggest thing I was anxious to know about the Vac Mini was if it has swappable nib unit with TWSBI Mini and TWSBI 580 pens. And the answer is, Yes! The nib units are swappable, after you take off the little metal ring. TWSBI Mini has a kind of a one-piece skirt that goes around the nib unit which pops off. TWSBI 580 has a metal ring plus a plastic skirt that also pop off. So just get the nib units to their bare components of nib, feed, and the black plastic nib casing (I call this the nib unit), and the three pens' nib units can be swapped around easily. The actual plastic nib casing material is slightly different in the new Vac Mini in that the material feels matt and not as smooth and shiny as the materials used for the TWSBI Mini and 580 nib casing. The lip of the Vac Mini nib casing is more angular and thicker too. Also compared to how tightly the nib and feed were squeezed into the nib casing in TWSBI Mini, it is much easier to just pull out the nib and feed from the Vac Mini nib casing, but the fit is not as loose as it was with TWSBI Eco. (Note: the first time you take off the nib unit from Vac Mini, you may need to get a grippy material to grab the area of the metal ring close to the nib, and use the unscrewing motion to get it off. It was fairly tightly screwed in.) The nib size (as in the diameter at the base of the feed) is still the same modern #5. Vac Mini has the exact same nib shape and size as TWSBI Mini and TWSBI Eco, but nibs for TWSBI 580 will also fit Vac Mini fine, because they all share the same #5 feed diameter. This is all great news to me as I have quite a few Franken TWSBI nib units that I put together with vintage nibs and TWSBI nib unit, so I am able to swap the nib units around very easily. Size of the pen itself is much more manageable that the Vac 700, it's only slightly longer than TWSBI Mini. I am also very happy to see that the clip is polished and shiny just like the TWSBI Mini and 580 pens. None of the ugly matt whitish metal on the Vac 700. Overall I am loving this little pen. Especially if you have already invested in a few different size nibs in TWSBI, it is great for swapping and playing. Have fun and enjoy!!! TWSBI Vac Mini (Left) and TWSBI Mini (Right) L to R. TWSBI Vac 700, Vac Mini, TWSBI Mini, and TWSBI 580 (Red) Caps of TWSBI Vac Mini (Left) and TWSBI Mini (Right) Section and nib units on TWSBI Vac Mini (Left) and TWSBI Mini (Right) Nib units taken off on TWSBI Vac Mini (Left) and TWSBI Mini (Right) Section and Nib Units disassembled on TWSBI Vac Mini (Left) and TWSBI Mini (Right) Swapped! TWSBI Vac Mini with TWSBI Mini's nib unit installed (Left), and TWSBI Mini with Vac Mini's nib unit installed (Right) TWSBI Vac Mini with Franken nib unit using a vintage Swan 3H gold nib. Ink is Blackstone Barrier Reef Blue in the Vac 20A Ink Bottle (Blue)

Hey everyone, I received my new pen today and am confused by its nib size. The only information I have to go on is the inscription that says, "Iridium point, Germany". Based on this information, do you think it will write like a German fine? Thanks, Rosendust (PS-If needed I can attach a photo)

Hi. In two weeks time I will be sitting seven exams where I will need to write some 5000 words in 2 1/2 hours. I want to buy the Waterman Carene, would you recommend the Fine or Medium? Currently, I've been using the Hemisphere (Fine) for the past four years but I found it scratchy and quite slow, my handwriting can get quite large when writing quickly which makes it a little tiring Thank you

My first TWSBI is supposedly on its way and in anticipation am already thinking of playing around with nibs. The question is, which nibs will fit the ECO? The other TWSBI nibs might fit? Also, what size non-TWSBI nibs will fit? How does one remove the ECO nib: screw off, pull off, or knock out? And if you've switched in some other nib, feel free to post your results.

I've read the few reviews written about the new Wahl-Eversharp Decoband with the superflex nib, but I haven't seen a review by a woman (or someone with small hands). I know this is an oversize pen, and it weighs 45 grams uncapped. I'm interested in hearing from someone who owns the pen and has small hands. How does the pen feel? Can you write for long periods without fatigue? Does it seem just too big? Unfortunately, I'm too far from civilization to attend one of the big pen pen shows (and I wasn't able to go to the Dallas show this year). Thanks. Susan

I'm looking at a Montblanc 14 right now, and it's a Medium nib. I have a Montblanc 145 (modern) in M, and I don't really like the M nib so much. For Montblanc, I think I'm more of a Fine person. Thing is, I was wondering if the Nibs in the past (1968) followed the nib sizes of the present. So if in 1968, the Montblanc M nibs weren't as thick as they are now, I may consider purchasing this Vintage pen. Many thanks to those who reply!

G'day FPN I know the only real answer to this question is 'try them out!' but all the way down here in Australia there seems to be a scarcity of brick & mortar pen shops, so I'd love to hear from you: Is there any rule of thumb for marrying a pen size to a hand size? theres a lot of talk around the forums of large and small hands, but as it's so subjective what size 'large' hands actually are, and obviously the weight distribution of the actual pen in hand plays a huge part in what makes it balanced or not. the Safari I use at the moment is a little back heavy when posted (those pens are really quite long though) so what factors would lead you to decide between an M400, 600, 800 or 1000 apart from visuals or price? heres a picture of my hand for reference, with a pen we all know and love -Kieran

Hi all, I am currently looking at getting either a Pilot Custom Heritage 91 or Custom Heritage 912 in with a SFM nib. The only differences that I can see between them are a slight size difference, price difference and differences in the size of the nib - with the CH91 being a slightly smaller Pilot #5 nib and the CH912 being the larger Pilot #10 nib. Would you say that you will be able to feel a differences between the two nibs as a result of their size, and do you think that it would be worth paying the £50 (~$71) for? Thanks a lot! Merlin.

I am talking about the diameter size of the nib portion that goes into the feed (the opposite end of the nib tip). The nib feed diameter, not tipping size (fine, broad, italic). What is the diameter in mm of a Montblanc 149 and a Montblanc Writer's Edition? I am interested in both of those nib units but I don't know what the writer's edition sizing is. I know 149s are size 9 and I know the writer's edition is smaller, but how much smaller. I want to know what size the writer's edition sized nib feed can fit into and preferably exact diameter of it and also the exact diameter of the 149. (9.1, 9.3, etc.) I have found places that measured the diameter of them from shoulder to shoulder but didn't even post the feed portion size. That is a huge factor in a nib. Thank you all very much.

Some might say that anyone with more than ten fountain pens is a collector. If this is true then I might be that. I buy to use rather than to file away in a case or drawer, but in truth I only have ten or so inked at any one time. I've tried to do a purge and find that all I can manage is to offload what I have decided I will never repair or what I truly despise. On the other hand, having so many has been very useful in being able to narrow down what it is I really like and wondered if it is the same for others in the same boat as me. So, I thought I might outline what I like and enjoy through what ownership (of a rather silly amount of pens) has taught me, in the hope you might add your own musings. I feel I should add a disclaimer before I begin that these are 'my' musings and of course you may disagree very strongly with every last one of them! Jinhao: These taught me you can get very decent writers for very little money. For me they make great holiday pens. I like journal keeping while on holiday and won't be too upset if I mislay them, lose or break them. They also taught me that although I like a bit of weight to my pens, I don't like them to feel like they are made of lead or something you would have a gym workout with. Stipula: This taught me that just every once in a while a style over substance (or practical considerations) manufacturer can every now and again produce something truly great that can be missed by so many others based on past experience of other pens in their range. It also taught me that sometimes a pen can look awkward in a photograph (in terms of use, size, etc), but can be a really comfortable and pleasant pen in reality. Lamy: I now know that boring and ugly can sometimes be pleasant. Montblanc: I have been seduced by the wiles of near perfect balance and huge shiny nibs. It was also my first positive experience of feedback and how something like a nib can be distinctive in terms of 'feel'. Curiouser and curiouser! It also taught me that I love writing with fountain pens so much that I will occasionally spend a stupid amount of money on them. I try not to think about it too much. Waterman: I learnt the hard way that Western medium gold nibs that write like a felt tip are really not my thing. Sailor: Those that live in the land of the free, brave and whatever else seem to enjoy the level of feedback on Sailor's nibs. I find them unremarkable to look at and the nibs sail far too close to scratchy for my taste. The lesson was that feedback can sometimes be a very, very bad thing. Pilot: It is possible to come so, so close to absolute perfection - specifically for me in the 823. Balance, a nice glassy nib, perfect wetness of flow, great filling system, nice appearance. I keep twisting in between my fingers and thinking 'Damn, this is close to perfect'. Pelikan: Simplicity can be very, very beautiful. Visconti: Totally in your face and ridiculously over the top designs can also be beautiful and that springy, bouncy dreamtouch nibs can be a dream to use......when the quality control gets it right. Italix: Sometimes a pen everybody seems to love can turn out to be a Jinhao in disguise. I could go on, but I better leave some room for others to add their own thoughts. Overall though, looking at a whole lot of pens together it has taught me that it might be possible to spend just as much on ink, that experiencing a whole load of different pens from cheap to stupidly expensive is generally a good thing (but not for one's bank balance) and that using fountain pens somehow makes me have a truly deep appreciation for the art and miracle of writing.

Hello! I want to bite the bullet and get my first Pelikan! I really like the look of the Congac M200 Demonstrator, and was thinking of getting this, or maybe the new Amethyst! However, my only concern is that a lot of people say these are small pens. Now when I purchased my Pilot Prera, I didn't expect it to be that small! I can write comfortably with it posted, but I wouldn't write with it unposted. I usually have a tendency to reach out for heftier and/or longer pens over it, such as my Platinum 3776 Century, Lamy Safari or even my Pilot Metropolitan. In this picture, the M400 looks really close in size to the Prera, so I have doubts about buying this pen. Any advice/comparisons would be appreciated! (sorry edit: forgot to post the link!) http://www.ciar-roisin.net/photos/SmallPens-01.jpg Btw, I am a woman, so I don't have very big hands, but I suppose I would like some feedback on how the community considers the "feel" of this pen. Thanks!

I have decided that I want to invest in a Pelikan, but I am going back and forth on which model to go for, specifically between the M800 and M1000. The next pen show I can attend is the DC show, so I'm looking to compare their sizes to pens I own or can get cheaply. I am using a Pilot Custom Heritage 92 currently, which I am finding too small for my liking (too narrow and the section is too close to the paper). I am a college student, so I don't want a pen that's so large it's uncomfortable to use for a long period of time. The M800 seems similar in size to an Ahab or a Jinhao x750, both of which fit my ape hands well. Is this a reasonable assumption? Unfortunately, I don't know of any cheap pens that match the size of the M1000 (except possibly the Jinhao 159). Anything I can look into here? Thank you!

Hey there! I bought a Montblanc 149 from an auction and finally got it today! Really happy about it, since my daily writer to this day has been a Lamy Nexx or Safari. I got told it's a M size nib, but it is really big compared to the M nib I had on the Lamys. I really like it, but I'm just not sure if it really is a M. So, that brings me to my question: http://imgur.com/TK59KRP top: http://imgur.com/EWczmCe bottom: http://imgur.com/Yp3Rlpv side: http://imgur.com/zHvEPVg I've also encountered a little problem, but probably it's because the pen only got used once and isn't "written in" yet: it has some hard starts depending on how I hold it and - if I use it on rather "slippery" paper - sometimes doesn't lie down ink at all. However, once it writes there are no skips, even if I make very long lines across the paper. It's always just the start. Is this because it's a new pen? Or because of my ink? I use the Iroshizuku kon-peki, had the same "problem" with the iroshizuku yama-budo, however. Thanks for your help in advance! Regards, Sehn

I am really attracted to http://www.franklin-christoph.com/model-33-abditus.html. I keep postponing buying one because of (the cost and) my concern with it that the pen itself may be a bit thin. As I cannot try and hold one in real life, I would appreciate thoughts and experiences from Model 33 owners. I own different pens and particularly like my Pilot VP's, Pelikan m205, Lamy 2000 and TWSBI 540, just to give you an idea of the diverse type and sizes that I like. Thanks!

I see that there are two sizes - medium/'standard' and large/full-size, ignoring the "realo" piston filler model. I am not familiar with these sizes, but am familiar with the Sapporo standard (or Pro-Gear slim, distinct from Sapporo mini) and Pro-Gear standard sizes. My question is what is roughly the size of the 1911 medium/standard model when compared the Pro-Gear standard? Are these two similarly sized pens? Thanks, and I apologise if this has been answered in the past.

I am a bit confused. Are these the same size cartridges or is it they messed up with words? - One says "International Size" AND athe other one only says "Standard". No International anywhere... One is G302BK, the other G306BK I would very much appreciate information so I can stock on cartridges until I get a fine fountain pen that I can use with a converter. Is there a place where the length of the different sizes of cartridges is specified? I have seen lots of videos on how to use cartridges and converters, but I cannot find a single video where I could see someone measuring cartridges or explain the differences. I am solely interested on the "standard sizes", not proprietary cartidges. Once I can understand the sizes I can place an order. Thank you. I know I will have some answers. Thanks in advance!

Hi, I'm thinking of buying a Sailor Procolor but I'm still not sure about the nib size. I have a Lamy steel EF, a TWSBI EF and a Pilot 78G in M. Ideally something close to the Lamy EF would be nice. The TWSBI is a bit too fine for my taste. Pilot 78G in M is the absolute upper limit in what I would be comfortable in using (I mostly use my pens for Maths). Basically, I think that the Lamy EF is pretty much perfect. I've had a look at the nib nook but it's very difficult to judge based off on that. A Lamy 2000 that I ordered in EF turned out to be much finer than I had thought it would be judging by the nib nook and I had to send the pen back. I would love to hear your opinions on this.

Hi All, An appeal please for those who own either (or both) the oversize or the midi Homo Sapiens. I can't seem to find the dimensions of the midi listed anywhere online, reviews, blogs, retailers, ect. I'd like to compare the two before deciding what to go for. The best I can find is likening the oversize to the m800 / Al-star and the midi to an M600. (I'm not too concerned about filling systems between the oversize and piston only steel midi.) Any comparison of nib widths to common pens (Pelikan / Sailor / Lamy / MB ect.) would also be fantastic. Photos would be ideal but any measurement information would be good. Thanks, Ed

Do any of you guys have the size and weight of this pen, the Omas Arte Italiana Milord. I have been searching everywhere but with no result, or maybe missed it. And how does the nib perform. http://www.lacouronneducomte.nl/webstore/main/images/omas_ai_fp_milord_all.jpg