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Does anyone know of a site that lists the difference Waterman Pen models and their years of production? I'm particularly interested in the pens since the 1980s such as the Phileas, Kultur, Laureat, Expert (I,II,III), Carene, Hemisphere, etc. I can't seem to find a good source for when the regular Phileas started and ended production versus when the Kultur started and ended production. Their are also others that are more rare like the Maestro and the Master that sometimes get confused with the Laureat. Thanks Jim Bunch

Can anyone tell me what plastic the sections of Waterman's Kultur and Phileas fountain pens are made of? I have cracked sections in each of those fountain pens and I was advised to solvent-weld them. The problem is that I need to know what the plastic is in order to use the right solvent. I'd posted about this is the Repair forum but no one there seems to know. I'm hoping that someone here may know. Thanks for any help.

Hi, Is a Phileas rollerball barrel compatible with a Phileas fountain pen section? Silly question, but I have got a section in my junk box, and would like to make some use of it. Max

Hello, all! My lovely blue Phileas caught the eye of a new coworker (hallelujah, I am no longer the only "weird pen person" on staff) during a meeting. I had to break the news to him that the pen was discontinued, but I decided to help him out with a Google search for a decent replacement. Nothing can replace this lovely little gem, IMO. But the Hémisphère kept popping up in my searches. I know nothing of it; would it be considered a reasonably comparable writing experience? The writer is a relative newbie, and his current workhorse is a Kaweco Sport (black, with a gold clip). I welcome all opinions, highly biased and otherwise! Thanks, Jenny

Hi, I purchased a Waterman Fountain Pen Phileas Kultur Iridescent Blue Fountain Pen last September on eBay, and bought a waterman converter on Amazon. It has always been a bit of a tough starter to get the ink flowing, but recently, when I thought it just was being stubborn, I opened up the barrel to find it full of ink and the converter empty. I cleaned it out and reseated the converter, and it happened again. I do carry the pen around in a case with my sailor pen in my backpack, but the sailor is fine, and the waterman will not hold its ink, suddenly. (It doesn't get as much use as the Sailor does.) I'm wondering if it's the pen or the converter. Can I tell if it's a real Waterman? I suppose if it seems to be I should just try another converter? Is Amazon generally trustworthy on that sort of thing or are there inferior products out there too? I only used both sources as my usual pen shops didn't have the pen at the time, and lower Manhattan & NJ were in the midst of an apparent converter drought.... Anyone have similar experience with this particular pen? Thanks!

There is so little information about this pen out there. But it's THE fountain pen that got me into the hobby. You're welcome. . I saw this thing in a Staples, I think. Maybe an Office max or Circuit City. I remember it was Phoenix, Arizona, 1999. Something about it enchanted me. It was my favorite shade of dark blue. The gorgeous detailed inscription on the nib, the uniqueness of the entire concept of writing with a device I had never used. Per the rules of modern psychiatry, the 10, not yet 11 year old me was still in Piaget's period of childhood ego-centrism. What I liked, surely my mother would like. I begged my stepfather to buy it for my mom's birthday. I was either very persuasive, or very, very annoying, because he capitulated. Be it love for her child or legitimate interest (I presume the latter) she loved it. She only ever used cartridges of blue, but it was always in her purse. About 15 years later, when I became interested in using my father's wood shop, and made her a #5 nibbed fountain pen out of Hawaiian Koa (she spent most of the 1970's as a NAUI dive instructor in the Pacific, also as an electrical engineer, designing the power grids for island regions such as Palau and Kwajelin, and had a deep personal connection with Hawaii) at which point the old Waterman was laid to rest. About six months ago, my childhood and high school fascination for fountain pens was reinvigorated. I asked mom if she still had the old Waterman. She did, and she mailed it to me. It was gunked solid by the old long international cartridge in it, but a couple passes through my ultrasonic cleaner filled with hot water cleared the old girl right up. It has a strange little ring in the barrel that made most of my S.I. converters not fit, but the trusty old Jinhao sliding converter fit it perfectly. I filled it up with mont blanc lavender purple and tried it out. Wow. This old girl is a force to be reckoned with. I don't like the 1-10 rating systems. My opinions are just that. Opinions. Completely anecdotal, much like male enhancement products. My word is just as objective (well, maybe a little more, since I'm not being paid), as that of Ron Jeremy's. Steel nib be damned. It's got no breather hole and is as hard as a nail, but it's a true western F (leaning towards EF) with the most perfect, everyday paper medium flow. Shading, minor sheen, and what I consider the perfect amount of feedback a pen could have. Not glassy smooth, you feel the texture of the paper without even the slightest hint of scratchiness. Reverse writing is a hair scratchy and lays down a wet, consistent EF line. I couldn't be happier, this nib is amazing. Think Faber Castell Loom levels of perfection. Feed is plastic, but well designed, aesthetically interesting, and pulls clean out for easy cleaning. The nib is proprietary. About a #6 in size, it has fitment fins similar to the steel pilot custom heritage 74/91, so you can't swap it for anything. The body is full of amazing little details. The cap has two bands of gold. This one has seen HEAVY wear for the past 15 years and no brassing at all, despite a ton of micro scratches. The clip is sprung, and is by far the best clip of any pen in my entire collection, bar none. Perfect tension, perfect grip, slides in and out of a breast pocket no problem since the barrel has a very mild taper and a sharp angled bottom. The clip has a sharp taper to the rounded finneal that just looks and works amazing. I'm reminded of the detail and finish of the current visconti laser etched clips. Far more beautiful than Lamy or Faber Castell's sprung clips, and possibly more usable due to the rounded, smooth design with perfect sections for sliding over clothing. The grip section seems smallish, but the faceted secondary grip is just as comfortable and somehow manages to create a secondary grip section without the taper that eventually forces your hands to slide down to the knurling. I normally hold a pen close to the nib, but this one, I like the parallel knurling so much, I post the cap and hold it there. The incredible fact is that the grip goes from 9.7mm to 12mm without any real feeling that you're holding the pen in a way that it wasn't meant to be held. This is truly a fascinating grip design that I'm surprised wasn't copied. Cap posts deeply, securely, and does not change the balance of the pen whatsoever Cap has a perfect snap action, not too tight, not too loose. The acrylic is not anything special in terms of depth, but reminds me of deep, dark, roiling ocean waves. At the bottom of the barrel is a gold inlaid brass piece that mirrors the wonderful inscription of the nib. Tiny details that add up to a pen of exquisite quality, especially considering the price. Posted it's shorter than a pilot metropolitan, but big enough for even the largest hands without any upset in balance. Unposted, it's about as long as an unposted lamy al-star I am not sure what it retailed for, but this pen would be an outrageous value today at $40-60, blowing everything else out of the water without a question If you can find one used, in good shape for under $50, I highly recommend this pen. it's easily disassembled, takes standard international cartridges and converters, is very pretty, and fit and finish are nothing short of unbelievable for a pen under $200. The nib is a work of art, and is a true daily writer in every sense of the word. When I asked my mom to send me this pen, I wondered if I was going to look at it through the rose tinted goggles of nostalgia. But when held against what I consider to be the best steel nibbed pen currently produced, the Faber Castell Loom, the Waterman Phileas just edges it out in every singly meaningful way. Truly a wonderful, insane bargain if you can find one. I'll likely pick up a few more used ones as I find them on Ebay for a good price, and give them away as gifts. They're just so much better than any other entry level steel nib pen I've seen. Even better than most gold nibbed nails out there (including the platinum 3776, the fit and finish is NOTHING in comparison to the Phileas.)

As I mentioned on another thread, I dropped two Waterman Phileas pens onto the sidewalk. As RMN wryly observed: "Murphy's first law for fountain pen owners. The chance a pen drops nib down on concrete is proportional to it's value..." That was painfully true for me. I have checked with several of the best nibmeisters. None that I found would repair a steel nib (which the Phileas has, despite some gold plating). Nor do they do repair/replacements on the Phileas because the pen—and therefore the nibs—are no longer made. I know that the Kultur and Harley use similar barrels and tips, but I would like to repair what I've got if possible. So....I am taking the advice of Sailor Kenshin and asking if anyone can suggest a fix. There are three pens in the photo, but one is a perfectly new nib just for comparison purposes. I made amateur attempts to straighten the other two nibs, which did not result in either being useable. HELP! www.TwelveDrawings.com

I just bought my first ever marbled Phileas. It's used and comes with no converter or cartridges. I'm having it delivered to my Florida address but it will be a bit of a pain that I can't write with it as I don't have any Waterman cartridges or converters. Can someone please advise me which version of converter is the right type for a pen like this, as I prefer to try and find the version it would have had originally. Are we talking about the one with the piece of metal at the end?

Hey folks, Just got an xlnt condition all black Phileas, all is swell except that the clip is just a bit loose. A little play, both in gripping against the cap and a tiny bit side-to-side. Any tips on how to effect repair? I've used a micro-LED light to look inside, but outside of a round metal piece in the end of the cap, I can't see any way to adjust it. Any hints appreciated...

In my hunt for Phileas fountain pen bargains, I naturally glance through eBay occasionally. The number of $199 price tags on black Phileas pens tell me that the sellers are feeling bullish (optimistic) about the price of that model. FP experts might call this irrational overpricing, but the buyers have the final vote on what the pen is really worth. Phileas "Kultur" pens are an inexpensive version of the more costly Phileas. They lack the gold-plating and have no hefty brass tube inside the handle. The Kultur models have a slightly different tip on their cap, but appear to be cast from the same mold as a conventional Phileas. Every Kultur I have seen is made of transparent—and often colorfully tinted—plastic instead of the Phileas' signature opaque colors. I prefer Phileas, but I notice the Kultur have been selling for $20-40 lately. This morning, I came across this listing on eBay http://www.ebay.com/itm/WATERMAN-PHILEAS-TRANS-BLUE-DEMONSTRATOR-FOUNT-PEN-MED-/130484388789?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e6179c3b5 See anything missing? The photo shows a transparent blue pen with no gold plating and no brass tube inside. Look at the name. It is called a Phileas "demonstrator"; the word "Kultur" is nowhere in sight. I myself bought a crystal clear Phileas "demonstrator" last year, thinking it would be an interesting novelty. Only later did I realize it is the same pen as the more colorful Kultur. I paid about $35 last year and today's pen has a "buy now" price of $67.....about what a classic used Phileas sells for. I don't know this particular seller and they would probably say I am making much ado over a simple omission. I'll grant that. But as the true Phileas pens become increasingly rare, will we see more Kulturs being presented as a full-fledge Phileas? And is that truth or truth-stretching? So what do you think? Is it fair to label such a pen as a "Phileas" without adding "Kultur"? BTW, what does "demonstrator" really mean? Is that a designation that Phileas uses? Or is it the seller's way of saying the pen has been extensively handled and perhaps used in a store?

We all have one. That certain pen that we are going to get "one of these days". And then when we finally get around to it, too late! They are sold out, discontinued, etc. (Some of)Mine are: 1. Waterman Phileas - I really wanted one of the "early" red marble ones (before there was any white in the swirl) 2. Lamy Safari Orange - they were serious about "limited edition" 3. Mont Blanc Meisterstruck - yes, I know these are still available, but at a substantial premium over what they sold for a few years ago. So what are some of yours?

I post my Waterman Phileas pen and ink drawings at www.twelvedrawings.com Some background: I create drawings based on words associated with Twelve Step recovery. I use definitions found in a 1934 Webster's dictionary because some subtle changes have occurred since the AA Big Book was published in 1939. Pen and ink drawing have been a staple of popular art for centuries. I hope the artform will always endure—despite the advent of new computer software. There is a rather timeless quality about pen and ink drawings that can blur the lines between historical periods. That timelessness is an effect I deliberately try to achieve. Why? Becauase if I had one wish, it would be to help the younger reader look beyond the antique-sounding vocabulary found in recovery literature like the Big Book. Within that "grandfatherly" writing can be found very specific, definite, and practical instructions for those who wish to be freed from alcholic and addictive insanity. These illustrations are how I carry that message. I use 9 x 12" paper and a medium Waterman fountain pen—like the one seen in the drawing called "Difference"*. You will probably notice pencil sketch marks here and there on the drawings. I try to erase them because they are distracting to some people. To be honest, I draw mostly for my Higher Power and thankfully He has the job of being perfect, not me.

If you use only vintage, high-quality fountain pen, please move on. This subject matter is strictly for people like me who mess around with "genuine, non-imitation" plastic fountain pens. Plastic pens can receive minor or major scratches. So can metal pens, but many metals can be polished to remove most scratches. My Waterman Phileas began life as an inexpensive student pen. No lacquer finish. No solid-gold nib (at least that I've seen). No wood, glass, or ivory inlay. It was and still is a molded plastic pen cast in one solid color (and others bear a faux-marble appearance). I shouldn't be finicky about this, but it bothers me when my favorite pen suffers cosmetic scratches or gets that hazy patina resulting from countless small scratches. I have tried buffing it back to a glossy shine using toothpaste. (Hey don't laugh—toothpaste is a very gentle polishing compound that works on certain plastics without creating new scratches.) But considerable work was required to produce any visible improvement. I have one "freebie" Phileas that shows sings of a previous owner's butchery. They must have attempted to use a coarse grit sandpaper because the "polishing" left more scratches than it could possibly have removed. I would post photos but I seem to have used up my limit of download space. Has anyone had any luck polishing or buffing scratches out of their Phileas? If so, please share. If you think it is absurd to put this much effort into a low-end plastic pen, please refer back to the first paragraph. —www.twelvedrawings.com

So...... It's a beautiful day here in Brisbane today. Sun is out. Everyone is in a good mood around the office. You get the picture. Well, I went out for my usual late afternoon lunch break; grabbed some excellent sushi..... Everything was going to plan! Everything, that is, until this...... I'm not sure how it happened - I'm not sure exactly what happened - I am reasonably sure however that my girlfriend will kill me because it did happen: Somehow, standing innocently in front of a shop window has led me to become the owner of a new pen!!!! As such, without any further adieu & with great pride - I'd like to introduce you all to the latest part of my small but oh so delightful (to me anyway) collection!! My beautiful new Waterman Phileas Solid Black with Gold Trim (Medium nib) : I'm still well & truly getting to grips with it (playing with my new toy is probably more of a fair statement) however I'm already a massive fan of how it writes - it truly does lay down ink superbly. On that note, I also picked up a bottle of Waterman Inspired Blue ink (I'm a firm believer that there is no point going "a little bit" broke!!) which is really interesting in how different it is from my usual "business-like" palette of colours. Anyway, thanks for letting me share! Now, where to hide the receipt????? Cheers everyone! Mike

Sasha Royale, Hmm. What an interesting question—one I can answer only for my own experience creating www.TwelveDrawings.com Fountain pens are much more closely associated with writing than with drawing. In fact, I don't personally know any artists who use a fountain pen. I am pleased to find artists here on the Fountain Pen Network, but I think fountain pen usage is probably rare in the general population of artists. WHY NOT USE PENCIL? First, I should explain why I prefer using pen and ink vs a pencil. I can and do use pencil for sketching but have always preferred the demands and rewards of pen and ink. I would compare pencil use with skydiving, where there is real excitement involved but also ample room for correcting minor errors. Pen and ink is more like B.A.S.E. jumping which is very unforgiving of even the smallest mistake. (Not that I am brave enough to actually try either dangerous sport for real). Every mark or motion made by a pen will remain visible in the final drawing, so there is a bit of risktaking in each new stroke of a pen. WHY NOT USE A CALIGRAPHY PEN? This one you already know. The chisel-shaped nib required to make those wonderful letter forms is not well-suited for my style of illustration. WHY NOT USE A TECHNICAL PEN? Most pen and ink artists I know are fond of Rapidograph technical pens https://d2npbuaakacvlz.cloudfront.net/images/uploaded/large-present/2012/7/13/rapidograph-pens-1342201371.jpg These unique pens were used worldwide for creating architectural blueprints and engineering drawing. They come in an astonishing array of nib widths, but are must be held almost perpendicular to the page, rather than in an oblique handwriting position. Although I love Rapidographs, I prefer a pen that lets me use a relaxed handwriting grip.....thus, I use a Phileas. WHY NOT A MORE EXPENSIVE FOUNTAIN PEN THAN PHILEAS? Here I must declare a tiny bit of Divine intervention. I had only a brief interest in fountain pen as a child. Then, in middle age, I came across a display of Phileas pens in the Staples office supply store. I was mostly an idle doodler at that time, so I'm not sure why I suddenly wanted to own the Phileas. Its $50 price tag seemed absurdly high since my favorite drawing pen at the time was a $1.49 Pilot RazorPoint felt-tip pen. I took the plunge and bought what for me was an exorbidant luxury item. (Only much, much later did I learn that the Phileas is viewed by connoisseurs as a low-end "economy model" pen.) I was mesmerized by the very things that Waterman had purposely included...nostalgic Art Deco styling, glossy black enamel, and gleaming gold details. I don't usually collect "bling", but I liked owning this one particular bit of dazzle. WHY NOT A LESS EXPENSIVE PEN? I have formed a loyal bond with the Phileas. My devotion is not entirely rational, but it harms no one that I don't seek out less-expensive alternatives. WHAT'S TO LIKE ABOUT THE PHILEAS? • FEEL: Looks aside, I found the Phileas to have an excellent "feel" when writing or drawing. Other than my one childhood pen (a Sheaffer?), I have no basis for comparison. Today, I realize I was not alone in admiring the smooth performance of Phileas. The high-end Waterman designers seem to done a remarkable job when they created this low-end pen. It writes cleanly, delivers ink reliably, is physically rugged (when the cap is firmly on), and very easy to maintain. • CONSISTENCY: Like most ink illustrators, I primarily use dots (stippling) and lines (hatching) in my illustrations. A typical fountain pen is meant to create handwriting, but there are plenty of dots and lines in that. However, when I am drawing, I work very very fast. My Phileas must deliver up to 200+ dots per minute—that's averages 12,000 strokes per hour. Multiply that by 2 to 8 hours per drawing, times 70+ drawings and you'll see I am putting my Phileas through torture-test conditions. I have never "worn out" a Phileas pen. I have lost one and ruined two (accidentally dropping them nose-down onto concrete), but they work as well when old as they did new. • DIVERSITY: The afore-mentioned Rapidograph technical pens deliver a consistent, near-perfect round ink dot with each tap. That's why so many artists love them. When I draw, I am improvising constantly and do not want to see a perfect uniformity in my pen marks. The Phileas is capable of drawing very neatly, but it can also deliver scratchy, sloppy, and even wild lines given the right drawing technique. When I examine my stippling under a mangnifier, I am amazed that no two dots look alike. That would drive perfectionists crazy, perhaps, but I like it in a jazzy improvisational sort of way. Thank you for asking a very interesting question, Sasha Royale. I had never given any of the above much thought before. I know there are many much-finer pens in the world. But by Divine intervention or just plain luck, I found the right one for me (and my budget) on the first try. Since I am a pen user, not a collector, I am contented to stop with what I've got. I am curious how other fountain pen artists would answer your question. TweveDrawings

Hello. I have been using Waterman Phileas fountain pens to create several series of drawings related to the Twelve Steps of recovery. Some are posted here on FPN at https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php/topic/251131-twelve-drawings-with-waterman-phileas/ The original 1930s AA literature made more sense to me after I bought a 1930s era dictionary. After some prayer and meditation, I began using pen and ink to call attention to these insightful definitions. Call me crazy, but my time spent drawings keeps me out of the pool halls! I have loved and lost several Phileas pens. That's because I insist on carrying them in a pocket when they would be much safer in a desk drawer or special carrying case. I want the pen to be handy because my busy family life leaves me only a few moments at a time to work on my drawings. I am working on my seventh series of TwelveDrawings. The various series are titled: 1. The Serenity Prayer 2. The Steps 3. The Promises 4. The Metaphors 5. The Insanities 6. Religious or Not? 7. The Traditions The first four series are on my website at www.TwelveDrawings.com Many of the others are posted in my Twitter profile at @twelvedrawings I'm not suggesting that this subject matter will or should interest you. I created the drawings for my Higher Power. But if you find one that "speaks" to you, download it free for your personal use. — TwelveDrawings.com