Advice on using a Rotring Rapidograph, please.

[Steph Dale]

I've had this pen for the best part of twenty years:

 

http://www.euram-online.co.uk/rapidograph.jpg

 

To the best of my knowledge it's never been filled - mainly because I don't know how to. I've had a good look round this forum, but got completely baffled by the varying descriptions of Koh-i-noor and Tintenkuli, so thought I'd be better off asking a direct question!

 

In short, I'd dearly love to try using this pen but have never even managed to work out how to fill it - I have it's tatty box (enough to tell it's item number 1012), but have never had the instructions. The engineering geek in me loves the idea of using something so unusual and I'm hoping someone on this forum can tell me what I should do to get it working, care for it and even what sort of ink I should be using - there certainly seems to be a lot of good info here! I'd also be interested to know roughly how old it is - even if only for my personal amusement.

 

I look forward to any and all responses.

 

Many thanks,

 

Steph

Bristol, UK

Edited August 22, 2009 by Steph Dale

[sumgaikid]

I've had this pen for the best part of twenty years:

 

http://www.euram-online.co.uk/rapidograph.jpg

 

To the best of my knowledge it's never been filled - mainly because I don't know how to. I've had a good look round this forum, but got completely baffled by the varying descriptions of Koh-i-noor and Tintenkuli, so thought I'd be better off asking a direct question!

 

In short, I'd dearly love to try using this pen but have never even managed to work out how to fill it - I have it's tatty box (enough to tell it's item number 1012), but have never had the instructions. The engineering geek in me loves the idea of using something so unusual and I'm hoping someone on this forum can tell me what I should do to get it working, care for it and even what sort of ink I should be using - there certainly seems to be a lot of good info here! I'd also be interested to know roughly how old it is - even if only for my personal amusement.

 

I look forward to any and all responses.

 

Many thanks,

 

Steph

Bristol, UK

 

 

Steph, MYU(aka Gary)collects those and he could give you a good idea how to use it. Shoot him a

PM--I'm sure he'll be more than happy to show you what to do.

 

John

[I am not a number]

Hi Steph, we have a few Rotring experts here, have a look at this potted history by Myu (one of the other moderators - he's on hols in Paris at the moment but will be back here soon). In the meantime hopefully one of the others will be able to chip in. The pen in your picture looks almost to be a piston filler, does the knob at the end turn?

[Raiche58]

Thanks all for this rich, well documented thread. I love rapidographs but must admit to being completely oblivious to their origins. There is a pen in the movie--Tim Burton's Sleepy Hollow--that I adore because it has the rapidograph asethetic, but it is a movie craft shop creation that was fashioned from a hypodermic needle--which in my mind--takes absolutely nothing away from it!

 

Anyway, I am mostly contributing to this thread because I want it to stay active. The rapidograph is a pen that--right or wrong--speaks to me almost the same way a fountain pen does. Thanks to all who inform us about this writing instrument!

[TheHOINK]

Aloha-he from germane...

 

If you, dearest Steph Dale, are interested in Rapidographs....

 

The biggest problem, especially with elder models, ist that mostly the tip has dried up.

 

Rapidographs, Isographs, Tntenkulis use a small piece of "wire", you might say, metal, like a needle, inside a small metal "tube", to make the ink flow.

The needle is maybe 0.1mm longer than the tube, so a working rapidograph can be identified easily.

Just watch the nib closely with the pen held nib down.

 

If you cannot see a needle going outside, it is likely to be something with a dried up nib.

Even IF the balance weight inside of the drawing corpus is clicking while shaking the pen it can be the needle is broken.

Since your pen shows a red indication I persume it is 0.18m in diametre.

 

Colour Coding for Isographs is internationally clarified.

 

0.13 purple

0.18 red

0.25 white

0.35 yellow

0.5 brown

0.7 blue

1.0 orange

1.4 green

2.0 grey.

 

I am using isographs since 7 years now, and have around 90, different brands, new, vintage, for acid inks and transparent papers to normal ones, your type I do not own, I am sorry, therefore I can not help you properly.

IF you are interested in some more modern ones, I would be glad to offer you one or two, just for the shipping fees, but with larger diametres like 0.7mm or 1.0mm, i still have a lot of these.

 

Anyone else can ask, too, around 10 must be still avaiable around here. Just have to look up the sizes, brands and amount.

 

Just let me know when you are interested.

 

And by the way... Noodlers ink ha become some sort of grail for my Isographs. It is of a better water resistancy than chinese ink or rapidograph chineese ink, smears less and is more carefree, since it does not coontain pigments and does not clogg my pens this fast.

 

Since I discovered Noodlers I use my Rapidographs and Isographs daily ^_^

 

TheHOINK

 

Edit:

Isographs: Designed for refilling with eyedroppers, can be taken apart for cleaning the needle, if absolutely necessary. Needle and drawing corpus are one piece.

Rapidographs: for the use with cartridges, more carefree, but more expensive, I don't like them personally.

Edited August 22, 2009 by TheHOINK

[I am not a number]

It looks like an orange (1.0mm) to me but the barrel seems to indicate 1.2mm, however the information on using Noodlers in Rapidographs is great - I may have to give them another go!

Edited August 22, 2009 by I am not a number

[TheHOINK]

I am not a Number, I had the idea because Chinese ink, especially for rapidographs is so dark and black because of pigments.

The main reason why isographs collapse or dry up is because of the pigments, who built up some sediments inside the tube/needle, like you maybe know Just wanted to state for everybody else here.

 

So, noodlers is more water-resistant and blacker on paper with a lot of my fountainpens.

in Comparison it is even more black and water resistant than any of the 7 rapidograph inks brands I have tried.

And my Isographs since then are a pleasure to use, not a necessary evil like the 4 years before.

 

I tried Noodlers in them, and therefore have around 20 bottles of Isograph ink to hand out to interested people for dip-pens or so... since I do not recommed them any more for technical writing instruments.

 

If anyone is interested, I make a list for all the isographs with 0.7, 1.0, 1.4 mm I still have doubled and all the inks I can give away.

 

So, let me know about your experiences with Noodlers in technical drawers, I am highly interested if you experience the same pleasure. ^_^

 

Thanks.

TheHOINK

[Steph Dale]

Thanks for all your help guys.

 

I shall see if I can get mine working over the weekend. For those that have remarked, yes I can confirm that the pen is a 1.2mm, it says so on the barrel and the nib unit. And yet the colour band is orange. As a long term user of Rotring's Isograph pens for drafting I'd always thought that to be a bit strange!

 

Thanks also for the thoughts on Noodler's ink - I'll try to find a UK source.

 

The pen looks to be in fine working condition, it rattles nicely (as all Variant/Rapidograph nibs do!) and I can see that the wire is in place, so I've no worries there.

 

It's going to be fun to see how I get on with this

 

Steph

Bristol, UK

[kazushizuku]

Oh, thanks for this thread-- never thought about using any FP ink on a rapidograph or isograph before.

 

Now I shall run off to play with the needle-tips! Thanks!

[TheHOINK]

A big, fat advantage in ink is, you can work out pretty colourful pictures with it, be it in small lines or pointilistic ways like the rhino-beetle or the cikada I did.

And the colours are up to you, in a biger variety than any felt tipped, prefilled liner can give to you.

 

And when they are light resistant and waterproof, this is the way to go! ^_^

Since discovering noodlers, i LUV my Isographs even more! ^_^

 

Please, share your experiences about your isographs containing ink, I'd be glad to hear other opinions, too.

 

Cordialement

TheHOINK

[Steph Dale]

Thanks to the help, links, thoughts and warm wishes I have managed to get my Rapidograph filled today. :clap1:

 

It's got a much smoother feel than I expected and isn't anywhere near as critical to the 15-degree placement of the Rotring drafting pens I'm used to, so it's actually pretty comfortable to use! I suspect it'll still need a bit of time to get the tip to really flow - that is something I'm used to with all tubular-nib Rotrings. I used to wonder if they were 'treated' in some way as they all seem to work better after some use and their first proper clean.

 

It's currently loaded with Rotring's drafting ink (as I use in my Variant and Isograph pens) which is good enough to tell it works. The lines seem a bit 'faded', so I think the ink must be due for replacement - it always seems to get thinner/paler as it gets older, no matter what the colour is.

 

@ TheHOINK

I've followed your recommendation for the Noodler's ink and have just ordered a bottle, which should arrive this week. I'll be interested to see how I, the Rapidograph and maybe even my other Rotring fountain pens get on with it. I'll let you know how I get on!

 

And if you get that list of your spare Isographs and inks done, please send me a copy - I've still got a few of the larger Isograph sizes that would be useful and even some of the smaller ones I've got are now a bit old and tired!

 

Once again, many thanks.

 

Steph

Bristol, UK

[Splicer]

My experience with the vintage Rapidographs is that when in proper repair they flow more freely than their modern counterparts. Since Noodlers is much much wetter and thinner than the India ink these pens were designed for... well, I'm not saying don't try it, but the first time you should probably try it somewhere safe where a spill won't cause problems.

[indigirl]

WOW. The idea of using fountain pen ink in a rapidograph has just totally rocked my world! :blink: I used to be so addicted to my rapidographs 20+ years ago (well before ever even thinking of fountain pens) that I often spoke of "smoking my rapidograph" (like a chainsmoker I always had a rapidograph in my hand, & my koh-i-noors were cigarette-white too). Anyway it's been a while since I "moved on" to fountain pens & non-black inks, but dang! I just put a bit of Noodler's Walnut in the old thing & my mind is reeling w/ possibilities.... Thanks again, FPN! It's great being here.

[TheHOINK]

Alohagain...

 

So it worked out for you, too.

 

I did not have the experience of ink being more liquid than chinese / india Ink. Sure, I made some tests with brushes, fountain pens etc in before for comparing. And the first times using a new tool, it is vital to work where it cn not cause a mes, whether it is a rapidograph, a brush or a high end class fountain pen, which can drip, too, from time to time.

Anything else would be careless....

 

It works very well for me, no dripping and no more puddles.

 

Thanks for sharing the experience ^_^

 

Cordialement

TheHOINK

[acolythe]

While in university I took all my notes with a Rapidograph just like this one. except it was the brown (o.7) mm nib. I found it recently and the screw plunger seems to not draw ink. The nib is in good condition nd the wire works. I wonder who repairs such pens? I always used Parker and Pelikan fountain pen in k in mine with no problems

 

 

 

My experience with the vintage Rapidographs is that when in proper repair they flow more freely than their modern counterparts. Since Noodlers is much much wetter and thinner than the India ink these pens were designed for... well, I'm not saying don't try it, but the first time you should probably try it somewhere safe where a spill won't cause problems.

[ZeissIkon]

While in university I took all my notes with a Rapidograph just like this one. except it was the brown (o.7) mm nib. I found it recently and the screw plunger seems to not draw ink. The nib is in good condition nd the wire works. I wonder who repairs such pens? I always used Parker and Pelikan fountain pen in k in mine with no problems

 

That sounds like a dried out piston seal -- pens made up into the 1970s, at least, had cork seals. First thing to try is swelling the cork with water. If you can get the piston unit out, just soaking the piston in water will likely do it; if not, you might try removing the nib unit (may require a proprietary wrench that should have come with the pen long, long ago) and putting a few drops of water into the barrel and letting the pen stand nib end up overnight or for a couple days.

 

If that doesn't work, it's probably possible to replace the cork, either with another piece of suitable cork or with a string of O-rings (several in a row will act more or less like a single piston, if they're sized correctly); a little silicone grease, in either case, will help things along. The good thing is that actual technical pens were designed to be maintained rather than replaced, at least into the 1980s -- so this maintenance is almost certainly possible with the correct tools and knowledge of how the piston system comes apart.

[acolythe]

Many thanks I will give it a try

BArry

 

 

While in university I took all my notes with a Rapidograph just like this one. except it was the brown (o.7) mm nib. I found it recently and the screw plunger seems to not draw ink. The nib is in good condition nd the wire works. I wonder who repairs such pens? I always used Parker and Pelikan fountain pen in k in mine with no problems

 

That sounds like a dried out piston seal -- pens made up into the 1970s, at least, had cork seals. First thing to try is swelling the cork with water. If you can get the piston unit out, just soaking the piston in water will likely do it; if not, you might try removing the nib unit (may require a proprietary wrench that should have come with the pen long, long ago) and putting a few drops of water into the barrel and letting the pen stand nib end up overnight or for a couple days.

 

If that doesn't work, it's probably possible to replace the cork, either with another piece of suitable cork or with a string of O-rings (several in a row will act more or less like a single piston, if they're sized correctly); a little silicone grease, in either case, will help things along. The good thing is that actual technical pens were designed to be maintained rather than replaced, at least into the 1980s -- so this maintenance is almost certainly possible with the correct tools and knowledge of how the piston system comes apart.

[TheHOINK]

Aloha again and a wonderful (whatever daytime you might be reading this...)

 

 

I promised to make a list of what I am going to hand forward or sell, whatever the case.

I just collected all my isograph stuff together and made a picture of it.

 

As soon as the list is compkleted of what I wanna share and give away for postage, I will let you know.

But, to be honest, I have an idea which could be a great thing, I will let you know in a few hours (to say this evening wuld be frustrating thinking about all the different timezones existing)

 

http://img146.imageshack.us/img146/7426/dsc0012002.jpg

 

 

 

Cordialement

TheHOINK

Edited August 25, 2009 by TheHOINK

[Steph Dale]

TheHOINK, good (evening here, now) to you too!

 

Nice collection that ;-)

 

I'm still trying to pick up Isograph F and Isograph P as I still do a lot of work on film. Very tricky to find these days... :-(

 

Thankfully the normal Isograph pens work well on coated drafting film though I've only got six or seven sizes.

 

The old Rotring 'Variant' pen still has its uses and I've got a couple of those too.

 

Steph

[TheHOINK]

Aloha-he, and a wonderfull (whatever daytime you might be reading this...

 

I just made a list, but have not finished it yet.

I am awaiting a response to a PM I made, I have been fortunate enough to get a lot of things needed for iillustrational and graphical work, like all this rapidographs and Isographs.

 

I once had the chance to get a big fat package with 92 Rapidographs and Isographs for a small percentage of their worth.

A store had gone "insolvent", I do not know the proper english term for it.

They could not pay their bills any more and therefore had to close, and the rest of their stock was sold to pay as much as possible from open bills.

 

Another thing I got have been around 500 Mechanical pencils, 0.5mm, missprints, where the supposed commercial print did went wrong, and the are simple, more than 20 years old, but hey, they all work.

Pencilshaped.

 

And I received once Watercolours from Schmincke something like 900 pieces, Old stock of colours not produced any longer.

I am going to put them here for small money up to nothiing, for sale, sharing, charity, whatsoever, I do not know.

Let's await the PM.

 

And to give you a list, I put here, what I am already willing to sell.

And yes, I do have more, especially on Isograph F and P, Which I might be selling. You will be the first one I will be informing, Mr. Dale.

 

Thanks a lot for the ime reading my post and have fun with a "small" list......

 

________________________________________________________________________________

______________________

 

Isographs / Rapidographs

 

Helit Roller Blotter for Dyring Ink in Box – 1

Helit Roller Blotter for Drying Ink NOS – 1

Helit Roller Blotter Spare Rolls - 3

 

 

Rotring Drawing Ink Permanent Black 1oz./30ml. - 2

Rotring Isographs / Rapidographs Pen Station - 5

Rotring Isograph Spare Barrels - 7

Rotring Pressure Bulb for Cleaning Isographs / Rapidographs - 1

 

Rotring Isograph Steel Nib 0.13mm – 2 (One New and never Inked, One with dried up nib)

Rotring Isograph Steel Nib Replacement 0.13mm – 1

Rotring Isograph Steel Nib 0.18mm – 2 (One New and never Inked, One with dried up nib)

Rotring Isograph 0.5mm – 2 (2 New and never inked, One without Cap)

Rotring Isograph F Gold Nib 1.0mm – 4 (One without Cap, all new and never inked)

Rotring Isograph F Gold nib Replacement 1.0mm - 1

Rotring Isograph P Hardened Steel Nib for Film & Paper / Acid Permanent Inks 2.0mm - 1

 

Rotring Rapidograph Steel Nib 0.25mm – 1 (Barrel, Cap, Clutch Ring, No Nib & Cartridge, Spare Parts)

Rotring Rapidograph Steel Nib 0.35mm – 1

Rotring Rapidograph Steel Nib 0.35mm – 1 (Barrel, Cap, Clutch Ring, No Nib & Cartridge, Spare Parts)

Rotring Rapidograph Steel Nib 0.5mm – 1 without cap, 1 dried up nib

Rotring Rapidograph Steel Nib 0.5mm – 1 (Barrel, Cap, Clutch Ring, No Nib & Cartridge, Spare Parts)

Rotring Rapidograph Steel Nib 0.7mm – 4 (3 New and never inked, One with dried up nib)

Rotring Rapidograph F Gold Nib 1.0mm – 5 (4 New and never inked, One with dried up nib)

Rotring Rapidograph F Gold Nib Replacement 1.0mm - 1

 

Rotring Rapidoliner 0.35mm – 1

Rotring Rapidoliner 0.5mm - 1

 

Rotring Finograph Fineliner Felt Tipped 0.3mm working - 1

 

 

Staedtler India Ink Black 1oz./30ml. - 1

Staedtler India Ink Blue 1oz./30ml. - 1

Staedtler India Ink Brown 1oz./30ml. - 1

Staedtler India Ink Green 1oz./30ml. - 1

Staedtler India Ink Violet 1oz./30ml. - 3

Staedtler India Ink Yellow 1oz./30ml. - 1

 

Staedtler Marsmagno2 0.25mm – 2 (one with broken Barrel)

Staedtler Marsmagno2 0.35mm – 1

Staedtler Marsmagno2 1.0mm - 1

Staedler Marsmagno2 Circle Adapter - 3

Staedtler Marsmagno2 Replacement Nibs 0.13mm - 1

Staedtler Marsmagno2 Replacement Nibs 0.25mm - 2

Staedtler Marsmagno2 Replacement Nibs 0.7mm - 1

 

Staedtler Marsmatic Cartridges 5 per Pack – 8

 

Staedtler Marsmatic 700 0.18 – 1 dried up nib (needs replacement nib)

Staedtler Marsmatic 700 0.35mm – 1 Cleaned

Staedtler Marsmatic 700 1.0mm – 2 New

Staedlter Marsmatic 700 1.4mm - 1

Staedtler Marsmatic 757 Replacement Tips Duranite 1.4mm - 5

Staedtler Marsmatic Jewel Replacement Tips for Film & Paper 1.0mm – 5

Staedtler Marsmatic Replacement Tips for Paper

Staedtler Marsmatic Replacement Tips for Paper

Staedtler Marsmatic Replacement Tips for Paper

 

Staedtler Mars Razor India Ink Eraser Strings suitable for Tikkys - 8

 

________________________________________________________________________________

_____________________

 

 

Schmincke Water Colours /Aquarellistic Colours

 

 

http://img401.imageshack.us/img401/1075/dsc0172002.jpg

 

 

Brilliant Green 1 Half – 3

Brilliant Orange 1 Full - 1

Brilliant Orange 2 Full – 4

Brilliant Orange 2 Half – 9

Brilliant Purpur / Purple Full – 1

Brilliant Purpur / Purple Half – 6

Brilliant Red 1 Full – 2

Brilliant Red 2 Half - 10

Brilliant Turquoise Full – 14

Brilliant Turquoise Half – 5

Brilliant Violet Full - 2

Brilliant Yellow Green Half - 6

Brilliant Yellow Light Half – 25

Carmine Full – 18

Cobalt Green Deep Full – 7

Cobalt Violet Deep Half - 4

Golden Ochre Half - 31

Magenta Half – 64

Opaque Green Light Imitated Full - 2

Permanent Orange Full - 2

Permanent Red 3 Full - 24

Permanent Red 3 Half - 63

Permanent Violet Half – 8

Stil de Grain Vert / Pink Green Half – 1