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How often to flush out pen? Ink dependent?


RonB

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I've read the many posts with differing opinions on how often to flush your pen out. It seems to be dependent upon how much it is used and what type of ink is used. For example, most FPNers seem to think that using Noodlers and Private Reserve inks in vintage pens is fine IF you use them every day. Some may disagree with this (Richard and Rick Propas among others?).

 

What if you use the highly saturated inks in your vintage pens but don't write with them over the weekend, for example? Does this require a flushing out or just a dip in water to free up the dried ink? Most of the time, my Parker "51" and Snorkel will write just fine on Monday morning even if I haven't used them and even if I am using Noodlers or PR. Should I flush them out every two weeks regardless? Once a month? Every time I refill? Never?

 

What about Waterman ink? Should I still flush it out every month or so even if I am using it almost every day? In the past, I would flush the pen every time I refilled it, and this has worked fine for me for years but before I started using Noodlers/PR. Is this a good maintenance schedule even with highly saturated inks?

 

I know there will be different opinions on this, but I would like to see the different opinions.

 

Thanks!

 

Ron

Ron

 

Favorite Pens: Parker "51"Lamy 2000; Bexley America the Beautiful; Pilot Custom 823, 912 and 74; Sheaffer Early Touchdown; Parker Vacumatic; Sheaffer Legacy

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I don't think flushing out pens for normal maintenance is something that one should worry about too much. I think I wash out pens on an average about once in one or two months (I don't really think about it, or keep count lol). But what I have found is, I end up washing them out frequently anyway, due to switching inks in pens quite often :lol:

 

Experts may correct me on this, and say it's not adviseable, but I only flush out my pens when I feel there is a need to. I do keep my pens in clean working order (I'm a bit of a hygiene freak :lol: )

 

Flushing with water everytime you refill? It would work - but it would be like changing the oil in your car everyday IMO :lol:

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I know there will be different opinions on this, but I would like to see the different opinions.

What I do:

 

If I change inks in a pen it gets flushed with water.

 

If the pen is being put into storage it gets flushed with water.

 

If it is just a refill it gets filled with ink :lol:

 

 

I do this with all my different ink types and so far have had no problems.

Edited by Tytyvyllus
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I flush out the pen when it is being removed from rotation or I wish to change colour (not often *grin*).

 

A pen will go approx 2 weeks before the flush out, I tend to keep two pens loaded, one each at work and home.Anytime a pen needs a refill it will be flushed with water, just because I can - and of course I find it a nice relaxing procedure.

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Personally, I don't flush out pens if they are getting a refill of the same color, unless there is a feed problem. The lone exception is when using very saturated red inks, like Dakota Red. This ink is very prone to dye precipitation and clogging, so pens using this ink get flushed at every fill to remove all traces of precipitated dye residue. The crusting drives me crazy but I really like the color for editing and grading. (Simlar behavior occasionally happens with Levenger Cardinal Red, another gorgeous saturated red ink.)

 

Otherwise, if an ink color gets changed (pretty rare, as I tend to identify each pen with its particular color) then the pend gets a full flush. "Flush" to me also means a quick trip for the separated converter and nib/feed into the ultrasound bath. It susrprising how much more gunk you get out of a thoroughly flushed nib and feed when you pop it into the ultrasound bath.

 

Cheers.

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If I change inks in a pen it gets flushed with water.

 

If the pen is being put into storage it gets flushed with water.

 

If it is just a refill it gets filled with ink :lol:

 

 

I do this with all my different ink types and so far have had no problems.

Same here.

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My Sheaffer Admiral needs a weekly flush using Noodlers Polar blue. Otherwise it skips and is hard to start. My Pelikan never needs a flush with the same ink. I'm told the Admiral may need an ultrasonic cleaning, but I sort of let the pen tell me when it's time. Unless it is going out of rotation, in which case it gets a thorough flush.

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I only tend to flush pens if I am taking them out of rotation or have been using a saturated ink in it.

 

As long as the pen is being used and is not drying out then I would only flush it in use if I found it had a problem.

 

Basically most of my pens get flushed out about once a year.

 

Jim

Obi Won WD40

Re vera, cara mea, mea nil refert!

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I used to only flush if I was changing colors or putting a pen into storage. I recently started flushing anything loaded with a bulletproof ink about once every 4-6 weeks, following advice that Richard B. gave here. If I used red ink regularly, I think I'd follow the practice of flushing with each refill as well.

Isn't sanity really a one-trick pony, anyway? I mean, all you get is one trick, rational thinking! But when you're good and crazy . . . ooh hoo hoo hoo! . . . the sky's the limit!

--The Tick

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If I am using an ink in the red family I flush with every fill. If a pen has been sitting with a red or burgundy ink in it for more than a few weeks, I'll empty the pen, flush and refill.

 

Pens filled with more saturated inks get flushed with every fill-up. Pens refilled with vintage Skrip just get filled when empty. For example my desk pen gets a fresh filling of vintage Skrip permanent blue black about once a week. I haven;t done a thorough cleaning of that pen since I replaced the sac last summer.

 

I usually have 20-25 pens innked at a time.

Mary Plante

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I usualy have 10 or so pens inked at a shot--probably not a good idea, though I do frequently rotate pens within a given project. At least they get a regular workout.

 

As a rule, I religiously clean them every 3-4 weeks, and am particularly careful to always store them vertically.

 

Working with red or green inks, I cut the cycle to every 2 weeks.

Edited by D.R.Mabuse

Freelance Word Pusher, Societal Leech and Genial Bon Vivant

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Thanks for the responses. As I suspected, we have differing opinions about this, although it appears there is some leaning toward regular flushing with highly saturated inks and vintage pens. Those with modern pens and/or non-saturated inks such as Waterman don't appear to be so strongly "pro-flushing."

 

I wonder if some of the experts such as Richard would recommend regular flushing of modern pens such as Pelikan when using highly saturated inks? It sounds as if they may, from what Sonia mentioned.

 

Ron

Ron

 

Favorite Pens: Parker "51"Lamy 2000; Bexley America the Beautiful; Pilot Custom 823, 912 and 74; Sheaffer Early Touchdown; Parker Vacumatic; Sheaffer Legacy

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My understanding was that Richard's concern was with the bulletproof component, as opposed to just high saturation.

 

It struck me as a good practice for either vintage or modern, although I suspect more of a factor for at least some vintage. A modern Pelikan is pretty easy to take apart and clean thoroughly--a Parker "51" isn't.

Isn't sanity really a one-trick pony, anyway? I mean, all you get is one trick, rational thinking! But when you're good and crazy . . . ooh hoo hoo hoo! . . . the sky's the limit!

--The Tick

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Here is a brief quote from 'Write Thinking' for Fountain Pens:

 

"Clean Up Your Fountain Pen

Absolute Best:

Remove the Nib from the feed and section. Place all parts including cap in an ultrasonic cleaner. Then take the filling system apart and lubricate all moving parts. Brush clean the feed and then reassemble the pen taking care to set the nib square on the feed.

 

Hint: By leaving the cap on the back of the pen and cleaning it last, you can use it as a guide to reposition the nib in its original Slot or key.

 

Note: Most modern convertors, and pistons can be dissembled with the right tools and "know how." This does not include a hammer.

 

Best:

In the store we use an ultrasonic machine (jewelry cleaner) with a mix of three parts water to one part sudsy ammonia. Do not let the water get hot. Do not clean any part of the pen that is celluloid in this solution. It is advisable to rinse before and after with cool tap water. Allow all parts that will come in contact with ink to complete dry.

 

Hint: In a pinch Windex with Ammonia works as a cleaning solution straight out of the bottle.

 

Note: I have seen jewelry cleaners in stores like K-Mart or Walmart for as little as $25.00 in the Jewelry Department

 

Second Best:

Cleaning your Fountain Pen

There is a regular monthly maintenance procedure that you should follow with your fountain pen. It is recommended that you flush your fountain pen with cool, clear water on a monthly basis. The easiest way to flush a pen that has a converter or piston is to draw clear water as you would ink, expel the water, and repeat this until the water coming out of your pen is clear. It is a repetitive process that may take a little while, but it is necessary. You should also do the flush whenever you change ink colors or brands. You can also remove the convertor clean that part on its own by filling and emptying, Then run cool water from the tap through the back of the pen blowing through it until the ink color is gone. Remember to blow dry or air dry the nib section and convertor completely.

 

Hint: When you blow through the pen keep your head deep in the sink to avoid splatter.

 

If the water you expel from the fountain pen doesn't lose color after persistent flushing, and your pen and it is NOT made of celluloid, you may use a mix of 3:1 solution of water to sudsy ammonia Fountain pen ink is ammonia soluble and this solution will break down any dried ink that cannot be loosened with plain water. Be advised: Celluloid is also ammonia soluble, so DO NOT use this solution if you pen is celluloid. When in doubt, just use the water.

 

Hint: Clean out the cap of the pen too, If you don't and ink is present, it might flow down on the nib and make the pen appear to be leaking even if the ink appears to be dry on the inside of the cap. Moisture (evaporation) from the ink in the pen will hydrate the ink in the cap after filling and capping."

 

Please note to not miss rinsing the cap at cleaning time. Many times the fountain pen body, nib and feed had been cleaned throughly, to only be undone by replacing the cap that still contains ink, usually this is not discovered until the pen is used again, meaning upon removing the cap, and to your surprise, ink will be seen on the nib.

Hawk

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Thanks, Hawk.

 

I just read Richard's page about maintenance and it says:

 

In reference to all inks: "...This means that it’s a good practice to flush and refill your pens once a month or so."

 

"...If you are using a clog-prone ink, you should avoid storing pens that are filled with ink for more than a week or so."

 

I don't know whether or not Parker "51"s and Snorkels are considered clog-prone. In my experience, they are not.

 

If I am reading Richard's article correctly, it appears his advice applies to all inks, not just bullet-proof inks. But it is probably more important with regard to bulletproof and highly saturated inks.

 

I should have consulted Richard's site before, but I didn't realize he had this information posted there!

 

Ron

Ron

 

Favorite Pens: Parker "51"Lamy 2000; Bexley America the Beautiful; Pilot Custom 823, 912 and 74; Sheaffer Early Touchdown; Parker Vacumatic; Sheaffer Legacy

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