Nib smoothing

[amin]

I'd like to take the tooth out of a couple nibs. What materials do I need to do this? Where is the best place to get such materials? Anyone have a link to a a page that describes how best to accomplish the smoothing when I get the proper materials? I don't want to grind to a stub, italic, etc; only to smooth my own nibs.

 

A related question: I have a Parker "51" with a great juicy nib -the only problem is that frequently bits of paper get caught in the iridium point. Why does this happen?

[Claes]

Hi Amin!

 

Our own Wim has written a very good article on this subject:

http://www.pentrace.net/penbase/Data_Retur...icle.asp?id=403

 

Nib picking up bits of paper? Sounds as if you are using a lousy paper and/or

the tines are not adjusted properly. Does the nib scratch?

 

Addendum: sometimes, a slight 'tooth' is useful, to keep the nib

from skidding uncontrollably.

 

Have fun!

Claes in Lund, Sweden

 

http://www.algonet.se/~claesg

Edited February 28, 2006 by Claes

[tryphon]

I'd like to take the tooth out of a couple nibs. What materials do I need to do this? Where is the best place to get such materials? Anyone have a link to a a page that describes how best to accomplish the smoothing when I get the proper materials? I don't want to grind to a stub, italic, etc; only to smooth my own nibs.

 

A related question: I have a Parker "51" with a great juicy nib -the only problem is that frequently bits of paper get caught in the iridium point. Why does this happen?

I send a comprehensive instruction sheet with my nib smoothing kits!

 

Tryphon Pen Care Catalog

[Titivillus]

I'd like to take the tooth out of a couple nibs.  What materials do I need to do this?  Where is the best place to get such materials?  Anyone have a link to a a page that describes how best to accomplish the smoothing when I get the proper materials?  I don't want to grind to a stub, italic, etc; only to smooth my own nibs.

 

A related question: I have a Parker "51" with a great juicy nib -the only problem is that frequently bits of paper get caught in the iridium point.  Why does this happen?

I send a comprehensive instruction sheet with my nib smoothing kits!

 

Tryphon Pen Care Catalog

Could you post the sheet here as well? I'm always looking for more information.

 

 

Kurt H

[tryphon]

I'd like to take the tooth out of a couple nibs.  What materials do I need to do this?  Where is the best place to get such materials?  Anyone have a link to a a page that describes how best to accomplish the smoothing when I get the proper materials?  I don't want to grind to a stub, italic, etc; only to smooth my own nibs.

 

A related question: I have a Parker "51" with a great juicy nib -the only problem is that frequently bits of paper get caught in the iridium point.  Why does this happen?

I send a comprehensive instruction sheet with my nib smoothing kits!

 

Tryphon Pen Care Catalog

Could you post the sheet here as well? I'm always looking for more information.

 

 

Kurt H

Kurt,

the instructions come with the kit and I'd rather advise prospective nib smoothers to get the kit and the instructions... However, those who ordered the kit before we included the instructions are welcome to email me and I will send them the instructions and.. I will post here the first paragraph from our two-page instructions sheet: this is the most important one of all!

Thanks and regards to all,

Giovanni

 

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

 

Before attempting a nib smoothing operation:

 

1. Examine the nib with a powerful loupe. Ideally you will need a 30X loupe, a 10X loupe is the absolute minimum required. Ensure the tines are properly lined up and the gap between them is appropriate for the type of nib. Most scratchy nibs can be made smooth by simply adjusting the tines. Use your fingers or a suitable set of nib pliers.

 

and also, after you begin smoothing the nib:

 

The secret is to know when to stop! A flat spot may give the impression of smooth writing, but in fact provides a very characterless writing experience, akin to using a paint brush!

 

 

Tryphon Catalog - Bookmark it!

[wimg]

Hi Giovanni,

 

Since nib smoothing isn't a craft shrouded in secrecy, and we can all benefit from some insights, would you please care to share the whole leaflet? After all, it can only wet the appetites of people . I certainly am very interested to compare my notes with your insights.

 

TIA, warm regards, Wim

[Glenn-SC]

I believe the man is making money on selling nib smoothing kits and doesn't want to give the instructions away for free because if he did then we might not need his smoothing kit and he would loose money.

[Titivillus]

I believe the man is making money on selling nib smoothing kits and doesn't want to give the instructions away for free because if he did then we might not need his smoothing kit and he would loose money.

I don't think so Glenn as he was so gracious as to post the instructions for his ink additives recently.

 

 

Kurt H

[wimg]

Hi Glenn,

 

I would like to add that in order to do nib smoothing, you need the tools, and I think this is what Giovanni is really selling. By posting it here, I wouldn't expect Giovanni to sell anything less, actually, the opposite would likely be the case, if you ask me.

And you could read my article if you wanted to know how to go about it as well, the one cited by Claes. However, I think it is always nice to see or hear about someone else's views.

 

HTH, warm regards, Wim

[Glenn-SC]

I don't know the man and have never dealt with him positively or negatively so I have was making no judgement about him personally.

 

I will be proven wrong when he posts the instructions.

[wimg]

Hi Glenn,

 

There is nothing to prove wrong, here . Personally I am just interested to see where his instructions are different to mine. And maybe exchange a note or two and have a pleasant little discussion on the topic... BTW, I don't sell the stuff, and don't offer any pen services for sale, so no clash of interest there...

 

Warm regards, Wim

[Roger]

I believe the man is making money on selling nib smoothing kits and doesn't want to give the instructions away for free because if he did then we might not need his smoothing kit and he would loose money.

Sure, or at least I hope he's making money on the kits, Glenn. He's in the business!

 

Also, if you take the time to get familiar with Giovanni's reputation, you'll see that his intentions have never been anything more than to assist his fellow penatics. His entire tool catalog, at excellent prices, gives testimony to that.

 

The fact that he only recently began including instructions should prove that smoothing isn't rocket science. Get a few junkers on which to practice and the appropriate mylar film and learn it the way many of us did. It's intuitive for anyone with a H.S. background in physics.

[tryphon]

Hi Giovanni,

 

Since nib smoothing isn't a craft shrouded in secrecy, and we can all benefit from some insights, would you please care to share the whole leaflet? After all, it can only wet the appetites of people . I certainly am very interested to compare my notes with your insights.

 

TIA, warm regards, Wim

Wim, here's the text. What I can't post is the pictures!

Take care, my friend!

Giovanni

P.S.: quotes only with attribution and URL, thanks!

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Before attempting a nib smoothing operation:

 

1. Examine the nib with a powerful loupe. Ideally you will need a 30X loupe, a 10X loupe is the absolute minimum required. Ensure the tines are properly lined up and the gap between them is appropriate for the type of nib. Most scratchy nibs can be made smooth by simply adjusting the tines. Use your fingers or a suitable set of nib pliers.

 

2. If the iridium is uneven, dull or mis-shapen, start the smoothing operation.

Use the roughest mylar first (9 micron – grey) if major reshaping is

required. Use the mylar wet (water or ink) and make sure it is on a smooth,

flat surface. Finish when the desired, regular shape is achieved. Make sure no

flat spots are present. After reshaping of the iridium, it may be necessary to

polish the inside of the tines. Do this by running the edge of the 3 micron

mylar sheet between the tines, slowly, at an even speed. A couple of inches

length should suffice.

 

Examine the nib often under a loupe. When the proper shape is obtained, proceed with the polishing of the iridium.

 

Start with the second-largest mylar grade (5 micron – grey) and gradually work down to the finest grade (0.3 micron – white). Move slowly and avoid repetitive movements that will create a flat spot (bad!). The secret is to know when to stop! A flat spot may give the impression of smooth writing, but in fact provides a very characterless writing experience, akin to using a paint brush! Remember, use the lightest touch. Experience will show that even a short touch on the mylar, barely caressing the surface, will yield a detectable result. Test the nib often on good paper. Move the nib lightly in a radial fashion on the writing paper, like the spokes of a wheel, starting from the center. This will evidence any imperfections in the iridium. To correct them try a short, very light pass on the mylar in the direction in which the roughness was felt or, and sometimes this is even more effective, in a direction 180º opposite to the one in which the roughness was felt. Finish off by tracing circles and figure 8s, very lightly, over the 0.3 micron sheet.

 

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

 

Tryphon Pen Repair Supplies Catalog

[daveg]

Personally I am just interested to see where his instructions are different to mine.

Are yours posted? I'd be interested in reading anyone's

[Gerry]

Here's one link to Wim's article.

 

 

Wim's Smoothing Article

 

Hope its the most recent...

 

Gerry

[Gerry]

There's a couple of other resources available as well:

 

http://www.marcuslink.com/pens/nibs.html

 

You might also try these threads for additional information...

 

https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/in...indpost&p=40775

 

https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/in...findpost&p=5492

 

Although they often refer to the same articles, there is a lot of info in the thread besides the articles referenced themselves.

 

Furthermore, these only represent a fraction of the threads that can be found when a search for nib smoothing is conducted. Try 'em all!!!

 

Good info on grits, techniques, different approaches etc.

 

Gerry

[KendallJ]

Hi Giovanni,

 

Start with the second-largest mylar grade (5 micron – grey) and gradually work down to the finest grade (0.3 micron – white). Move slowly and avoid repetitive movements that will create a flat spot (bad!).

Just my $0.02, but I would not start with 5 micron mylar. Far too abrasive for a novice nib smoother. I have been able to do all of my major nib work using 1 micron mylar and smaller. I think that until you know what to look for and how to affect a particular change in the nib, then 5 micron is too toothy.

[tryphon]

Hi Giovanni,

 

Start with the second-largest mylar grade (5 micron – grey) and gradually work down to the finest grade (0.3 micron – white). Move slowly and avoid repetitive movements that will create a flat spot (bad!).

Just my $0.02, but I would not start with 5 micron mylar. Far too abrasive for a novice nib smoother. I have been able to do all of my major nib work using 1 micron mylar and smaller. I think that until you know what to look for and how to affect a particular change in the nib, then 5 micron is too toothy.

Kendall,

some people start with 2000 Grit wet and dry sandpaper! Father Terry Koch used an abrasive that was much coarser than the 5 um mylar.

The key is not to exercise too much pressure. It takes a very light touch. It also depends on the amount of polishing needed and whether the radii have to be refined. The finer grades are safer to use, I agree with you about that.

Also, different people use different techniques. This one works for me.

Take care,

Giovanni

[wimg]

Wim, here's the text. What I can't post is the pictures!

Take care, my friend!

Giovanni

Hi Giovanni,

 

Thank you very much!

 

Warm regards, Wim

[KendallJ]

Hi Giovanni,

 

Start with the second-largest mylar grade (5 micron – grey) and gradually work down to the finest grade (0.3 micron – white). Move slowly and avoid repetitive movements that will create a flat spot (bad!).

Just my $0.02, but I would not start with 5 micron mylar. Far too abrasive for a novice nib smoother. I have been able to do all of my major nib work using 1 micron mylar and smaller. I think that until you know what to look for and how to affect a particular change in the nib, then 5 micron is too toothy.

Kendall,

some people start with 2000 Grit wet and dry sandpaper! Father Terry Koch used an abrasive that was much coarser than the 5 um mylar.

The key is not to exercise too much pressure. It takes a very light touch. It also depends on the amount of polishing needed and whether the radii have to be refined. The finer grades are safer to use, I agree with you about that.

Also, different people use different techniques. This one works for me.

Take care,

Giovanni

You nibmeisters are very experienced. I've just found that for a new person learning, one doesn't always know what to look for and how to use very little effort to get the smoothing you want. When I started smoothing, I found that I did a lot of smoothing for little impact. If I used 5 micron film I would have ground the nib up before I was done!