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Woweeeeee... Too bad it shot past my self imposed limit of £150 + S&H. All things considered the price it eventually went for wasn't so bad but too much for me atm. To be honest, I already have one 51 with a factory original 1.1-1.2 mm stub (juicy but would like it to be more crisp). It was just that that nib was... so achingly clean and shaped so nicely. I can almost see it leaving behind a beautiful wide, wet but crisp line with amazing line variation. Oh well, the hunt is still on, just lovely to see an outstanding specimen like that.

So a few days ago i received a Hero 389? with an artist nib/ fude nib in it. I tried out the fude nib and it turns out that i didn't really like it. I pitched it off to the side for a couple of days intending to try and straighten it just for fun. Well today i tried just that. When i was straightening the front part of the tines one of the tines just behind the tipping broke off. ( I pictured a Fude nib incase someone doesn't know what it is) After the tine broke i evened them up by grinding them and wanted to try re- tipping the tines. I know this is a hard process and there is very specific tools/ materials you are supposed to use, though i was just basically experimenting. I ended up getting pretty close to what i thought re-tipping the nib is with silver solder and a file (however others may laugh at this attempt) though i hit a stump when trying to find a home remedy to cut the slit in the new tipping. The tipping is pictured in the bottom two pictures. I eventually broke off the applied tipping and moved on to another idea. I went on to grind the nib to a stub and smoothed it with some mylar paper. It turned out to be a really smooth grind and the nib seems really well adjusted. I was surprised with how smooth i was actually able to get it! Anyways, It's a funky bowl type looking nib but i kind of dig it now that it is a good broad stub. I don't know how long it will last without tipping or just because all i've put it through, though i plan on using it until it dies! So all in all it was a good experiment outcome at the work table today. I thought i would share! Ps. I was testing and smoothing the nib in my Noodler's nib creaper and dip holder prior for tipping. http://s4.postimg.org/7zbdx7iz1/T2e_C16h_HJGYE9nook_Q_MBQo6_1i_l_60_1.jpg http://s22.postimg.org/ndtmcy04x/20150325_133654_resized.jpg http://s22.postimg.org/7tqu05fe9/20150325_133704_resized.jpg http://s22.postimg.org/vut4nv4tt/20150325_121945_resized.jpghttp://s22.postimg.org/43mltie5t/20150325_121928_resized.jpg

Last time I visited my folks, I swapped my Silver metro F with dad's Charcoal Safari M. I can't live with a metro , so I bought a white MR M. However, this is not the place for my love for metropolitans or nib width of Western and Asian nibs. YOU have already taught me that. Thank YOU. The safari was bugging me for some time, yes it's a great pen (peace to safari haters), but it's pretty boring. So I thought about swapping the nib to an italic. But Lamy replacement nibs are rare here in India and costs almost half of a new pen (900 INR for the nib, ~1700 the pen). So that was not a very good option to try my hand at an italic. SO I kept looking and found a NOS 78g with a broad Stub. Now, what I know already from hanging around with you guys for over a year is that: 1. Stubs are slightly rounded (smoothed) at the corners, thus less scratchy. 2. Cursive Italics have sharper edges and can be a bit scratchy. The ebay listing for the 78g mentioned stub. But I still find it quite scratchy. I've added a writing sample to show off the "always awesome" 78g & my amazingly awkward handwriting. So here are my questions.. 1. Is this a stub or a CI nib ? 2. What can I do to make it a bit smoother ? The pen was dipped in pelikan RB.