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Showing results for tags 'cap'.
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Would anyone know where i can get a cap replacement my current pen took a sharp tumble, thankfully nib is fine, and the cap broke in 2 ( 3 if you count the clip which i couldnt find.. So is there an area where i can snag a cap even if used?
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From the album: Alex's images
Part of this post: https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/375374-parker-65-cap-clutch-too-tight-fyi/
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From the album: Alex's images
Part of this post: https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/375374-parker-65-cap-clutch-too-tight-fyi/
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From the album: Alex's images
Part of this post: https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/375374-parker-65-cap-clutch-too-tight-fyi/
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I have a Parker 65 whose cap was extremely tight to put on and remove, and looking inside, I couldn't see the traditional metal clutch prongs, so with the help of a Dycem sheet, I took it apart only to find a rather interesting clutch mechanism: The inner cap has slits towards the opening and there's a spring wound around that "waist," creating the pressure needed to secure the section when the pen is capped. To adjust, I simply took the spring off, wound it around the barrel of another pen and stretched it with a letter opener: I ended up overdoing it a bit, but it's still usable: Sharing in case someone else runs into the same problem. Alex
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Pelikan M400 in Brown Tortoiseshell from the early 1980s - cap logo .jpeg
Mercian posted a gallery image in FPN Image Albums
From the album: Mercian’s pens
This is just to show the logo on the top of the cap of my early-1980s Pelikan M400 in Brown Tortoiseshell. The incised lines of the logo have been filled with brown paint, to match the pen’s body. The contemporary M400 fountain pens in Pelikan’s traditional Grün-schwarz stripes had their cap logos filled with green paint.
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I have already had to send my year old Mystery filler Pineider pen back to Italy once for an issue with the cap, that took 4 months to get back. Now it has another issue with the cap, and I really do not want to have to send it back again. 1st the bottom seal between inner and outer cap failed. Now the top seal has failed. So irritating that they didnt check that top seal too before returning it. Looking up thru the cap, I can see where the O-ring has failed. Is there anyway on this pen that I can replace that O-ring without mailing it back to Italy? Is there anyone stateside who can repair it? Thank you for your help. I love the nib but I will never buy another pineider after this experience. sincerely, Wynn
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Does anyone know how to dismantle the Sailor King of pen cap ? there is ink trapped in the inner plastic cap and and i cant remove it, it seems to be screwed in place with a spring behind it to keep the nib from drying !
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2 weeks ago i got a parker duofold centennial stearling silver barrel. i have spare centennial grip part so i need only stearling sliver cap. i tried to find it at google, ebay, japan auctions and several fountain pen stores. anyone know which store is selling a centennial silver cap???
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My Montblanc fountain pen nib end is stuck in the cap. Don’t know how, never given it to anyone didn’t use for a while and tried opening it a month back. Took it to their store in London- said it will need to be send to Germany may take 3-6 months!! Just initial cost £86 and rest depends on whatever they charge! Any help in opening the mob end would be appreciated.
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My Parker Duofold is almost 10 years old and the rhodium (palladium ?) cover on the cap rings has been damaged. I have contacted to a jeweler about this issue and he suggested me to detach these rings from the cap. So I have 2 questions: is it possible to disassemble the cap (without any damage) and which metal should a jeweler use to restore the cover? Or maybe it is better to order new rings made of white gold for example? Any help is highly appreciated. Love and peace to everyone! No to war!
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My brother gave me a stainless steel Parker Vector he found a few years ago with a spare nib, pictured. Unfortunately, no cap, and no luck finding any sellers on eBay. Newell-Rubbermaid customer service have also proved somewhat less than satisfactory... no spare parts, no warranty (tbh it looks like a 20 year old model, from comparing the nib with my others). A far cry from Cross, who offered to service my pens (still haven't got the courage to send them in by post yet). I could always cannibalise from one of my other pens, but that hurts. Any of you know where I could potentially get my hands on a replacement lid to make this pen usable? Would Parker 15/Jotter/Arrow FP lids also fit on a Vector? (I tested an Arrow rollerball lid as not fitting on a Vector)
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Hello everyone, I just bought this St Dupont Fidelio Sterling Silver cap FP BP set
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Could anyone tell me how much a Cross Bailey's cap should be expected to wobble? - eg when capped? I've just bought a Bailey whose cap does this, shifting around by as much as a millimeter on either side. The wobble is especially noticeable when the pen's held by the cap. How typical is this of Baileys? My other Cross pens (Calais, Century & cherished Dubai) all have very secure caps.
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Recently I was able to get this Cocoa Parker 51 with a 1/10 12k gold cap. The imprint is fully legible with the date code showing that the pen was made during the third quarter of 1951. The pen looked pretty rough when I got it with dark spots in the gold cap and spots on the barrel. The barrel was easily cleaned up with some very fine polishing compound but the cap proved to be another matter until I reached for my can of Never Dull. A small wad of Never Dull did wonders for the cap (has anyone used Never Dull this way?). All of the dark spots faded to tiny specks and one small dark streak on the cap opposite the clip at the very top of the cap. There is also a small ding in the cap at about 9 O'clock from the clip. In addition to the ding and small spots on the cap (actually small pits and flaws in the gold filling), the breather tube is apparently either loose or corroded in two as I can hear and feel it move about if I slowly shake the pen with the barrel off. The pen fills and writes quite nicely, albeit a bit dry for my tastes but certainly doesn't miss a beat regardless how fast one writes. So, the question is: Do I fully restore this Parker 51? I can remove the sac and probably change out the breather tube here. The ding in the cap is another matter. I don't have the tools for that so I would need to send it off. Removing the ding should be straight forward but there would still be the flaws in the gold filling. Can those flaws be repaired or will I end up reaching escape velocity on this with the costs exceeding the pen's value. Right now, I am into the pen about $50 and could do the sac and breather tube here for another $15.00 or so. I heard that Cocoa is a somewhat rarer color. Is that true? Your input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Cliff
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Pros- Strong Aluminum Body Nice Nib which has slight flex to it Very Light Weight yet sturdy Good For Long Writing Sessions Unique Design Cons- Cap Spins!!!! – hexagonal pen’s sides don’t always line up between the cap and body. It spins also while posted Converter Not Included Overpriced – Better pens are available at lesser price. Section can work itself loose from the body through writing One pen of mine had a baby bottom, so poor QC. Bad Customer Service. Specs & Things you should know- Material- Aluminium Snap On Cap Clip Material – Metal Clippable- Yes Converter – Not Included Diameter – Grip 7.7 mm Diameter – Max 13.1 mm ED Convertible- No Grip Material – Plastic Length Capped – 14.1 cm / 5.6 inches Length Uncapped- 12.3 cm / 4.8 inches Weight with Barrel (Empty)- 0.34 oz / 10 grams Weight with Cap – 0.27 oz / 8 grams Weight of Whole Pen (Empty)-0.62 oz / 17 gramsgrams Other Key Things – Packaging – Nice, but you should remember it doesn’t comes with converter. Design- Okay!! the pen has Faceted hexagonal body which looks nice but spinning cap is deal breaker for sure. It becomes too long when used posted. Some guys may not like this Slim Grip! Nib Performance – Nib is smooth & flexes a bit when pressure is applied on it. Overall- Unique design but many major drawbacks. And when compared to other pens in this price range it’s total disappointment. Note – I have 3 of these, I purchased these pens from GouletPens , JetPens & Fahrney’s pen. It retails from $55-65. Full Review Link - https://inkpenlover.wordpress.com/2021/05/13/caran-dache-849-fountain-pen-review-great-hexagonal-design-but-it-is-overpriced-has-major-flaws-too/
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Hello all, I recently acquired a wonderful Parker Duofold International with a personalized cap as shown below. This was disclosed in the listing, so I new this was something I would have to address. In reading previous posts, mostly dealing with lost medallions, I understand that the top portion of the cap is not easily removable. Does anyone have more recent experience with replacing such a part, or with obtaining a medallion to adhere over it? There are a few listings on ebay, but all are military or college branded. I'm hoping to find some alternatives, or a source to replace the part. Thank you in advance. Gump Photo Link: http://imgur.com/a/pE8QH Apologies for not embedding, I was unable to attached the file nor embed using the traditional tags.
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Hi everyone, I know that one the Sailor 1911S and the Sailor 1911L the finials can be unscrewed and the clips removed but I was wondering if some of their cheaper models can still have their finials, clips removed. The pens in question are the Sailor Compass and the Sailor Shikiori. The image I've attached is a closeup of the sailor compass demonstrator, I know sailor doesn't glue their finials but is the same true for their more affordable models? Thanks!
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Something, perhaps glue (no idea how), has interfered with the threads and made it impossible to use this Parker Duofold fountain pen cap and I understand that it cannot be repaired. Can you help me describe it accurately so that I can search for a replacement? Also, if you know where I might find a replacement that would be helpful. You may contact me directly <rad2556@gmail.com>. Thank you.
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On the left side, there is the usual Parker 51 cap shape that I was already familiar with. On the right, it's a cap that came with a Parker 51 that I recently got from ebay. It has the 51 printed on it along with "1/10 12K GF" then "Made in USA". However it's suspicious to me that it has a somewhat slimmer apperance, a smaller jewel and a longer arrow clip. Can the cap on the right side of the picture be legit for the pen it came with? The pen is an otherwise ordinary looking aerometric 51 with the filler that has the black plastic bit at the top and the "To fill press ribbed bar firmly 4 times..." imprint and a barrel that says "Made in England". I think the fact that the barrel comes from England and the cap from the USA is quite suspicious. However, I'm pretty sure I've read about some early aerometric 51s that have a longer clip, so maybe this is just one of those? What do you guys think?
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Hey all, the cap band separated from the cap on my Carene so the cap is no longer held in place. Customer service invited me to send it to France for repair, but in procrastinated and decided I can just glue it back into place. It would take quite a while for me to get the pen back and it is one of my favorites. I doubt I will ever sell it, so Im not too worried about ruining its value. I am worried about ruining its aesthetic. Will a drop of super glue handle this? 2 ton epoxy? Marine epoxy? What would you use? Thanks
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Hi all, Coming to seek wisdom on a problem I can't solve. A few months ago, I tracked down an old Danitrio Cum Laude. I love almost everything about the pen, but I found that after sitting overnight (or even for a few hours) the nib would be dry and need help to start back up. At first I thought this was a nib/feed issue, but after replacing both, I get exactly the same problem. On doing a little digging, I found that this is a problem on some Cum Laudes. Some apparently don't have an inner cap, which covers the hole where the clip inserts into the cap. But here's the mystery — my Cum Laude does have an inner cap, the usual small black insert. From shining a light through the cap, I was able to determine that my inner cap is not all the way at the back of the outer cap. It sits below the clip hole but above the nib. I'm not sure if this is the proper placement, but I didn't want to try shoving it back farther for fear of damaging the celluloid. Either way, the seal clearly isn't working, because the pen hard starts every time I pick it up. All of which is a long way to ask: is there anything I can do? I'm not an expert repairman, nor do I have much hope of tracking down a fresh cap. With the inner cap in place, I can't even reach the hole from the inside to plug it with sealant. I'm stumped. I'm also sad, because I really like this pen in all other ways. Thanks in advance for any help or insight. I hope everyone is staying healthy and sane — writing by hand has been a source of stability for me these days.
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Hello Friends and Pen Enthusiasts, I plan to manufacture "Luxury HandMade Fountain Pens". I want your suggestions with reference to the following:- 1. Which Material would you suggest I should use? a.) ebonite b.) teak wood c.) resin d.) any other then please suggest. 2. Which NIB is the best in the world. ? a.) Schmidt b.) Bock c.) Jowo d.) any other then please suggest. 3. Which material nib is the best? a.) Steel b.) Gold c.) any other then please suggest. 4. Which is the best ink feeding system in the world? 5. What kind of material should be used for the Clip ? -- a.) Brass b.) any other then please suggest. I sincerely await your inputs or suggestions of any or all of the above points. Incase you believe that I may have missed something crucial or I need to be aware of then please feel free to let me know. In the event you want to suggest something which is different then my thought process mentioned above then too please feel free to share your thoughts. Though I am at an advanced level of conceptualisation, my intent is to create a "TRUE LUXURY PEN" which can be handed down from generations to generations and is extremely high on quality. All Suggestions are welcome. Thanks, Vikas
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