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My Ibis/130 has a broken clip. Does anyone know where I can source a replacement?

I found an aerometric Parker 51 locally for cheap, but its clip is broken. I'm looking for a clip to replace it, doesn't necessarily have to be a Parker 51 clip. What other clips would fit it?

Hi everyone, I'm a newbie here and I'm seeking some advice regarding the authenticity of recently made 164 BP. A friend of the family is offering to sell me a 164 (2866) gifted to him upon his retirement , and the warranty states the pen was sold in April 2022, so pretty recently. Of course the pen is in mint condition, but one detail caught my attention. On the underside the clip didn't have the mention PIX but simply "Made in Germany" and "Metal". I found it of course pretty odd. Would this be a red flag or is it simply the latest version of the pen? Many thanks for your help!

Is it possible to remove the clip from a pfm III. The cap was cracked and I have repaired the crack using a solvent weld I found was recommended on here a few years ago. Now I need to smooth the repair so its less visually ugly but it is very near to the clip so Id like to remove it as the plating is still in good condition. Also the cap has been attacked by a previous restorer who drilled out the end of the inner cap, presumably to try and make the clip less wobbly or because it corroded badly. Im planning to fix that with the tip of an imperial I inner cap. Anyway, this cap has no imprints at all, not a trace was this from factory, possibly a defect? or did the previous owner also attack this part of the cap. The nib says made in USA and the AUS nib I have doesn't fit the barrel threads as well which supports this being a US pen. The trim ring is also good so it would have to have been protected to keep the plating in tact if they sanded the markings off. Secondly the micro surfaces scratches are very constant across the hole pen so I don't think they have been removed. Any thoughts on this would be interesting. thanks for any help!

Is it a lot of trouble to replace the clip on a Sheaffer Targa? Do I need to send it to someone with awesome technical skills, or is this something a relatively novice and not particularly "handy" person could do?

I have a very nice little Franklin-Christof 45L, which is clipless. I never had a clipless pen before and I find it annoying. It is always trying to roll off my desk, and I can't take it anywhere because I need to clip it to my purse pocket or my shirt. I know custom pen makers may install a variety of clips on their own pens, but is there someone who would install a clip on a pen made elsewhere?

Hi folks, One of the things that can be pretty annoying on any pen is a loose part, usually a clip. Not only does it bother me when I'm writing, I worry that it'll get caught on something and pull off, or otherwise get damaged. One of my favourite pens is a lovely wood-grain Osmia 294 from the 1950s. It writes beautifully, and looks great in that streamliney 1950s way! The clip was loose however, and I thought I'd share the repair procedure in case it's useful for somebody with a similar design of pen. Ron Z has a blog on a similar (but not identical) procedure on his Blue Fingers Blog, so credit where it's due! The pen does not have a screw off cap top, because a. it wouldn't be streamliney and b. it would be too easy. And the clip itself is folded metal and cannot be tightened from the outside. When I say loose, I mean it was rattling and moving several mm in different directions. Here is an overview of the pen: The clip is held tight by a protrusion on the inner cap: You can see the metal tab on the clip that the inner cap protrusion fits into: And here is the final piece of the puzzle, the cap showing the slot the tab fits into: So how to fix the loose clip? If the clip is loose, it means that the inner cap is loose in the cap. The inner cap has a coarse right-hand (normal) thread on it. I was able to unscrew the inner cap and remove it using a rubber gripping sheet and a chopstick. Initially I tried simply tightening the inner cap, but the alignment wasn't right, so I loosened it and took the parts apart. This allowed me to wipe them down (they were pretty clean) and get the alignment perfect when I re-assembled. I chose to put a TINY bit of silicon grease on the inner cap threads. I may regret this if it continually loosens, but I'd rather have 70 year old parts able to come apart easily than jammed together. So now I have a tight inner cap, a tight clip, and a satisfying story! A small but significant repair. Here's the clip in place. You'll notice the contour of the clip doesn't quite match the contour of the cap all the way along, but it is completely solid, and I can live with that. Hope this is helpful to somebody, sometime :-) Best wishes, Ralf

After 3 times failure I made it at last. By using EOSINT M280 printer, a titanium clip was printed. To make it looks in matte finish. I polished it for one day and it looks great now. Clip Clip after install it to Kaweco Ti My next step is to creat a pen by using 3d printing and CNC machine. And I draw some stl file here. Cap Body Grip The Whole Pen I have tried many times to print prototype in resin like nylon12 or acrylic, but its accuracy is not enough. So next time I decide to print or use cnc machine in Aluminum, Sterling Silver or Alumina Ceramic. And I also want to design some pattern to make it looks more attractive. But due to the outbreak of disease. I can only stay at home now. :-P

Actually it is the first posts of this account.(Although I collected pen for long time, I never resgister on FPN before) I use an advanced 3d scanner and then draw its stl file for 3d printing. Actually it match Kaweco Sport Pen. Then I asked for a modern industrial 3d printed machine to build it. The material is CoCrMo Stellite alloy. However, I didn't have good tools to polish so it looks very rough. You can download STL file here: https://drive.google.com/open?id=171o32j0lQCWl4yjNgbrzcuxQHqS-f75K Suggestion: Use metal printing at first. I try PA66, PA12 before but the strength is not enough. Polishing is the most important process, without good polishment it may hurt Kaweco Pen Body

I just received a Wasp Vacuum-Fill Addipoint pen that turns out to have a broken ring clip. Pictures are shown below. Before I destroy the cap trying to remove the broken clip. Can anyone help with the following: 1. Is the jewel on this pen friction fit, or threaded? Can I just carefully pry it off? Was it glued? 2. How is the clip removed? Do I have to remove the inner cap, or just the jewel to removed it? 3. Do you know a good source for a replacement? Thanks ahead of time.

For those of you who've had this problem and looked closely at it, I'm sure you've seen the little spring behind the top of the clip. I'm sure you've suspected something about that spring was the source of your stress. It was. The disc you see in the picture is inside the cap, below the magnetic finial. I made a rudimentary tool to unscrew it (regular thread, CCW to loosen). First I removed the adjustable stop ring in the cap (this is reverse thread). The problem is that the ends of the spring aren't ground flat. If the spring turns such a way as the end of the coil spring seats crooked on the clip it pushes on the back of the clip at an angle. I tried to turn the spring in place but it it so compressed that I couldn't budge it. It had to come out. I ground the ends flat, as you might see on a valve spring, and put it back together. O frabjous day! It's fixed!

Anyone know when "Metal" showed up on the underside of the Montblanc Meisterstuck LeGrand 146 clip? I just bought a 146 and was surprised to see "metal" and "Made in Germany" on the underside of the clip, and no pix on the center band.

For Namiki/Pilot no.5 size(such as many Nippon Art) fountain pen (you can see a gold metal ring in this pen end) it has the similar body type as pilot 74 or 912, you can directly screw it and it can disassembly easily. But for Namiki/Pilot No.20 size pen its structure is so complex that I cannot find a way to screw. However, I still want to know the way to disassembly Namiki/Pilot No.10 size(such as yukari type) pen cap and clip, is any way can find out or any tool can be recommended？Thanks a lot!

Hi Forum Folke, Can anyone give me some instruction on how the cap on a Skyline comes apart? I have one with a semi-mangled clip (the "ball" at the end that lifts the clip over the pocket edge has somehow been flattened pretty badly.) I can't figure out how the thing comes apart so I can get the clip off of the cap and straighten out the bent metal; I need direct access from 'beneath' the clip... can't do it on the pen. Thanks for any direction! Pics would be good, but I can probably follow a good text description.

I found this in a local antique store for what might be a very good price. I'm rather new to Sheaffers, having grown up in a mainly Parker family, but am very impressed with the Snorkel and Vac-Fil that a friend gifted me last year. So I grabbed this pen when I saw it. I THINK it is a short slender Balance, but I am quite confused about nomenclature from my recent reading. In addition, this pen is clearly marked as Canadian, and has the fattest nib I have ever seen that isn't a music or italic nib. It needs a new sac so I haven't written with it yet to see the actual line thickness, and I am also confused about the proper sac size (after spending about 3 hours searching the topic). What is definite is this: 1. It's a Canadian Sheaffer as can be seen from the very good condition impression on the barrel, which says "W. A. Sheaffer Pen Co. | (of Canada, Ltd.) Malton, Ont. | Pat. 1936". 2. It is short, 120mm = 4.75". 3. It is slender, 0.423" at the widest part of the barrel. 4. It has a fairly wide sac nipple: 0.272". 5. it has a white dot and the nib is a Lifetime two-tone. 6. It's green 7. The clip is the flattened ball with Sheaffer inscription. 8 The nib looks very wide. Questions: 1. Is my general ID correct (short slender Balance)? Is there some other model name that goes with this pen? 2. What is the correct sac size? Pensac seems to suggest a #18 if I'm deciphering the model and chart correctly, and that fits the barrel and nipple, but the x/64 rule would imply a #17.5 for that nipple size. Richard Binder's site says to use a #15 for slender Balances if using the original lever. I have 16s and 18s on hand. What should I really use? 3. Is the proper color name Marine Green striped? 4. I've resacced a few Esterbrooks but and got this Balance apart easily with a variable temperature heat gun I have, but I am no expert on pen repair. I bought this pen to be a user, but other than some corrosion or dirt on the underside of the clip and ambering of the ink window it seem to be in very good condition. Roughly what would be the value of this pen? Is the value high enough that I should have it fully restored by a pro or should I continue to play with it? 5. I know the real test is how wide does the nib write, but I was wondering whether Sheaffer made a BB nib in the 1930s, or would this probably be a B? From certain angles it looks slightly stubby, but I suspect it really isn't. I appreciate any guidance those more knowledgeable about Sheaffer's can give me.

Dear All, Although I have many fine pens, I tend to not take them with me on a daily basis (I used to bring around a MB 146 for a week and it got scratched up so badly I felt really bad), so I bought a Nitecore NTP10 Tactical Pen as a backup pen to always have on me. This pen uses Fisher Refills, which make it really practical, and I keep it inside my pocket and this thing is so solid it never scratches (but ends up scratching other things). However, one day it got caught on something and the clip bent outwards completely. I tried bending it back, but no matter how much I bend it, it won't be past the flat angle and I have no idea how to remove the clip. Any ideas on how to unbend this clip? I believe it is made of Titanium, but I am unsure. Many thanks in advance.

Hi All, I've been a member of this forum for a while, although a not very active one though (bought a few pens here and there from users of the forum). Sadly, I've managed to break the clip of my beloved Waterman Hemisphere Fountain Pen (Shimmery Blue). Can anyone point me in the direction on where I can get a replacement for it and if I'll need any special tools to replace it? I live in Portugal but I have no problems ordering the part from anywhere in the globe. Thank you for all your help.

Hello all. I have a couple of pens with clip damage. I'm aiming to keep them both, so I'm not too concerned, but I was just wondering what I might be able to do. I have a lovely red Eagle Prince at last. I've been trying to score one of these for ages, and while they come up fairly often on eBay in the States, they're pretty hard to get for a reasonable price in the UK. I assume the clip has lost its gilt, and I think it looks quite nice actually, as it's a lovely near-black tarnish, with the remains of the gilt on the imprint. What I was wondering with this one is what the base metal is, and will it deteriorate if I leave it untouched? The other is an Osmiroid, which has lost a big chunk of chrome (?) or whatever its plating is. This one is obviously not such a good look, and already rusting, so what can be done about this? Cheers!

Happy Veterans Day to all veterans and those who love them!

I have recently inherited two Pelikan pens, a 100N in tortoiseshell, and a 100N in grey marble, whose restoration process I would like to share with you. These pens originally belonged to my grandfathers, hadn’t been used for many years, and were suffering from several problems, which a number of specialized repairers that I contacted in Europe – namely in Portugal, Spain, England and Germany – were unable to solve. Then I was lucky enough to learn about the work of Mr. Francis Goossens, also known as ‘Fountainbel’, who is a retired mechanical engineer from Belgium who nowadays dedicates to develop prototypes of new fountain pens, and to restore old ones. I wrote to Mr. Francis asking him if he would be kind enough to have a look and try to repair my pens, to which he promptly replied saying he would do the best within his power to repair my pens. Last month I sent my pens to Mr. Francis, and he has just sent them back in a mint and fully functional condition. Mr. Francis was extremely attentive throughout the reparation process, patiently explaining all the problems he came across, the different possibilities to approach the repairs, and what was at stake. Throughout this process I have come to admire his work and his ethics, which I think should be known in the fountain pen world. Mr. Francis is a true master of his craft, and a perfectionist unwilling to compromise in the impeccable quality of the work that he so passionately does. Below I am posting a few images of the repaired pens, and listing the problems that Mr. Francis came across, and which he was able to repair. Pelikan 100N in tortoiseshell 01_The pen was missing the golden cap rings. Mr. Francis fabricated new brass ones in his lathe, had them “two cycles” gold-plated by a specialist, and finally swaged them into the cap grooves using an internal back up plug. The rings grooves in the cap were deepened during a previous repair attempt. Consequently the new cap rings were made with a thicker wall in order to get them tight at the bottom of the grooves nearly flush with the outer cap diameter. Swaging was a particularly delicate procedure because the cap wall was very thin, and because the rings had to be swaged to get a perfect fit. 02_The cap clip had at some point been replaced a non-original one, and Mr. Francis was able to find an original one and have it gold-plated together with the newly fabricated cap rings. 03_The cap had two lengthwise cracks that Mr. Francis was able to chemically fuse. 04_The cap also had a bit of glue near the rings grooves because a previous repairer, supposedly a specialist, had tried to glue new rings to the cap, and the result was a nightmare. Fortunately Mr. Francis was able to remove the glue and polish the whole pen, restoring its original shine. 05_Mr. Francis discovered that at some point part of the nib housing of the cap enclosure plug had been cut off, probably to provide a longer screw thread fit between barrel and cap – but which most likely led to the aforementioned cracks. Mr. Francis was able to elongate the bush, restoring it to its original condition. 06_The piston seal was not fully tight, so Mr. Francis installed a new piston seal using two O-rings with silicone grease between both rings, and cleaned the filler. 07_The nib had to be fine tuned, which Mr. Francis also did. Pelikan 100N in grey marble 01_The filling system was not functional at all. The ink window had shrunk over time, and for that reason the piston seal was not sealing any more. In addition, there was a linear crack in the barrel threads, which would result in ink seeping through. In the face of this Mr. Francis fabricated a new green acrylic ink window in which the piston can make its full stroke, with the exact characteristics of the original one. Below you can also find the technical sketch that Mr. Francis elaborated as a preparation for the piece fabrication. The work was so impeccably executed that it is impossible to notice that this is a newly fabricated piece. 02_The ebonite feed missed one of its external fins, so Mr. Francis installed a new feed, now mounted in a new screw-in nib housing allowing easy swapping of nibs assemblies. 03_The cap lip had a long linear hairline crack, and Mr. Francis was able to find an original cap in perfect condition to replace the damaged one. 04_The pen needed a thorough cleaning and polishing, and nib fine-tuning, which Mr. Francis also did.

Hello fellow Lamy fans on FPN! I am a long time Lamy user and a diehard fan. I just have a question for you about one of the ways your Lamys may wear and tear over time (pens with wear listed in brackets). Between my Logos (brushed and stainless steel), Al-Stars, Lxs, and Studios (black) I have noticed that within around 18-24 months of use, the clip rubs a fine line just underneath its point of contact with the cap with a varying degree of aesthetic wear. On the Logos regardless of style it rubs a fine clear line (way more noticeable on the brushed one making that one look almost like the matte one), on the Al-Stars and Lxs, the clip rubs to faint lines just underneath it fading the colour slightly and finally the black studio (and oddly only that one), has the black layer chipped off in that are revealing the clear metal underneath. Just wondering if anyone else has borne witness to this phenomenon on their pens as well and if it is similar or different from what I am experiencing!

I'm thrilled that I'll soon have my first Franklin Christoph. I jumped on the Model 02 in antique glass when the opportunity came up a few months ago. I received an email that my pen is ready. I'm likely going with the Masuyama HPS CI - M, or possibly the HPS SIG - F. If you have pics to support your opinion, all the better..... Your input is needed! Quickly, please: Clip or no clip?

I'm a little desperate here. I can't seem to find any suppliers of clips. I know that they have to be out there somewhere, because I see lots of people on this forum using the same oblong ball ended clip. Can anyone tell me where to get these? or ANY other pen clips for that matter? I'm not really interested in making clipless pens or clipless pens with roll stops for the rest of my life.... I would love any suggestions about where I can get more/different pen clips. I will take ANY suggestions. Thanks in advance for the help.

I bought this in a lot of three pens - a Reform and a Regie with a glass nib, but what's this? It's a deep Loden green and no markings I can see. It came with a gold Bock nib. Any ideas?

If anyone owns a Kaweco Liliput BALLPOINT and is looking for a clip I'll happily pass mine on. Guess who didn't realise the Fountain Pen and Ballpoint clips are different sizes I'll cover postage to the UK, if you live further afield you're welcome to the clip for the cost of postage. First come, first served!