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Hi lovely people, this is a little update about my newly purchased Pelikan 120 fountain pen. A few days ago, I have made this post about the fountain pen I purchased. The pen didn't came with packaging. Original owner didn't have one. Interestingly enough, the other day I bumped into an advert, about a guy who was selling this vintage pelikan 120 packaging, but without a papers inside. The best part is - nib of my fountain pen has " F " insignia, same as on the box that was for sale ! So I purchased it. Please take a look, and tell me if this could be the genuine packaging for Pelikan 120 vintage fountain pen? Thank you in advance ! Sinsirely yours - Tinpanalleybluesman.

Hi All! I am a student who wrote with the same FP for many years. However, I wanted something new, so I decided to trade pens so that I could afford it and switch pens more often. I recently bought two Montblancs 144s. The price was good, but I have a few questions regarding the age, nib size and serial number. 1. How can I determen how old my pen is, even if there is no serial number. 2. I want to clean the pen a bit better, but I am not sure how to remove the nib. There is also not a good Youtube video that shows me that. Any ideas? 3. My pen has no serial number. I don't directly suspect the pen to be fake, but I am also not sure what the reason could be and if it's normal. Attached some pics for reference and age determination. Thank you all very much for your help in advance!

Hi lovely people, Yesterday I have purchased a fountain pen, about which the seller didn't know to tell me much about. The only thing he knew was that supposedly was owned by his dad. I have asked him if he knows what was the production year, he said that he doesn't know, but that he things it's a "newer date". All over this pen is written ' Pelikan 120 '. I am not sure if it's actually Pelikan 120 or Pelikan M120 ( production year 2016 ), because it looks in a pretty good condition for a pen that would be produced back in 1955-1965 or so. There is no number at the bottom part of the barrel ( which some of them had ). It's 125mm long ( like Pelikan 120 should be, unlike Pelikan m120 which is 130 mm long in total ). This probably is not Pelikan 120 M&K ( 1973-1977 ) because it's shorter in total lenght, plus M&K have some different features. So if anyone have a clue if this could be the genuine Pelikan 120, or what should I look for - give me some suggestions please. ( I still haven't even tried if it's "working" or not ... ) Thank you in advance ! Best regards - Tinpanalleybluesman.

I’m relatively new to fountain pens, so my budget isn’t that big yet. That being said, I have bought a Waterman Allure, Lamy Safari and Wordsworth and Black Primori. They’re all very nice to use, smooth ink flow, not much scratch etc., but I’m looking to expand my collection. The pens I’m considering right now are the Parker Jotter, Vector and Urban, as they’re all quite cheap and in my price range. What are your opinions on these pens? Which one should I get? (For reference, my budget is around $50 AUD)

I’ve been eyeing this pen lately, and from what I’ve heard it has a good 14k nib. However, it’s made of metal (aluminum) and I was wondering if it would damage the nib if I try to cap it. Will it scratch/damage the nib?

So I just have a little question.. Why don’t people just change the size of their handwriting to accommodate the nib size? I hear so many people say some things like, ”I would love this pen, but it has a medium nib and it makes my handwriting look blobby.” Or, “I just dislike extra-fine nibs so much, they put down too fine a line for my handwriting.” And when I hear this I just wonder, “Well why don’t you write a little bit bigger or smaller?” I am not talking about people complaining about extra-fine nibs being too toothy or broad nibs being too smooth, but the specific things about people’s upset on how it makes their handwriting look blobby or shaky or whatever else. It just seems like people have their handwriting size set in stone, when I know my handwriting personally gets larger or smaller depending on whether I am using a broad or fine nib. Thank you all for your responses, William

Hi, I just received a vintage Rotring Renaissance. I need to take it apart for cleaning. At first I thought the nib section will just screw out like the Pelikan nib. But it feels really tight and I don't dare to apply more force. Does anybody know about this pen? Am I supposed to screw the nib or just pull it out? I did some research on Youtube but didn't find any video of any help.

Hi, I have a damaged/non-working Pilot Elite pocket pen of the 80's. It has a problem with seating the ink cartridge/converter - the converter goes in much too deep and does not become seated (rattles around, falls out if pen is inverted, etc). Can this be repaired? I suspect I'd need to remove the threaded metal part of the body and pull the internal assembly out, but is this (a) reasonably possible, (b) worthwhile and (c) are spare parts to be had anywhere? Many thanks! Marc

Hello everyone. I am in need of $ at the moment to pay rent and I am in the position to get rid of two larger and one smaller (B5 and A5) journals that I purchased from paperforfountainpens.com back when he sold them a few years ago, a Nanami journal or 2, all brand new, some used ink and a couple used Pilot Metropolitans. Anyway, I think there used to be a classified sub-forum here, but I cant find it anymore. If anyone can point me in the right direction where I might be able to sell these (other than the obvious, like eBay), please let me know. It would be a huge help and I would greatly, greatly appreciate it. Thank you bunches. 😃

Hello all! I am new here, this is my first post. I know there's an "Introductions" section, but I have an ink-related question so I figured I'd keep things neat and contained and just start here, if that's all right with you. (I'll move to Intros if the mods prefer ofc) A short introduction: I'm 22 y/o, from the Netherlands, just finished my bachelor's and currently doing an internship. As such, I have very little money to spend - hence my username! I've always loved fountain pens but for a long time the fountain pen enthusiast world seemed too daunting. Turns out there's nothing daunting to it I own only cheap pens, of course: LAMY Vista (B and EF, the latter being my daily driver), Platinum Carbon Black Desk pen EF, and a clear Pilot Kaküno EF. Can you tell I have a thing for small nibs? Now, my topic: 3 months ago, I ordered some Noodler's Black Eel and Heart of Darkness from an online store in Europe, among some other products. (I don't want to get so specific that someone might guess which store it is.) The other products I received just fine, but they told me the Noodler's inks weren't in stock. I had expected they'd put that on the site before I paid, but alright, they'd deliver it once they had it - they told me 3 weeks tops. After 4 weeks, I contacted them and they told me it was at customs. So I waited. After another 6 weeks I contacted customs myself and found out that the store lied (probably to buy some time): customs in the Netherlands don't hold products like that. I contacted the store again and they apologized profusely, offered to send me an alternative product of my choosing and told me what I already knew: it's one guy making all the inks. They also told me he doesn't have either BE or HoD on hand, he still has to make it. My question: does this story seem at all reasonable/believable to you, based on your experience with Noodler's? Like I said, I know it's one guy making everything by hand. I don't want to push anyone, least of all him, because I know he must have a lot of customers. But I find it hard to believe he doesn't have an ink as common as Heart of Darkness at all in a period of over 12 weeks, especially not for a relatively large European store. What do you guys think? Should I try ordering somewhere else, or just buy another ink (which one?) and expect the HoD somewhere next year? Did something happen to Nathan or is he otherwise engaged? Does this happen more regularly with Noodler's and should I just get used to it? It may sound dumb but I really need these inks. The Black Eel was supposed to be a b'day present for my mother which I bought well on time, but her b'day is less than 5 weeks away now. My daily driver, Vista EF, was inked up with Platinum Carbon Black before and that ink is just disastrous in a Leuchtturm1917 A5 lined journal (feathering, spreading, bleeding), which I used for daily journaling. So I just cleaned out my Vista and waited for HoD, from what I heard a very well-behaved ink. I also intended to start a Bullet Journal in my regular-sized LT1917 which is doable with Platinum, but because of the spread, my Kaküno EF is effectively an F/M, which is too large for the neat writing I'm looking for on a 5x5 grid. Initially I figured I'd wait because it won't take long, and now I wait because I've waited all this time already dangit, but I really miss my (bullet) journaling as a way to improve my mental health. (All this because of some ink, I know, I know, I just underestimated how much I need the journaling). If you'd like to recommend another ink: I'm looking for something blacker than black, well-behaved with low spread, and very preferably something that doesn't budge once dry. (Liquid-y accidents happen in this household and I don't want to lose anything. I also just like the feeling it gives... Everything I put on paper is there to stay. I love that.) I might ask the store for some of Noodler's Black - if they have it... Thank you if you came this far!

So I am looking into purchasing a Platinum 3776 Celluloid at some point and noticed some things that I have a few questions about, so, here they are: 1.) Why are some models so much more expensive than others? Like there is one over $1,000 and there is another for $382. Why? 2.) Are they real celluloid or cellulose acateate? 3.) Is PenSachi a “legit” retailer? It is a lot less expensive like most Japanese retailers, and I was wondering if any of you in the US have had experience with this retailer, I would appreciate if you valued tell your experiences. 4.) Do any of you have this pen? Do you like it? Thank you all in advance for your responses! I really appreciate it. W. H. Major

Hello! I've had a Pilot Decimo for probably just around a year now. It's got a F nib, and I have a CON-50 converter installed. I've always used the same ink in it (I believe it's Diamine's Majestic Purple). I've never had any problems with it either, it's worked perfectly! Then, a few months ago (1-2) months, the ink flow just became terrible. It skips, sometimes completely stops, and is terrible to right with. I have to trace my letters five time before you can actually see the entire letter with no skips. I've cleaned out the pen fully (I used just water, I've never used any soap or anything with my pens) and it still doesn't work right. I don't know why it's not working. I really hope I haven't broken it, and I just want my favorite pen to be back to its former glory. The pen used to work so well, does anyone know why it might not be writing correctly? Thank you so much, and dear gosh I hope I put this in the right place.

What are the good triangular pens on the market at the moment? I have a friend asking for recommendations but I realized that I don't know many off of the top of my head other than the Lamy Safari and the TWSBI Eco-T, but she is looking for something more vintage. What would you recommend for a student-level budget? And what are good triangular gripped pens broadly speaking? Thank you!

Hello, Does anyone here own a Pelikan M30 (or variants, i.e. MK10,M25, etc.)? Im planning to buy one (or a Montblanc 14, depending on price and availability) and have a few questions. How well does it hold up to EDCing? What are the dimensions? Does then pen have any special mainatncence needs? Are Pelikan EF nibs very scratchy and are they true <0.5mm EFs? How does it compare to a Montblanc 14 (or 24,74,12, etc.)? What would be a good base price for a NOS M30 in EF? Thanks.

Hey everybody, until last year I mainly watched Youtube-videos, sometimes red reviews online and bought way to many TWSBIs but now I finally signed up here! I have a question on where to post certain stuff on this forum: I recently created a website and I'd be really interested in hearing some feedback! I'm just not sure where to i'm supposed to post. (If this is important, it's basically a fountain pen search that doesn't sell anything but just links to stores. The URL is www.fpfinder.com) Thank you in advance! Cipher

Hello. Passed a newsagent a few weeks ago with Mars Lumographs on sale and bought it. The new formula is very different. Its more like normal graphite than the old one, which was similar to a compressed charcoal. Any thoughts?

Hey everyone! So I've been hunting for a new fountain pen for the last while and was recommended to look into the Franklin-Christoph offerings. One in particular caught my eye, the Model 40 Panther. On Franklin-Christoph's website it says they come out infrequently, I was hoping to acquire one due to how beautiful it looks but they are not in stock. Are they on a rotating schedule or do they only come out at random? Thanks!

Hey Everyone! My best friend was the one that got my into fountain pens the first place and his birthday is in 3 months and I want to get him something special. I like giving gifts that are personal and something that people can use all the time. Any recommendations? What would you want in gift that speaks to your personality?

I've been collecting fountain pens for a while now, but my oldest pen is just a Parker 95 (manufactured in 1988, so just shy of 30 years old). I'm currently looking to vastly increase that number in hopes of owning a piece of early fountain pen history. The two pens I'm currently looking at are a Mabie Todd Swan (1884/1887(?) +) or a Waterman 52 (1915 +, so just barely applicable). From the research I've done, these two pens definitely stand out but it's by no means a conclusive decision. I'm looking for at least a few of the following qualities: Gold (tipped) NibAt least a semi-flex nib (as an available not-rare option)While capped, no smaller than ~5 inches or 15.5mmCan be found in working condition for under $200 USDReliable brand that doesn't require tons of maintenanceNot a dip pen (just don't have much use for one) I don't really care about the filling method, and the brand doesn't matter as long as it meets most of the criteria. I'm not very interested in sets so that doesn't affect my budget. A minor preference is that the pen was manufactured before 1914 to put it before WWI, but I know there was a "boom" of fountain pens during and just after the war that I wouldn't want to exclude for such a petty reason. I look forward to reading any suggestions!

I was surfing around, looking for a nice Parker fountain pen for a reasonable price (I really love Sonnets and Duofolds too, but they are too expensive for my budget unfortunately). I ended up finding I found two IM's which I really like and I'm debating a bit over whether choosing this one in case I got a new Parker fountain pen (I have 45 and Jotter pencils and Jotter pens so far). (Also looked at Vector and Premier, but I like IM the best so far.) I'm curious for your opinions about it, like how practical and comfortable it is, if it's good for longer writing and maybe some not-so-professional calligraphic writing (for example for Christmas greetings) and so on. I attach two pictures of the ones I like the most so far The blue one is a Parker IM metal fountain pen and the green one says Parker IM Premium Vacumatic Emerald Pearl CT.

Hi all, tia for any input you're able to give me. I have a Noodler's Konrad, that I've kind of been through the wringer with, when I got it the nib was disastrously stuck. I ended up smashing the fins on the feed trying to get it out, and needed to order a replacement. Fast forward a year or so, the plunger mechanism(at least I assume that's what it's called- the twisty bit under the cap on the end to draw ink into the body of the pen- excuse my relative noob-ness) is so tight that I feel like I'm going to break it when I ink it up, with how much I have to torque it to get it to turn that first bit. My rather long winded, question is: is this normal, is there a problem with my pen that I've been oblivious to, and is there anything I can do to make the piston turn a bit smoother? Could the tightness in the body/piston of the pen be related to how tight the nib/feed was when I first purchased the pen?

Hey, everyone! This is my first post here on the FPN and I have a question for all you out there who own a Visconti Rembrandt. Recently I have been thinking of buying a Rembrandt because something about it just captivates me and draws me in but I have concerns over whether or not I will enjoy the pen seeing as how it has a metal section. I own a Parker IM rollerball with a metal section that I absolutely hate and don't want to buy the Visconti if that will be the case. Does anyone have and helpful input on this matter? Thanks in advance!

I have a MB 149 I acquired today,but under the clip,instead of 'Germany' or 'Pix', it says Made in Germany Metal Is this a real MB? Info: Bought today in Sydney from a Montblanc store Medium nib Help! The photo is hard to see,but if you look carefully,though you can't read the writing,it is clear that is not one of the two normal words.

Hi, I draw with Tashikawa calibrated pen /0,1mm/. It come with cartridge, which lasts about 3 days of drawing. Are there any possibilty to find a converter to pen? If not, are any calibrated pen 0.1mm or just a fountain pen with very fine nib? Thanks UPDATE - it s TaChikawa, not TaShikawa. Sorry