Polishing pens

[Maja]

Hi Dennis,

 

I noticed that in your pen repair DVD (which was very informative--thanks again!), you were using a Dremel tool to polish a pretty celluloid pen (I think it was a Wearever ).

 

I know there are tons of polishing products, techniques and tools out there to choose from, but could you perhaps explain:

 

(a.) Why you like the Dremel for pen polishing?

(b.) Which Dremel model you would recommend for pen polishing? (I noticed they vary in RPM ranges, and speed variability, etc.)

(c.) Which Dremel attachment(s) you would recommend for pen polishing? (again, there are many different ones to choose from..... and there's no way I am going to ask the Home Depot folks to recommend one for my pens!)

 

Thanks in advance!

--Maja

[Dennis Lively]

Maja,

 

The pen in fact was A Wearever from the mid/late 30's. (still looking for the model name). To answer your questions.

 

 

"a.) Why you like the Dremel for pen polishing?"

 

I prefer a Dremel because it is easier on my hands. I repair 30-40 pens a week. (somerimes more if I have the time) The "pressure" you need to use when buffing/sanding a pen can make your hands very tired/sore if you do a lot of pens in a day. I also find it helps things to move a bit faster not to mention it does a much better job in just a couple of minutes than I could do in an hour.

 

"(b.) Which Dremel model you would recommend for pen polishing? (I noticed they vary in RPM ranges, and speed variability, etc.) "

 

I have tried 5 different models and I have settled on the "Multi Pro cordless" It uses a rechargable battery pack. It has 2 settings 15,000 and 7,500 rpm. HOWEVER I use a "weak" battery to keep the rpm's in the 5,000 rpm range.

"well them why don't you just use a 5,000 rpm model then ya doof?" glad you asked...lol. I like the cordless model and I havn't found a cordless model in the 5K range.

 

 

 

"(c.) Which Dremel attachment(s) you would recommend for pen polishing? (again, there are many different ones to choose from"

 

The only thing I use my dremel for (regarding pens that is) is buffing. I don't sand or anything like that with it. For buffing I ONLY use a cloth knapp. I believe it is actually a bunck of layers of linnen sewn together. I also use a big dollop of simichrome to keep the heat down. Like I say in the DVD heat build up is a pen killer. If you decide to use a dremel, start off with true junk pens to practise on. It took me a while before I had the technique down. (Pressure to use, speed of the dremel and how fast to move it on the pen.)

 

They (the dremel folks) sell a polishink kit with a lot of different bits for something in the $10-15.00 range. It has a set of felt buffing bits in it. These will work pretty good if you can't find the linnen piece. A note on the Linnen piece. the first time you use it you will have loose strings flying everywhere because the "edges" arent finished. so all of the loose stuff will fly. Wear your saftey glasses!!

 

Hope this helps some

Dennis

[Keith with a capital K]

This post is not in disagreement with Dennis on the use of a Dremel but is posted mostly to add a few warnings...

 

I am averse to using a Dremel for polishing pens under many circumstances as it's one of those tools that can cause much more harm than good if used improperly and all it takes is a momentary lapse to go from this looks good to "oh (Potty Mouth)".

 

I use the same technique (and Dremel model) that Dennis uses on pens that I know are not heat sensitive as even a cloth wheel with a little simichrome can generate enough heat to seriously damage some pens. Post 40's pens are generally more heat tolerant as they use modern plastics that have a higher resistance to heat although this is not true for all of them.

 

The dremel with the cloth wheel is an excellent polishing tool if it's used carefully and for very short periods of time to prevent heat build-up.

 

Like Dennis said... practice on parts/junk pens before you try this on any of your favourites.

[rsilver000]

Now for my 2 cents. I use a buffing wheel with a rheostat to control the rpms and a special buffing wheel that is made for plastics. It is very loose and was originally developed for buffing plastic lens on cars. Very soft and loosly woven, so no melting of plastic. I restore old cars (1950 MGTD) and so I happen to have this lying around. A buffing wheel can be made very cheaply, but the reostat and the buffing wheel are a few bucks. With the low speed and the loose buff, you can't remove too much material, but it puts a shine on like no other. You must be careful and not use a regular buffing wheel at high speeds or you will melt plastic, throw the pen around, remove imprints etc..

Rob

[Gerry]

Well, if this is a poll, I'll add my favorite tools too.

 

I have limited my Dremel (actually, perhaps we should refer to them as motor tools, since not all are Dremel these days) work pretty much to metal polishing myself. I agree with both Dennis and Keith's comments though. The critical part appears to be the flannel wheel, it being a lot less likely to damage than the smaller, harder felt wheels. I have melted plastic near to the metal I was polishing with the felt wheel so I caution people to be very careful when using them on plastic. Contact area is small, concentrating heat and abrasion in a small area. The flannel wheel, which I believe is a larger diameter, would be safer, as would the lower speed and 'weak battery' approach. I do use the tool on metal parts for polishing with jewellers rouge - where there isn't plating that could be worn away. That is probably best polished by hand.

 

The majority of my plastic polishing is done on a 6" cloth wheel mounted on an arbor off the shaft of a 1/4 to 1/2 hp motor. No, the hp is not a factor - just use one of the slower ones at 1725 rpm, not the 3500 rpm usually found on grinders or fans. The arbors are relatively commonly found @ $5.00 - $7.50 ea, and the wheels at $7.00 - $10.00. The motors are best found at garage sales - usually attached to a furnace fan .

 

The wheels, though sewn in a spiral pattern are still pretty soft on the polishing edge, and the contact area, being relatively large is pretty gentle. There is absolutely no reason for damaging a pen on these wheels if only reasonable care is taken, and it is many times faster than hand polishing.

 

No discussion of polishing would be complete without spending a moment on the polish to be used, my favorites being Lee Valley's White Diamond bar which they sell for polishing wood finishes (part of the Beall system). This is finer than a Tripoli polish, but still contains a fine abrasive which helps remove the fine scratches found on well worn pens. For the final polishing step I use a special 'Plastic" polish [the product I use is Dico - PBC - Plastic] which brings out the glow of a brand new surface to one that used to appear dull and worn. This polish is extremely gentle, and I doubt that it would damage a pen even if misused. It can be slow - which is why I use the Diamond bar on another wheel to prepolish a fairly worn body. I do not mix polishes on a wheel, but rather have a wheel for each polish.

 

I realize that this type of a setup is probably a little excessive for someone only just occasionally polishing a pen, and perhaps hand polishing or the Dremel flannel wheel would be much more agreeable (the Dremels are very useful for many other applications), but if you are doing a lot of polishing, or other polishing - say restoring a car, finishing wood or metal work, the dedicated wheels are just a joy to use, and will polish a pen to perfection in just a few moments.

 

 

Gerry

[Maja]

Thanks for the detailed answers, everyone! This helps a lot

[usasoccerboy]

Aristotles and I, usasoccerboy, do not use a dremel for polishing. I do have a dremel variable speed though which can be used for polishing at its lowest speeds.

 

I used to polish jewelry and remember using a cloth wheel with rouge and all that stuff, but when it comes to polishing pens, Bob and I make a contraption to hold the pen with the contraption in a vise. We then use strips of long rags or towels of a certain type and then it is all in our polishes. The polish used is the trick. If you have ever purchased a pen from Aristotles, you know it when you see it that the polish works. Of course, we also sand before polishing as well.

Edited February 21, 2005 by usasoccerboy