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Showing results for tags 'repair'.
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I'm not putting this in the repair forum because I am no expert at repair, and wouldn't want anyone to take my advice. Just recording something I did. I have a Waltham Combo pen/pencil that I got for very little some years ago. This is one of those vintage items with a lever filler fountain pen on one end, and a twist operated mechanical pencil on the other. I have several other of these combos by other makers, mostly Wearevers, but one Remington, and one Arnold. The Waltham has a rather pretty vintage celluloid pattern, but unfortunately had two large cracks forming in the barrel. It was not broken all the way through, but you could see it coming apart when twisting the pen, for example when unscrewing the cap. Although it was not worth paying a professional to try to mend this, I've been meaning to have a go at it myself for some time. I decided not to worry about making the repair invisible, just wanted to see if I could get a functional pen. I had a couple of tries at fixing this with JB Weld epoxy, but absolutely could not get it to set. Must have been user error of some kind, although I was following the instructions as closely as I could. Maybe I got the epoxy mix wrong, maybe I didn't clamp it properly, don't know. But I couldn't make it work. So I tried Krazy Glue, and that worked. It's holding quite well. I cleaned off some some residual epoxy on the exterior with an emory board. As I said, I'm no expert at repair, but it doesn't look bad (to me). Put in a new sac. Filled the fountain pen with a cheap ink, Hero Blue-Black, and put a darker lead in the pencil than the one that was in there. Didn't really have any great hopes for it as a writing instrument. Waltham was a third tier brand, after all. The nib said 14k gold plated, but all the gold plating is gone, which didn't say much for the original quality. Surprisingly, though, it is very nice to write with, very smooth, and a nice wet writer. It's not something I'd carry around with me, but I think I may have found a new desk pen.
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I have a destroyed clip on a Pilot Elite Sterling Silver Crosshatch that I'd like to remove and swap out from the cap. Has anyone successfully done that and can share how to remove and replace? I don't see from the inside of the cap any sign of a mechanism to release it and I have no clue how to disengage a clip from the cap. What tools are helpful? I've never done it before. I also have a different style clip on another Elite (3rd photo), that is loose which I'd like to tighten.
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Hi everyone, I hope everyone is having great holidays. I am french speaking person so I hope my english will be up to the task of explaining the whole story. We were cleaning the house at my family-in-law's and I found a fountain pen in a box with tens of your everyday plastic pens (bic and no-brand). Among the fountain pens, I found one which caught my eyes. After a couple of hours of research, I identified it for a Parker 35 Silver plated with guirlande patterns. My father in law seems to remember that this pen belonged to his mother and offered it to me. I like pens (I own a Namiki myself) and this Parker 35 looks great and feels great in my hand, I'd be glad to use it. The problem is the nib which is labeled "Parker 750" at the front and "3" at the back. I tried with a new ink cartrigde and it is scratching the paper so hard, it's impossible to write. Do you know if this kind of nib is easily straightened / repaired ? Is it possible to replace the nib ? I think of it as a last resort... Do you know if this pen can be used with a converter ? It was stored with a parker long ink cartridge but I would prefer a converter if compatible. Has anyone some tips to clean / polish the silver plating without damaging it ? Thanks for reading and happy holidays !
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I have a wonderful sterling silver Sheaffer touchdown. It is missing the sac protector and it appears the screw holding the pump on to the end cap seems to be degraded to nothing. It's still attached but I can't see the screwhead any longer. Just shiny metal. I had though maybe the sac protector was shoved right up there however I would expect to see the hole at the end down there. There also is a hole in the pump from corrosion. (Picture attached) I think what I'll have to do is cut the metal pump sleeve to get it out since it will have to be replaced. (Once that hole comes past the internal seal itn would lose the vacuum.) Then once it is out I'll cut the pump close to the screw head and make a slot in it to back the screw out. I will then need to get a screw, pump sleeve, sac protector and a touchdown sack an seal kit to put it all back together. Does this plan sound right or is there some other advice that I should follow? Its a pen well worth saving
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I have a Parker 105 and it's clogged up tight. I have had it in rapido-eze for a bit but no dice. I feel like something is in the converter end that shouldn't be. Is it possible somebody has one that they can take a picture of where the converter goes in so I can compare it to what I'm looking at. I had thought it took a regular Parker converter but mine looks different. I'd appreciate any help. Thanks I've attached a picture of what I'm looking at The cartridge doesn't seat well not do I see anything that would pierce it. I'm wondering If it used a different ink cartridge or?
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Dear Forum, I hope this finds you well. I have bought a Montblanc 320P With a original Steel-Goldplated nib , wich I want to replace….but there is a problem… I can’t finde replacement nibs ? Or almost none ? So this makes me question, where can I buy replacement nibs ? (I live in Germany, so most us sellers don’t sell to me ) I have wondered , if I could use nibs from other pens , like the Montblanc Carrera or from another brand …but here I need your help. i know somebody here for sure knows something about this problem or can help me… ( I sorry , but sadly I am not a native speaker, if there are any questions, pls ask and I am going to answer them , I really need help )
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I have seven Sailor pens. I love using them. I have three with steel nibs: a fude ProFit Junior +10 a MF 1911 Compass. a gold plated F Sailor Shikiori Tsukuyo no Minamo Shimoyo I have three with a 14K gold nib: a black lacquer F Sailor ProFit. a MF Sailor Shikiori Fairy Tale Orihime (Vega) a black lacquer M Sailor Pro Gear Slim I also have a 21K gold nib model the EF Wicked Witch of the West 1911L I’ve written nine journals with them since last year alone, so I use them a lot. The problem is with the 14K black Sailor ProFit model. No matter how much I use pen flush or break the nib in through use, it gouges and scrapes the paper surface. It picks up paper fibers and becomes a brush all the time. I've been told that Sailor gold nib pens write “buttery”, but they are patterned after dip pens, so they make a scritchy sound on paper. Since I do art with dip pens, I love this tactile feedback. My 21K EF Witch writes smoothly as does my gold plated F Shimoyo. They’re a joy to write with, but not the ProFit. It even writes thinner than the EF. What can I do to fix this on my end? Is this a common difference between 14K nibs and 21K ones? How do I send this in to Sailor to get the nib repaired or replaced? Thanks for your friendly suggestions.
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Polishing products and their compatibility with pen materials
The Honey Batcher posted a topic in Fountain & Dip Pens - First Stop
Hi Everyone Being new in the world of fountain pens and restoration of them, I am not sure how to approach polishing. I know some are in favor of polishing others are not. If you decided to polish what products are best for which material? · Harden rubber · Casein · Bakelite · Celluloid · Thermoplastics · Metal parts · … Assuming that you always start with a less critical area to see how things turn out in the specific case. What products do you recommend for the different materials? I am not looking for long detailed answers. More something simple and short like below. · Harden rubber: XXX, YYY and ZZZ · Casein: XXX and never ZZZ · Bakelite: BBB and YYY · Celluloid: No idea · Thermoplastics: XXX · Metal parts: AAA Let me know if a post about this already exists. I am looking forward to read your answers. Thanks.- 2 replies
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Hello! I have this Pelikan Toledo, presumably from the 80s. as you can see from the pictures attached, the piston mechanism is partially disassembled. When I assemble it, the back knob doesn’t contract fully. If am I right, the only way to get it right is remove the thread black part attached to the barrel, then to assemble the piston mechanism outside the barrel (considering get the fully contactin of the back knob) and then insert the fully assembled mechanism into the barrel. Is that correct? If yes… what the right way to do it? Are that thread part friction fitted into the barrel or thread into it? Left or right thread? Should I apply dry heat and or DW40? if it is friction fit… should I apply pressure from the section extreme using a wood bar o apply pull tracción from the back thread part? Piston contracted or extended? thanks a lot!!!
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Hopefully this will be of interest for those wanting to "repair" by replacement the unrepairable components of vintage pens. This Conway Stewart from around 1950 has cross-linked changes to the polymer causing severe distortions and embritlement (see photograph). The lever-fill mechanism was completely unusable depite all the parts still being inside the barrel. I have had a basic level 3D printer for a couple of moths now and I have been impressed with the fine details that can be generated when the slower speeds and layer heights are used rather than the standard settings. This encouraged me to measure the complicated elements and print test parts to see if the cap threads and the jewel threads would be sufficiently accurate to work. The cap has a 4-start thread that secures it to the barrel with a simple twist. This has a lead of 2.5 mm per turn and, with 4-starts, the effective pitch is 2.5/4 = 0.625 mm. I then used the standard thread forms for ISO metric or Unified to prepare small test parts 1/2" or 12 mm long. The first attempt was far too tight so I kept the same thread form but put the 4 helical cuts deeper into the cap to give a greater than standard clearance. It only took this second test part to get a free running thread that was still very secure when tight. The barrel needs to hold a "J" shaped spring for the filler and has a fine groove to retain a 2-coil helical spring that positions the gold-plated lever in its socket. I printed the barrel first and persuaded the original springs to seat correctly in the new part. This let me fit an ink-sac and get writing. The cap required the female thread to be printed in the same way and had a simple single thread for the cap jewel. It seemed to be close to the dimensions for M4 x0.7p but again required the hole to have a more generous clearance than the metal standard. This cap jewel tightened well using some silicone gloves for grip and holds the gold-plated clip securely. The surface finish shows a texture which is a bit like a silky fabric. I decided to leave this texture rather than trying to sand smooth and polish to a finish. I will need to experiment with the best method to add a decorative gold-plated capring and possibly a printed securing band rather than a groove. The project was worthwhile, if only for the learning and process familiarisation.
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- 3d-model
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From the album: Alex's images
Part of this post: https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/375374-parker-65-cap-clutch-too-tight-fyi/
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From the album: Alex's images
Part of this post: https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/375374-parker-65-cap-clutch-too-tight-fyi/
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From the album: Alex's images
Part of this post: https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/375374-parker-65-cap-clutch-too-tight-fyi/
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I have a Kaweco Elite with tool holes for a wrench for nib removal. I haven't had occasion to need this type of tool yet so I don't have any to try. Is anyone familiar with which wrench may fit. I know there are a few available out there for other pens
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I have a desk pen with a badly aligned nib and feed. It has a flat nib under that good. Is there any good way to do this externally or will I need to remove the sac and knock it out? The pen writes well but the alignment makes it all sorts of tricky as the pen needs to be rolled slightly from center. My brain hurts to use it! Pictures say a lot I'd appreciate any advice
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Any tips on removing this nib to swap it to this gold nib? I'm starting with dry heat, however, perhaps there is a better way!
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Hello everyone! I recently acquired my first vintage fountain pen from a family friend. After some research, I found it was a Parker Challenger Deluxe and needed a new sac. I've managed to replace the sac, however upon reinserting the nib section into the barrel, I found it did not fit in all the way. The cap can still screw on, and the filling mechanism seems to be working fine (using water to test!), however I cannot get the section to go down all the way. It seems very stuck, and even after heating did not budge upwards or downwards. Any advice on how to get it unstuck would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance!
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I have a Parker Vacumatic from 1944. The cap jewel is metal (stainless maybe) The clip is lose but I can't get the jewel to come out. Is it possible this isn't the original cap jewel? I see references to a parker 51 with a stainless cap jewel. Is this jewel supposed to be black and perhaps that's why it's so difficult to get out? I have seeped some of the Pensbury PENatrate potion in the space between the clip and the jewel and will let that seep for a bit. Then Ill retry some heat and see if it helps.
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I've been at a few vacumatics lately. Some have been as easy as can be. I have this one however that has been quite the battle. I can not for the life of me get the nib section to thread out. In fact I gave up and soaked the back end in naptha so I could get the pump out which was its own battle. I did get it out and cleaned up when what happens next? I since out the barrel and in doing so the breather tube has decided to drop out. Or it's broken off but I think it's just slid out. Next step is to tap out the nib and feed and get that back together. If it isn't broken off then I suspect that's my only choice. Second question though. In the picture of the pump (which is a straightline as I understand it) I think that the flat price is intended to be right through to the other side so it shows on both sides. Can anyone correct me on that? I'll be pleased once I have this one back together and working. Thanks everyone for your help on this and the other questions I have had on these vacumatics In then pictures below you won't see the breather. It's soaking in pen flush at the moment
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Well I struggled for a while with this. I tried all the advice I could find here. Heat cycles Took out the old sac Soaked over night Soaked overnight with pen cleaner Soaked over night with rapido-eze Naptha on the threads Patience patience patience I also use The Inky Nib collet extractor. Alas the pump finally broke unfortunately. I don't think it was my fault on the end but who knows. More experience will help as I try and restore others. Is this a common problem? I do knok that it is possible to drill it out however I think that's above my comfort level at the moment. Any advice? I have attached a picture of the result
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Vintage Norma 4 colour mechanical pencil
MartinTenbones posted a topic in It Writes, But It Is Not A Fountain Pen ....
I have a Norma 4 colour mechanical pencil however it seems that the blue is broken and won't slide up or down. I suspect the pencil rotates as well to extend lead but it seems jammed. Has anyone taken one apart before? Thanks for any help and direction -
Well this is a new one for me. I've cleaned and repaired countless pens now. I had a Waterman Stalwart with a very stubborn section I needed to remove to change the sac. I was doing what I normally do. Soak, heat, soak, and also some ultrasonic cleaning to get the section out. I have been trying for days off and on. This morning I put the pen in the ultrasonic and when I took it out it was very hot. Just the pen not the water. It blistered the pen on the opposite side from the lever. This area is above the waterline as I was only just above the nib section with water. I have no explanation as to why. All the other times I had cycled it it hadn't heated up. Any thoughts?
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Hello, I don't know if anyone have this problem with SCRIBO piston, I got mine only roughly 4-5 months, however the piston feel a bit sluggish and not as smooth as I wanted to be; I want lubricate the piston but I'm not sure if I should try and with what tool. If anyone had tried, how did you do it and with what tool?
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I've got a Meisterstuck 642 with a broken cork seal on my restoration table. I saw somewhere that people have replaced these seals with silicone o-rings. Any idea what size seals to use for this or where one can find appropriate cork replacement seals? For reference the diameter of the piston looks like its about 5mm and the nut that holds it is about 8.5 mm so I would expect the seal to be about 9mm. All advice is welcomed.