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Showing results for tags '400'.
Found 16 results
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I am a younger guy, I purchased from a fpn user a beautiful pelikan 400NN OBB not sure if the nn is appropriate, it was the classic green striped barrel, the nib was perfect for my hand writing position, I carelessly left it on my car roof while working inside a leather organizer, and it flew off the roof, I looked for hours, payed 300 in 2019, and for 3 years have been seeking a replacement in vain, I have found obb nib for sale, but I don't want one that isn't origional to the barrel of the pen, I've periodically searches for a replacement from ebay to here only to never find one, I'm desperate for the affordable luxury writing of that 60s 400 obb it just hurts my heart to think it was taken, the obb nib likely sold for gold spot price where I live, any help you can provide would be met with the utmost gratitude, I have another 400 f nib, it's just not the same...😔
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Hi there everybody! For those of you who know your Sheaffer pens I could really use some knowledge here. My mother has had these 2 mechanical pencils forever now & has been asking me to get information on them & to possibly sell them for years. I finally attempted to do just that for her but it turns out that I had underestimated the Sheaffer company completely. I've found myself certain on a specific model just to find myself back to confusion after descriptions/other models. The 2 pencils to begin with are not of the same set- they both most likely belong to different fountain pens? Underneath the gold band on both of them you can pull that bottom cap off to expose the eraser/lead or twist it to get more lead. I do see that one is "350" and the other "400" but I've only had luck with "white dot" or "military clip" that seem to bump up the price. I believe they may have been paired with a white dot but neither have military clips. They are both celluloid I believe. The smaller/shorter pencil (picture 1+2) I am guessing is pearl black or brown & feels a bit fatter. The longer one (picture 3+4) seems to be marine green. They are kept inside a Sheaffer case that, to me, seems older. It may sound odd but I can just tell by the smell of the inside, hopefully someone knows what I'm talking about. Can anyone on here kindly give me any information and/or an estimate if we were to possibly sell these? I'm a pen lover myself so the thought of selling these kills me but my mother is now ill so I am praying these may help.
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Hi FPN, I have been lurking for quite a while but this is my first post on here. I currently own a TWSBI 580 and a Lamy Safari, both in extra-fine, I have been considering purchasing either an Edison collier or a Pelikan m400 pen. I like my nibs to draw quite thin lines having come from Uni-ball pens, and I do not have access to a local store that sells Pelikan pens, I was wondering if someone could provide writing samples for a Pelikan extra-fine nib so I can try to assess the line-width. Thank you for your time, ~Chris
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Hi all, im not sure what model it is exactly. Anyone can help me out, and tell me where i can get a collar replacement? here are some images of the pen, when needed: https://www.ebay.at/itm/F%C3%BCller-Pelikan-Kolbenf%C3%BCller-400-Schildpatt-Braun-585-Gold-Antik-Rarit%C3%A4t-Ur-Alt/162963880871?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
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Maybe it is known to many Pelikan fans already, of the beauty of vintage tortoise shells. However, I was shocked when I opened the parcel and saw my 400 tortoise for the very first time. This is some otherworldly kind of beauty, breathtaking! The tortoise shells change color from light to dark, from honey to blood red. The rest of the pen is in warm brown color, clearly brown, striking and matching perfectly with the tortoise. I inked it with MB Toffee Brown. Here are my two tortoise pens. The 400 cap and knob matches perfectly with the ink. It has a KM nib, marked on the knob. The nib is KM. To my surprise, the ball-ish nib is still nicely stubbish! And it is smooth, I can rotate my pen a little and still write the same. The nib has script logo, no marking on the cap ring. From what I read, it is made in the early 50s only. It gives line variations. Without pressure it writes like a stub, with subtle line variations. Nice semi-flex. Easier to flex (as in less pressure needed) than my 400nn M nib with bird logo. I have a theory of script nib being better at semi-flex, dont know if you would agree. The nib makes a sound when I write, much more so than my 400nn nib. The sound is similar to my M101n M nib, but I have CI grind on that nib, dont know if that changes the sound. The 400 nib is extremely wet. Toffee brown looks much darker. I will appreciate any suggestions to make the nib dryer. All my birds (less the 400nn, I swapped its nib into M620). The 400 is clearly brown. I am really lucky to acquire a 400 tortoise in this condition. The pen is almost mint, can pass for NOS, if you ignore the old metal look inside the cap. The piston seal is nice, no leak. I applied some oil that came with my TWSBI eco, the piston moves smoothly. I can see through the tortoise under light, to check ink levels. I paid E235 shipped. It is steep, almost the same as a new M400 white tortoise. Well, but it is hard to find one in this condition. I think it is worth the price. Now the 400 is competing against M101n red tortoise for the spot of my favorite pen. I swapped a semi-vintage OB nib into M101n. Cant say which I like better, they are very different pens and nibs.
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Early Pelikan 400 with a strange color change Any explanation for this type of color change? The stripes are uniformly gray on the barrel, where it was not covered by the cap and green where they are covered by the cap.
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I have a Pelikan 400 tortoise (one of the modern re-releases) with a friction fit piston assembly. The piston got stuck and I assumed there was dried ink around the piston head. Curiously there wasn't. Even after knocking out the piston mechanism I cleaned the barrel with q-tips and there wasn't any sign of ink. I put it all back together, cleaned everything, put grease where grease was meant to be....a problem emerged. The piston nob won't screw down tight to the barrel. When I turn the nob to plunge the piston towards the nib, the piston won't go tight to the end of the pen like it used to. Instead there is a short gap just before the end of the barrel and the whole assembly at the other end unravels and falls off, as if the piston spindle is pushing everything out. That is, the nob and mechanism that slots into the nob, but not the section that friction fits into the barrel. So the whole thing comes off in my hand. I tried to re-seat the piston mechanism entire by knocking it out again and putting it back together - same issue. Can anyone help, with straight forward, easy to follow instructions?
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I'm really looking forward to getting my hands on one of these little beauties! September, here in the UK, it seems. Wonderful!
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G'day FPN I know the only real answer to this question is 'try them out!' but all the way down here in Australia there seems to be a scarcity of brick & mortar pen shops, so I'd love to hear from you: Is there any rule of thumb for marrying a pen size to a hand size? theres a lot of talk around the forums of large and small hands, but as it's so subjective what size 'large' hands actually are, and obviously the weight distribution of the actual pen in hand plays a huge part in what makes it balanced or not. the Safari I use at the moment is a little back heavy when posted (those pens are really quite long though) so what factors would lead you to decide between an M400, 600, 800 or 1000 apart from visuals or price? heres a picture of my hand for reference, with a pen we all know and love -Kieran
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Hi guys, looking at potentially getting a Pelikan 400 sometime soon, but, of course, there are so many differnet ones that have been made. Friction fit script, screw in unit script, logo, logo in 400N, logo in 400NN, logo in 400NN M&K... which ones usually will have the most flexibility (or easiest flex)? I won't be using this for calligraphy or anything, but I do like to put some flair on my signatures and writing every so often and I'd love to have some breathing room for how far I can push it. Thanks! (Also, is there anything else I should know before buying one? This kind of purchase always makes me nervous!)
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I am curious about what those of you more experienced and knowledgeable than I am (that would probably be most of you) can tell me about the differences between a pre-1997 Pelikan 600 and a current M600, and also a comparison between the pre-1997 600 and the early 1950's Pelkan 400. The only one I own is a lovely tortoise shell 400, and I do not live remotely close to a shop that has a current M600 or a pre-1997 600, neither of which I have ever held in my hand. Mostly I am intersted in "feel" comparisons, nib-wise and how the weight/size of each translate to in hand feel? I love the 400's semi-flex nib, and it is a thing of beauty. But at other times I also enjoy a slightly bigger, or slightly heavier pen, and sometimes also enjoy less flexible nibs that have less drag. If this comparison has been taken up somewhere already in a posting on this forum that I missed in my search, thanks for pointing me.
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Hi all Pelikan enthusiasts, I keep seeing people recommend older Pelikan pens, specifically 400 models, when people are looking for semi-flexible nibs. Are all older Pelikan nibs semi-flex? BEcause I have also seen many videos with older Pelikans, and they usually have exotic (OB) flexy nibs. If anyone has one, please post photos as I am intrigued and am interested in browsing /purchasing one. Thanks, Tom.
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I have a Pelikan 400 tortoise from the early 1950s. I posted a review here Now that I have a bit more experience looking at nibs under magnification, I've discovered the tines on this extra fine nib were out of alignment and the entire tip of the nib itself is crooked and a bit twisted. I was able to align the tines but the nib is still twisted. Fixing only the alignment leaves the nib very scratchy. Ink flow is very good and I think just as it should be for an EF and even keeps up when I add pressure to my writing to get line variation.It's so scratchy though that I want to get someone to fix it for me. Not sure what my options are; any recommendations?
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Hi everyone ! Recently, I've got a nice 500 from a antique shop.But when I tried to knock the piston unit,I've ruined the barrel.Now I will buy a 400nn brown tortoise parts to replace my 500. Now I have two solutions here 1. Knock the 400nn piston unit out and replace with the 500 piston knob (is it compatible?) 2. Just change the cap and become a 500nn Any another better methods? Thanks
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I have owned a 21st century Pelikan M600 Souveran for a couple years now, and I recently received a first-generation, 1950s-era Pelikan 400 tortoise. (I posted a review of the 400: https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php/topic/252129-pelikan-400-ef-tortoise-1950-1954-review/) anyone have experience with both a vintage 400 flex nib and the modern M1000? I've heard the M1000 is the only modern pelikan with a flexible nib. With my fresh vintage nib experience, I'm wondering how the modern M1000's nib stacks up! thanks in advance for your thoughts.
