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Affordable flex is difficult to find. My recent practice in learning copperplate script makes me appreciate flexible nibs as writing tools. Dip pen nibs offer both affordability and ultimate flexibility and line variation, if the writer is willing to carry jars of ink. Vintage flex fountain pen nibs offer portability at the price of a vintage flex pen. In this thread I will present results of informal experiments with nib flex modifications that start with the well-documented “ease my flex," and then include a central cut-out inspired by dip pen nibs. This thread will ultimately contain a series of four tests: 1. The first test, in this post -- modifications on inexpensive Jinhao and Airmail Wality nibs. 2. The “ease-my-flex” modification -- also known as "angel wings" -- applied to flex and extra fine, no. 6, steel nibs, from Fountain Pen Revolution. I selected FPR nibs because they're affordable, easily available in multiple sizes and types, and my previous experiences with them have been positive. FPN contributor Pterodactylus started a discussion of the "ease my flex" modification in February 2013, initially applied to the Noodler's Ahab model: https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/240492-noodlers-ahab-ease-my-flex-mod/ 3. A “central cutout” modification applied to flex and extra fine, no. 6, steel nibs. Also known as the "Cross of Lorraine."See post no. 5 by FPN contributor Freddy in this discussion thread: https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/317970-two-cuts-and-a-small-bend-to-make-your-jinhao-flex-like-a-zebra-g/ Synnove, the FPN contributor behind these "central cutout" tests, also created this thread: http://www.fountainp...-edison-jowo-6/ Additionally, Synnove did a small study on how much weight on the nib it took to splay the tines a given width. http://www.fountainp...-fat-grail-pen/ 4. A modification applied to flex and extra fine, no. 6, steel nibs that includes both ease-my-flex and central-cut-out. Test 1 was conducted on Jinhao x450 and Airmail Wality 71j pens that I already owned. Tests 2 through 4 are being conducted on FPR nibs, feeds, and Click pen bodies supplied by Kevin Thiemann of FPR. For the most part, Kevin supplied materials; I supplied labor and documentation. Today’s post includes my experience and results of the first test. I used a Dremel-type grinding tool to remove a small scallop with a depth of about 2 mm on each side of the shoulders of nibs on Jinhao x450 and Airmail Wality 71j pens. I wrote with the pens, and then used a Dremel-type cutoff disc to enlarge the breather holes to a horizontal oval about 3.5 mm wide. I documented both nibs with photographs, but did not document a writing sample from the Jinhao x450. TEST NO. 1 -- FLEX NIB MODIFICATIONS ON AIRMAIL WALITY NO. 6 FINE NIB AND JINHAO NO. 6 MEDIUM NIB A. WRITING RESULTS AFTER REMOVING WING SCALLOPS ONLY Jinhao x450 with no. 6 medium nib, 6 mm standard plastic feed More give/bounce in the writing experience, and tines separate slightly to make the nib wetter. Some flex if pushed, but this nib starts as a medium and requires too much pressure to generate line variation. Nib is smooth. Airmail Wality 71J with Airmail no. 6 fine nib, 6.3 mm standard ebonite feed More give/bounce in the writing experience. Tines definitely separate, making the nib wetter and the writing experience much more fun. Not much line variation. Nib has some feedback. B. WRITING RESULTS AFTER CREATION OF WING SCALLOPS AND 3.5 MM OVAL BREATHER HOLE Jinhao x450 no. 6 nib, medium Not much pressure required to make tines separate easily. Line width varies from about 0.6 mm to 1.2 mm -- basically 2X. Well-lubricated, pleasant writing experience. Plastic feed keeps up if the writer maintains steady, moderate pace. Occasional priming of feed required before a large flourish, or railroading occurs. More fun to write with. The snap-back, however, is sluggish, and after extensive writing, sometimes the tines don't return to their original position at all. Airmail Wality 71J with Airmail no. 6, fine Not much pressure required to make tines separate easily. Line width varies from about 0.4 mm to 1.1 mm -- about 3X. Standard ebonite feed nearly always keeps up. Increased flex seems to pull more ink, making the writing experience well-lubricated. Writer must push nib to unpleasant levels of pressure before railroading occurs. Much more fun to write with. C. ELEVEN OBSERVATIONS 1. One trial with the Jinhao no. 6 nib used only the expansion of the vent hole, with no wing scallop removal. In the writing trial, the tines widened, but didn't seem to snap back into position. Without wing scallops, the lines were all wide, all uncontrollably juicy, all the time. 2. The enlarged vent hole made a significant difference in the ability of the tines to separate. 3. The Dremel cut-off disc can make a crescent-like, oval, enlarged horizontal vent hole. The oval hole is ugly. Jeweler's needle files might help shape the hole, and some kind of buffing/polishing process would help. The design of vent/reservoir holes in dip nibs may provide some inspiration. 4. Gold-tone nibs lose their finish in the grinding process. Chrome-colored steel nibs might be more attractive candidates. 5. The back side of the nib, behind the slit, took some abrasion in the grinding process. Ink supply did not seem to be impeded. 6. The design of standard dip nibs is more utilitarian, often showing grinding marks where the manufacturer thinned the nib material. A pen user who modifies nibs for calligraphy may need to discount nib aesthetics. 7. Cutting the scallops from the wings is fairly simple and foolproof, and requires about 10 minutes. Enlarging the vent hole requires more precision, and also takes about 10 minutes. This is my first flex nib modification, and my first time using a Dremel tool. 8. The standard ebonite feed in the Airmail Wality 71J keeps up extremely well. No deepening of the ink channel was required. 9. The plastic feed in the Jinhao x450 kept up better than expected. 10. The modification process improves writing performance in both nibs, making the writing experience much more enjoyable. The modification also makes the nibs lay down significantly more ink, and the ink capacity of the Airmail Wality eyedropper helps. 11. This modification makes the standard fine Airmail Wality nib enjoyable to write with. Airmail Wality pen bodies are well-crafted, but provide significant amounts of feedback, and I usually swap the standard nib for something else.

How do you store your pen spare parts, ink converters, etc.? My wife finally managed to get me to clean up some of my mess, ahead of friends visiting (which is quite rare for us). I have boxes of pen spare parts, standalone or replacement nibs and nib units, dip pen handles and nibs, ink cartridges and converters, tools (such as tiny wrenches) for pen maintenance, water brush pens, a stamping kit to produce an outline image on swatch cards, makeup applicators for swabbing ink, display stands for (photographing) swatch cards, surplus Chinese pens, dedicated cheap pens for holding certain iron-gall inks and pigment inks so that they're always on the ready, etc. All of which, until recently, used to sit in a precarious pile (or ‘tower’) on one of the unused dining chairs, and it's hard to either move them or hide them away from sight all at once. Just as well that I also have a hoard of ‘spare’ storage boxes, document trays, etc. This one proved suitable beyond my expectations, even though of course it couldn't hold all of that type of bits and bobs; I still have dozens of new Sailor, Platinum, and Pilot converters, as well as retail boxes of ink cartridges and new surplus (not just Chinese, but also Japanese and European) fountain pens filling up mini-crates and crammed into a huge drawer elsewhere. Take a guess how much stuff it holds for me! This is not nearly the “all laid out” view, when there are stacks and layers inside the smaller boxes themselves: All of the plastic boxes shown were bought in Daiso, with the exception of this one:

I have had some small metal boxes sitting around doing nothing for a while now (I got them to store razor blades, but they turned out to be too small), and just suddenly decided that they might work well for nibs. I was extremely happy to say that these boxes work perfectly for nibs! They are made of tin and have a slide off top (which also slides onto the bottom for safe keeping when the box is open) with a little nipple that locks them securely in place. They easily hold an entire broad edge or italic nib set, with reservoirs, and still have plenty of room. They are a little larger than 10 count G nib boxes, look really nice, and are very secure. I purchased the 0.25oz size for $0.81 each, but they also come in 0.5oz for $1.01 each: http://www.sunburstbottle.com/silver-slide-top-tin/p/LBTSL/ http://www.sunburstbottle.com/large-slide-top-tin/p/LBTSLG/

Currently, for both lettering and drawing, I am using mostly vintage nibs: Gilbert & Blanzy-Poure Nibs (specifically the No.2552), which I bought a small lot of about a year ago (I have nearly 30 of them in pristine condition. 2 are in current rotation for black/ colored ink). I also have a modest stockpile of Baignol & Frajon 2730 (about five with one in a holder). My other two pen holders are loaded with Tachikawa (the spoon model and soft maru mapping model) for tighter lines with less variation. (These are great for hatching.) For comic lettering I have been bouncing between Brause (No.180) and Tachikawa round tip (1mm). I have a bunch of random hunt, brause, leonardt and nikkon nibs, but I can't say I use them with any frequency. I bought a few random samples from my usual nib haunts to try them out, and found I liked them okay, but what I had was fairly better (for my taste). Some were to scratchy, some caught on watercolor paper too easily and some were just too finicky for me. I like drawing quick and dirty, and need a nib that will keep up with that. Lately, I have been eyeballing Easterbrook nibs, because I seem to come across them everywhere. I was wondering if any of the nib users have come across them, and how they like the quality. The vintage nibs I have on hand now I like for springiness, line variation and consistency. They also almost never dump ink, even though I use them with a coil reservoir. So, I was wondering if anyone out there had any thoughts on various nibs, what they like to use and why (what properties do they have). I'm a nib hound in the sense that I like to try everything, but I am also not precious. I care more about performance than aesthetics. Of course, price is a concern too. I don't mind paying a little more for a vintage nib, but if finding something obscure is going to cost me a small fortune, that nib better draw a picture on its own. ETA: It occurs to me that I should also list the ink I am using. I use mostly Dr. Martin's Black Star Matte or Hi Carb black, Dr. Martin's Bombay colored india inks (mixable) or Speedball acrylic inks (also mixable). All are lightfast and waterproof. Different nibs behave better with different inks. I remember my Brause Rose nib loved thin inks, but the only thicker ink I could get it to work with was the DM Matte.