... Homemade Pen Sleeve ...

[my63]

The issue of chrome tanned leather has come up many times

 

http://www.blcleathertech.com/information/chrome-tanning.htm

 

I usually buy clothing grade leather from a reputable supplier I have never heard anyone say their leather jacket had damaged the zip or poppers.

 

I look forward to seeing how your design develops over time I wonder if it could be incorporated into a book cover or with elastic to make a closure.

 

Michael

[scrivelry]

I usually buy clothing grade leather from a reputable supplier I have never heard anyone say their leather jacket had damaged the zip or poppers.

 

Michael

I have several pieces of leather clothing I have purchased second hand for just such a purpose - now which pen will look best in the green-almost-grey suede...

 

T

[DanF]

The issue of chrome tanned leather has come up many times

 

http://www.blcleathertech.com/information/chrome-tanning.htm

 

I usually buy clothing grade leather from a reputable supplier I have never heard anyone say their leather jacket had damaged the zip or poppers.

 

I look forward to seeing how your design develops over time I wonder if it could be incorporated into a book cover or with elastic to make a closure.

 

Michael

The link you posted addresses safety for humans, has nothing to do with corrosion of some metals. My guess is that most snaps, buttons, or zippers are not plated with rhodium, gold, or silver.

 

I am no expert on chemistry, only repeating what I have read here, which is that some people have reported pens being damaged prolonged contact with chromium tanned leather products.

 

Dan

[my63]

There are reports that chromium salts can cause oxidisation in some metals however as far as I understand gold silver and rhodium do not oxidise.

Sorry for hijacking your thread TMLee.

Michael

[alc3261]

I'll have to look at this kind of design in fabric.

[TMLee]

Maybe a crescent top with an eyelet for a lanyard, or eyelets top and bottom to allow a piece of elastic (or fancier stuff) to be put between.. Then the sleeve could be attached to a journal while also holding it closed.

 

The simplicity is definitely the beauty of this though.

 

 

Hmmmm ....

 

thanks for your ideas , but there's a nice solution to that already ...

 

https://www.google.com/search?q=pen+quiver&client=firefox-a&hs=Dm&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=FvSHUv-QFIX3rQfh9oDYCg&ved=0CDsQsAQ&biw=1219&bih=588

[TMLee]

Very elegant TMLee I think there are some good options above,

I know how hard it is to sew leather I think you are doing very well.

Michael

 

 

Thanks for your encouraging words ..

[TMLee]

I think with your design the issue would be finding the right material that has a balance of stiffness for protection and flexibility for ease of access. I have a couple of pens sleeves with single openings on the end and it is often difficult to get pens out of them when they are new. I really like the solution you came up with.

 

 

hmmm ...

 

I am not sure I understand you....

I thought these types of sleeves with the single opening - allows the pen to come out too easily ...

 

... and where is that " hmmmm " emoticon ????

I remember we use to have them ...

 

...

[TMLee]

It seems that people say that it is only the vegetable tanned leather that is suitable for pen cases, as the others tend to degrade the metal plating on pens. I'm pretty sure that vegetable tanned leathers are relatively stiff, not flexible, and not suited to this sort of design. Might want to check into that before getting too involved with this project. I might be wrong about this, but it's worth checking out.

 

Dan

 

 

The issue of chrome tanned leather has come up many times

 

http://www.blcleathertech.com/information/chrome-tanning.htm

 

I usually buy clothing grade leather from a reputable supplier I have never heard anyone say their leather jacket had damaged the zip or poppers.

 

I look forward to seeing how your design develops over time I wonder if it could be incorporated into a book cover or with elastic to make a closure.

 

Michael

 

 

I have several pieces of leather clothing I have purchased second hand for just such a purpose - now which pen will look best in the green-almost-grey suede...

 

T

 

 

The link you posted addresses safety for humans, has nothing to do with corrosion of some metals. My guess is that most snaps, buttons, or zippers are not plated with rhodium, gold, or silver.

 

I am no expert on chemistry, only repeating what I have read here, which is that some people have reported pens being damaged prolonged contact with chromium tanned leather products.

 

Dan

 

 

There are reports that chromium salts can cause oxidisation in some metals however as far as I understand gold silver and rhodium do not oxidise.

Sorry for hijacking your thread TMLee.

Michael

 

 

Oh darn ...

 

now I have to worry abt chrome tanned leather ...

 

maybe have to incorporate an inner lining inside the sleeve ?

[TMLee]

I'll have to look at this kind of design in fabric.

 

Yes ...

 

I thought about that too , but decided to go with the leather option ...

[Scribblesoften]

hmmm ...

 

I am not sure I understand you....

I thought these types of sleeves with the single opening - allows the pen to come out too easily ...

 

... and where is that " hmmmm " emoticon ????

I remember we use to have them ...

 

...

When the leather is stiff and new it can be difficult to get pens out when they are pushed down in the sleeve. Your design avoids this.

[TMLee]

Thanks "my63" for your pics ...

 

I was working on the pen sleeve when you posted your reply ...

 

I googled youtube on how to burnish leather ...

 

so in my excitement to experiment I quickly brought out my Dremel tool ,

then took out my still relatively unused stick of drawer wax ...

 

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/Stationery%20Paraphernalia/One%20piece%20Leather%20Pen%20sleeve/001.jpg

 

After a few attempts at burnishing with the hard felt burnishing tool ...

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/Stationery%20Paraphernalia/One%20piece%20Leather%20Pen%20sleeve/002.jpg

 

I only did the stitched end,

leaving the slot opening untouched, cos I wanted to see if there was going to be any marked difference...

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/Stationery%20Paraphernalia/One%20piece%20Leather%20Pen%20sleeve/003.jpg

 

I was quite happy it worked at least a bit, for a first try ..

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/Stationery%20Paraphernalia/One%20piece%20Leather%20Pen%20sleeve/004.jpg

 

What I need now is the correct tool ...

I need a concave groove shaped thingy to burnish the two lips towards each other....

now its like the burnishing can push them apart ...

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/Stationery%20Paraphernalia/One%20piece%20Leather%20Pen%20sleeve/005.jpg

 

 

A few questions :

 

1) How do you keep the two lips together?

 

2) my edges still are rough. How does one improve upon this? Apply edge paint/dresser ?

 

3) Am i using the right wax?

I remembered I had this disc of wax for waxing thread...

Tried with it.

Dont see any difference.

Am I to continue applying more wax?

 

4) your pricking iron , what size is it ? 1.5mm ? 2mm ?

Does one need a set of pricking irons in various sizes?

(I am thinking of buying a 1 tine / 10 tine pair. To buy more is rather costly)

 

 

 

Edited November 18, 2013 by TMLee

[my63]

Sorry have I been posting in the wrong thread too much medication I am afraid that is why I am not using any tools at the moment.

 

It looks like you have not glued your seams before stitching. You could use your edge coat first to form the bond then use the wax to smooth it out.

I bought a set of irons from china I will find the link if you wish

 

Michael

[scrivelry]

It is possible to sew garment weight and slightly heavier weight leather on a regular home sewing machine, if done with care.

 

I have a hand-crank attached to one of my machines, which allows you to place each stitch perfectly where you want it, but you can get the same effect by turning the wheel at the right of the machine by hand - it's just a bit easier sometimes with the crank. The leather tears less if you use large round needles instead of the triangular diameter leather needles, I am told - I have insufficient experience to say for sure.

 

-I would not do this with a 5,000 dollar machine but that's partly because you don't need any of the fancy stuff those machines have to do it, it's just straight stitching, which any old black cast iron machine will probably do.

 

Using upholstery weight nylon thread and tying off the ends instead of back tacking it could look quite decent. I will see if I can try it later and get a picture.

 

T

[TMLee]

Sorry have I been posting in the wrong thread too much medication I am afraid that is why I am not using any tools at the moment.

 

It looks like you have not glued your seams before stitching. You could use your edge coat first to form the bond then use the wax to smooth it out.

I bought a set of irons from china I will find the link if you wish

 

Michael

 

 

No worries , take care ...

 

Yes you are right, I did not glue the seams before stitching.

 

I shall try your suggestion.

 

Thanks for the pics ...

 

How big is one tine ? The hole it creates ?

 

I am looking for small prongs as I look at the small leathercraft that I will only make.

[TMLee]

It is possible to sew garment weight and slightly heavier weight leather on a regular home sewing machine, if done with care.

 

I have a hand-crank attached to one of my machines, which allows you to place each stitch perfectly where you want it, but you can get the same effect by turning the wheel at the right of the machine by hand - it's just a bit easier sometimes with the crank. The leather tears less if you use large round needles instead of the triangular diameter leather needles, I am told - I have insufficient experience to say for sure.

 

-I would not do this with a 5,000 dollar machine but that's partly because you don't need any of the fancy stuff those machines have to do it, it's just straight stitching, which any old black cast iron machine will probably do.

 

Using upholstery weight nylon thread and tying off the ends instead of back tacking it could look quite decent. I will see if I can try it later and get a picture.

 

T

 

Yes, I heard of people using home sewing machines to stitch leather.

 

Again, I am totally new to handling a domestic sewing machine.

[my63]

 

 

No worries , take care ...

 

Yes you are right, I did not glue the seams before stitching.

 

I shall try your suggestion.

 

Thanks for the pics ...

 

How big is one tine ? The hole it creates ?

 

I am looking for small prongs as I look at the small leathercraft that I will only make.

It is much easier to work once the seams are fixed by the glue.

With regard to the tines I do some times punch right through with the chisel however if you just want fine holes you can use a lighter tap with the hammer and just mark the leather, and then use an awl to make the hole.

Awls are designed to make a diamond shaped hole that closes up after some time.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/140972050249?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

 

These are the chisels I bought the seem to do the job very well, if you use a six tine punch put the next punch in the last hole made by the previous punch that will help to keep the holes in line.

 

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7343/10766870966_94cc292e3d_z.jpg

IMG_5621 by my0771, on Flickr

 

This is my latest effort I did it two weeks ago and the holes have really closed up now and are quite tight around the thread.

If you want to see how it was made :-

https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php/topic/255117-making-a-pen-case/

 

Michael

[TMLee]

wow ! Those are some nice looking pen cases

 

I like the camel coloured one. Somehow it looks just great !

 

Thanks for the link to your other post.

It was helpful.

 

Thanks for explaining the diamond tipped awl.

I had always wondered how and why it was different from a round tipped awl.

Well Now I know ...

 

 

 

I took your advice and used the edge finisher to glue the seams together.

 

After drying, I finished the edges with some more of the same stuff.

 

Then I applied wax.

 

Then I burnished with whatever felt burnisher I had...

 

Add some more wax , then burnished.

 

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/Stationery%20Paraphernalia/One%20piece%20Leather%20Pen%20sleeve/001-1.jpg

 

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/Stationery%20Paraphernalia/One%20piece%20Leather%20Pen%20sleeve/002-1.jpg

 

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/Stationery%20Paraphernalia/One%20piece%20Leather%20Pen%20sleeve/004-1.jpg

 

I still cant get smooth edges.

 

Am I supposed to grind down smooth the edges of the raw leather ?

 

What do you use? a sander?

 

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/Stationery%20Paraphernalia/One%20piece%20Leather%20Pen%20sleeve/005-1.jpg

 

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/Stationery%20Paraphernalia/One%20piece%20Leather%20Pen%20sleeve/006.jpg

 

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/Stationery%20Paraphernalia/One%20piece%20Leather%20Pen%20sleeve/008.jpg

 

Its starting to look more finished ...

Learning as I go along ,

quite some way to go still ...

 

 

 

 

 

[TMLee]

For those of you attempting this,

 

A total overall length of 7inches of the leather sleeve will be able to accommodate largish pens such as these :

 

From top :

- MB149

- DELTA Forum.it 500

- DANITRIO Densho Raw Ebonite

- PARKER Duofold Centennial

 

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/Stationery%20Paraphernalia/One%20piece%20Leather%20Pen%20sleeve/001-2.jpg

 

 

The extra space (lengthwise ) of the sleeve is necessary to slide the pen inside the sleeve to facilitate retrieval thru the slot opening.

 

 

 

 

[scrivelry]

wow ! Those are some nice looking pen cases

 

I like the camel coloured one. Somehow it looks just great !

 

Thanks for the link to your other post.

It was helpful.

 

Thanks for explaining the diamond tipped awl.

I had always wondered how and why it was different from a round tipped awl.

Well Now I know ...

 

 

 

I took your advice and used the edge finisher to glue the seams together.

 

After drying, I finished the edges with some more of the same stuff.

 

Then I applied wax.

 

Then I burnished with whatever felt burnisher I had...

 

Add some more wax , then burnished.

 

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/Stationery%20Paraphernalia/One%20piece%20Leather%20Pen%20sleeve/001-1.jpg

 

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/Stationery%20Paraphernalia/One%20piece%20Leather%20Pen%20sleeve/002-1.jpg

 

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/Stationery%20Paraphernalia/One%20piece%20Leather%20Pen%20sleeve/004-1.jpg

 

I still cant get smooth edges.

 

Am I supposed to grind down smooth the edges of the raw leather ?

 

What do you use? a sander?

 

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/Stationery%20Paraphernalia/One%20piece%20Leather%20Pen%20sleeve/005-1.jpg

 

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/Stationery%20Paraphernalia/One%20piece%20Leather%20Pen%20sleeve/006.jpg

 

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/Stationery%20Paraphernalia/One%20piece%20Leather%20Pen%20sleeve/008.jpg

 

Its starting to look more finished ...

Learning as I go along ,

quite some way to go still ...

 

 

 

 

 

To thin the edges of leather, you can shave it from the back side. I think that this should make it easier to get the finished edges so close to each other when glued. This is called skiving and there are tools for it, but this is as much as I can say. I've never done it and I'm not sure this is what you want, but it seems like a possibility.