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I just purchased a Shaeffer Snorkel two pen desk set from eBay. Both pens work well, but one of the trumpets will spin where the stem attaches to the actual trumpet, so when screwing or unscrewing the pen it will at times spin the trumpet rather than the pen. Is there anything short of replacing the trumpet I can do to rectify this? Also, the base has an unengraved plate that I would like to get engraved, but the local places I've tried will only engrave their own material. How difficult would it be to remove the plate without damage to the base (aside from surface discoloration that would be covered by a replacement plate)? I've included a photo for reference. NOTE: I thought I told it to post in the Repair section, but my internet connection here is through a crazy proxy system that does weird things sometimes. If a Mod could move it as appropriate, I'd appreciate it.

"This is a requested writing sample. I'm using a Shaeffer fountain pen that Amber Lea Davis gave me. She asked that I inflict, er, I mean show off my penmanship to all of you with this fountain pen. "The ink is all old school Shaeffer. It's a mixture of Shaeffer Jet Black from a cartridge that was totally dried out and some Shaeffer Red ink from a bottle. I poked a hole in the cartridge and let flow the distilled water. After I'd written about half of the 1½ mL cartridge out I added some Canadian Sheaffer Red ink. I did not measure any of the components so I couldn't reproduce this ink, but I like it. It's sort of reminiscent of Noodler's Red/Black ink. "Well, I hope that my handwriting hasn't put any of you off your food. I'll type up a copy of this deathless prosody in case anyone wants to actually read it. "Ink Stained Wretch" Here are two views of the pen that I wrote the above with. It may be a Shaeffer Prelude. We're not sure. And I want to add a big thanks to Amber Lea Davis for giving me this fountain pen. .

I found replacement caps for my favorite 4 oz Schaeffer Skrip ink bottles! Unfortunately, they came in a pack of sixty. I now have enough for several lifetimes. If anyone needs caps to replace the rusty metal one on your vintage 4 oz Skrip bottle, just let me know, I want to share.

I have a Shaeffer Imperial AS9G whose gold cap is extensively cracked. Does anyone have an idea about what could I do to either fix it (it does not seem possible to me, but who knows…?) or to get a replacement?

I would like to find a good Prussian Blue, in my view, a slightly grey-turquoise-blue. Having recently bought a bottle of Shaeffer Scrip Peacock Blue, mainly for the cool bottle, I found the ink watery. Peacock Blue, Do you have any suggestions for mixing this Peacock Blue with black or blue and black so as to get a more substantial color? So far my only mix that worked from a color standpoint has been Pilot Black from an ink cartridge with deArtemis Mint Turquoise. This is somewhat gummy after some weeks, but is a beautiful dark bliue-green.

Recently I managed to acquire 5 beautiful Shaeffer pens. With an original Box that would have held 5 slim line cartridge pen An unused pair of Targa 1009 A used Targa 1009 A pair of slim line pens All absolutely superb condition

Hello, I am new to the forum and would like to engage with members who collect: Montblanc, Shaeffer, Parker, Aurora, and Conklin. I have specific questions about pens in my collection and would appreciate any assistance. v/r Haznavy

Sheaffer Taranis Diamond Dust Blue Chrome Inspired from the celtic god of thunder. This elegant writing instrument is a must have product for all pen lovers. http://www.penboutique.com/p-14985-sheaffer-taranis-diamond-dust-blue-chrome-trim-fountain-pen-medium-nib.aspx

Hi everyone, posting my first ink review, I didn't mean to post it at all, made it for my personal reference but realized it could help someone decide (as numerous reviews have helped me), so here it is. I am sure there is room for improvement so feel free to point out what to adjust in the next one. I've got close to 40 inks so I will be posting more as I go through them again. These of course are only my personal findings and may not be as accurate as someone's who's been reviewing ink for a long time. I've only gotten into inks recently even though I've been using fountain pens for years. This review is on Radece Papir Italia, 80g. The best office paper I've found so far in this part of the world. Excellent for fountain pen inks, very resistant and overall performs very, very well. I've tried quite a number of them by now. I want to stay away from reviewing on Clairfontain or Rhodia simply because I don't use them daily and the ink really won't show its faults as much. Enjoy! - Daniel

Found some pens at a local "antique" shop today. Not the greatest deal, but decent to my inexperienced eye. Four fountain pens: Wearever lever filler Wearever cartridge pen Eberhard Faber lever filler Shaeffer cartridge pen (in taupe, much bigger than a school pen) Three ballpoints/mechanical pens: Shaeffer mechanical pencil (working), local Walton business name on it (business long gone) Bell Telephone mechanical pencil Old ballpoint with metal refill, with local business advertising on it (business long gone). The last was the most expensive at $5. Total $20. I guess because I uploaded nice pictures of my Edison Beaumont, I'm not allowed to upload more pictures directly into the post. So here are the links. https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/uploads/imgs/fpn_1401048787__img_2146.jpg https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/uploads/imgs/fpn_1401048824__img_2148.jpg

Hello Shaeffer lovers and experts. A local estate auction is coming up next weekend and it has a couple good pens. One of them is claimed to be a Shaeffer fountain pen. Unfortunately this auctioneer only puts up one photo which works fine for a table. So no pic of the nib or what the filling mechanism could be. I'll probably go to the auction to see what the pen looks like in person. They have online bidding, so my guess is someone online will bid up the price and get it (regardless of what it really is). I don't know anything about Shaeffer's so any guesses as to model. Clearly it was meant to be a fancy pen.

I just recently got a Sheaffer Vac Fill from an antique mall today. I was able to gently work the piston out and get a look at the ring inside with the use of a flashlight. The rod goes out with some resistance and in with much less. I haven't tried to fill it or flush it because, go forbid, it deteriorates even more. The nib is dirty but aligned and seems like it would work. My main question is about the filler system. I don't know the exact condition of the rings or the packing on the end and so I'm afraid to flush it to see if it would be smoother. I am unable to fully push the rod in because the pen starts making this squeaking/scratching sound when I try to screw it in to the base of the pen so I just have it sitting slightly out. When I looked at it with the flashlight, it looked like there was dried ink lightly coating the inside of the barrel. So, on to my main question. Should I send it to get repaired or try to flush it with water and see if that works? I am willing to spend the money to get it repaired if it really needs it but I don't want to, or wait 4 months, if I can use it now. If you suggest I get it repaired, can you give me some places that are recommended for Sheaffer repairs ( I know they one of the most difficult)? I will post pictures if wanted but otherwise please let me know your opinion. Thank you!

Hi all - I recently got a batch of pens on the Bay, and it included the attached mystery (to me) Sheaffer. It's made of aluminum (non-ferrous metal, anyway). The clip is brass-colored, spring-loaded, with an angular S logo. It is otherwise marked Sheaffer---Made In U.S.A. at the base of the cap. The most interesting aspect is the nib - it seems to be designed to allow the user to write in two orientations. The nib itself is a flat piece of metal, seated inside a rounded cone of black plastic(?). It is quite fine. One side of the nib assembly has a gold arrow head shape on it, rather like the original Star Trek logo. The other side is marked F and has what looks like a breather hole (or torpedo tube). Thanks very much! Edited due to factual error.

Hey all, I have a Sheaffer tip-dip touchdown fill pen (cadet i think) that i found at an antique store and the cap threads don't seem to engage. They appear to be intact on both the pen and the cap. I know its not a fancy pen or anything, but I like how it writes (and that the internals are intact) so if anyone has any tips to make the cap stay on I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks

Hi, I'm Bryan from NH. I grew up in England and my school would not allow us to use ballpoints becuse they affected the character of one's handwriting.I've been a regular FP user for about 55 years. I still have two Shaeffer's I recieved as gifts for my barmitzvah, and that was 50 years ago! I didn't know any one actually collected fountain pens until a few weeks ago when I found my touchdown wouldn't fill. I went on line and discoverd this network which has led me to bid on a number of pens on Ebay. (I now have a bunch of Wearevers for practice repair) I bought a touchdown repair kit and that pen is now working again. My collection, if you can call it that, includes Lamy Safari, Rotring Core, 2 Shaeffers, Esterbrook, Montblanc Classic (what a leaker!), several Wearever bits and pieces, 2 osmiroids, 2 Serwex, a Hero 616 (I love cheap pens!). I just picked up a Jinhao X750, its a heavy bugger! I like broad nibs, especially stub italics. I'd love to get my hands on a Burnham, It is the pen I used all through school. I'm looking forward to the New England Pen show.