Re-Sacking An Old Ballpoint, Can It Be Done?

[ashbridg]

I have some 1940s ballpoints that came in ensemble sets with fountain pens and pencils. Experts tell me these Stratowriter cartridges have sacs filled with paste ink. Is it possible to re-sac one and fill it with regular ink? Has anybody ever done that? How can I take the aluminum cartridge apart without destroying it? Thanks.

 

http://ashbridg.com/bpcart500.jpg

 

Edit: I have the adapter "widget" from Pendemonium, but the idea of re-sacking a vintage ballpoint is intriguing.

Edited December 19, 2012 by ashbridg

[kernando]

Who are these experts who say that a ballpoint cartridge would contain a sac?

[Sasha Royale]

I have never failed at taking anything apart. The true problem lies in

putting it back together.

 

In the case of ballpoint ink, resealing so that there is air entry to allow

ink flow, but not ink leakage. I think you are tampering with a nightmare

mess, when you least expect it.

 

Use the widget.

[ashbridg]

Who are these experts who say that a ballpoint cartridge would contain a sac?

One is Frank Dubiel, author of Da Book. He could be wrong, I guess, but it would pop my bubble. We'll know soon in any case because I have a Stratowriter cartridge now soaking in ammonia to prepare it for surgery.

[ashbridg]

In the case of ballpoint ink, resealing so that there is air entry to allow

ink flow, but not ink leakage. I think you are tampering with a nightmare

mess, when you least expect it.

 

Use the widget.

In this case the sac is air tight. The cartridge is vented so the sac collapses as the ink is used. At least that's what Frank says.

 

I do use the widget, but a sac-filler ballpoint would be pretty cool.

Edited December 20, 2012 by ashbridg

[FarmBoy]

Who are these experts who say that a ballpoint cartridge would contain a sac?

One is Frank Dubiel, author of Da Book. He could be wrong, I guess, but it would pop my bubble. We'll know soon in any case because I have a Stratowriter cartridge now soaking in ammonia to prepare it for surgery.

Why soak it in ammonia/water solution?

[ashbridg]

Why soak it in ammonia/water solution?

Straight ammonia, but only up to where the section joins the cartridge. It helps dissolve sealants and dried crud. Already the ball bearing is unfrozen, and the section top now spins freely where it's crimped to the cartridge.

Edited December 20, 2012 by ashbridg

[viclip]

Ammonia attacks aluminum so I'd be wary of using it to clean a Stratowriter refill esp. full strength. Anyways as Farmboy suggested, ballpoint ink is solvent based so some species of mineral spirits is called for. I've soaked leaky Stratowriter refills in kerosene for a couple of days just to clean them up for re-insertion into the pen for display purposes.

[ashbridg]

Ammonia attacks aluminum so I'd be wary of using it to clean a Stratowriter refill esp. full strength. Anyways as Farmboy suggested, ballpoint ink is solvent based so some species of mineral spirits is called for. I've soaked leaky Stratowriter refills in kerosene for a couple of days just to clean them up for re-insertion into the pen for display purposes.

Ammonia turned the aluminum black after three hours. Most of the residue came off pretty easily though and the sealant / cement on the section joint seems to have dissolved. It feels nice and loose now. I considered using naphtha (lighter fluid) but was afraid it would dissolve the sac. So it was a trade-off to risk the aluminium instead of the rubber. Did you ever try to re-sac one of your Stratowriters? I'm wondering how to get the sac out.

[viclip]

Ammonia attacks aluminum so I'd be wary of using it to clean a Stratowriter refill esp. full strength. Anyways as Farmboy suggested, ballpoint ink is solvent based so some species of mineral spirits is called for. I've soaked leaky Stratowriter refills in kerosene for a couple of days just to clean them up for re-insertion into the pen for display purposes.

Ammonia turned the aluminum black after three hours. Most of the residue came off pretty easily though and the sealant / cement on the section joint seems to have dissolved. It feels nice and loose now. I considered using naphtha (lighter fluid) but was afraid it would dissolve the sac. So it was a trade-off to risk the aluminium instead of the rubber. Did you ever try to re-sac one of your Stratowriters? I'm wondering how to get the sac out.

I had no idea that the Stratowriter ballpen refills contained sacs until now. In any event my preference is to use the Pendemonium "widget" with the modern Sheaffer refills to actually write with these early ball point pens. I keep the original refills as making for interesting conversational pieces, people find it interesting that they screwed right into the barrel.

[ashbridg]

Ammonia attacks aluminum so I'd be wary of using it to clean a Stratowriter refill esp. full strength. Anyways as Farmboy suggested, ballpoint ink is solvent based so some species of mineral spirits is called for. I've soaked leaky Stratowriter refills in kerosene for a couple of days just to clean them up for re-insertion into the pen for display purposes.

Ammonia turned the aluminum black after three hours. Most of the residue came off pretty easily though and the sealant / cement on the section joint seems to have dissolved. It feels nice and loose now. I considered using naphtha (lighter fluid) but was afraid it would dissolve the sac. So it was a trade-off to risk the aluminium instead of the rubber. Did you ever try to re-sac one of your Stratowriters? I'm wondering how to get the sac out.

I had no idea that the Stratowriter ballpen refills contained sacs until now. In any event my preference is to use the Pendemonium "widget" with the modern Sheaffer refills to actually write with these early ball point pens. I keep the original refills as making for interesting conversational pieces, people find it interesting that they screwed right into the barrel.

The cartridges do make good display items. They also have a colorful history. The Stratowriter was designed during World War II for use by pilots in unpressurized plane cabins (hence the name). The precision machining of the parts is impressive. The ball bearing rotation in the socket is smooth. No gap is visible under a loupe. These pens worked well. My goal is to restore one as authentically as possible and demonstrate how it operates. I consider Stratowriters to be historically significant.

[ashbridg]

Here is the cartridge disassembled. The sac is still pliable. It is also full of ink, and the ink is still gooey and wet. Sheaffer used a piece of woven thread to tie the sac to the section nipple. The sac was also cemented in place with an adhesive. The point holder and section contain five pieces, including the ball bearing. Disassembly is difficult because the crimped joint is stronger than the aluminum itself. I put a few dents in the cartridge but managed to remove most of them pretty easily. I will use a drill press to take apart the others.

 

The craftsmanship that went into this cartridge is amazing. It was built for combat, literally. Who would think a 1940s ballpoint could have a sac still intact and a full supply of wet ink? I see no reason why this cartridge can't be restored successfully.

 

http://ashbridg.com/bpcartpieces500.jpg

[BamaPen]

This thread has taken me from "who would want to re-sac a ballpoint - and did they have a sac anyhow?" to "this is pretty interesting, I want to know more."

 

There are several "inkball" pens on the market today that use ordinary fountain pen ink. I have a J. Herbin inkball and since it is transparent, I can see that it has a finned feed, much like a Parker 51 collector, between the ink cartridge and the ballpoint. I am wondering if you would be able to use fountain pen ink in your Stratowriter. Of course that leads me to wonder what is inside that aluminum component leading from the sac to the ball...

[kbajalc]

I am waiting for the pen and spare original refills delivery, with same idea to reink them.

Pleased I have found this thread, looking forward to read about the outcome of your effort.

[FarmBoy]

What do your an on using as the carrier to fluidized the ink?

 

Also, do we know the sac was intended to collapse on use or to simply act as a liquid tight liner.

 

Farmboy

[ashbridg]

I am wondering if you would be able to use fountain pen ink in your Stratowriter. Of course that leads me to wonder what is inside that aluminum component leading from the sac to the ball...

Nothing is in there. It's a smooth hollow path all the way, with a slightly conical shape. You can look through the section and see the ball at the end. That works fine for a sealed system. The sac collapses as the ink is used, so no chance of an air lock.

 

I would pretty much have to use fountain pen ink. Ballpoint paste requires equipment I don't have access to. But the question is how to enable the air / ink interchange. What would keep the pen from getting an air lock?

 

There are several "inkball" pens on the market today that use ordinary fountain pen ink.

I have a Noodler's rollerball. It's a piston filler that uses fountain pen ink. The ball and ebonite feed could even be modified to fit in a Stratowriter. The problem is the Noodler's pens are vented through the section, and the Stratowriter has no way to do that. Some air will get into the sac when I fill it. Will the pen still write? I wonder.

 

What do your an on using as the carrier to fluidized the ink?

I'm hoping to use fountain pen ink, maybe with a wick like Nathan Tardif uses to enable capillarity in his rollerballs.

 

Also, do we know the sac was intended to collapse on use or to simply act as a liquid tight liner.

I'm just going by what Dubiel said. It makes sense because if the sac does not collapse I don't see how the ink can get out of the pen. One of my Stratowriter cartridges looks well used. When I pull the sac out I will check the extent of collapse.

[ashbridg]

Update: I fitted the Strat cartridge with a new sac and filled it with Sheaffer Skrip. It writes well but only when I squeeze the sac to force ink into the point. You can see the consistency of the original ink paste where I scooped out a glob onto a swizzle stick. I think this cartridge can write successfully using the original ballpoint ink if it is transferred to a new sac. A centrifuge will be needed. Will Ron Zorn's salad-spinner invention do the trick? Suggestions are appreciated. And thanks to those who responded.

 

http://ashbridg.com/strat_sac_600.jpgFrom top: aluminium sac protector, original sac and stick with blob of ink paste, and new untrimmed sac on the section with point-holder unit unscrewed.

 

Edit: I am storing the original ink paste and sac in a zip lock baggie, which hopefully will preserve the ink for future use.

Edited December 27, 2012 by ashbridg

[kbajalc]

To share the result of my experiment. Modern refill can be mounted on Stratowriter ballpoint section.

Plastic ones are most convinient, just remove the tip. There is no need for special equipment.

When section is clean just blowing the refill is enough for ink to reach the ball tip.

The modern ink seem compatible in viscosity. Stratowriter tip is surprisingly fine and smooth, no skipping.

Will see how it behaves after couple of days.

[ashbridg]

To share the result of my experiment. Modern refill can be mounted on Stratowriter ballpoint section.

Plastic ones are most convinient, just remove the tip. There is no need for special equipment.

When section is clean just blowing the refill is enough for ink to reach the ball tip.

The modern ink seem compatible in viscosity. Stratowriter tip is surprisingly fine and smooth, no skipping.

Will see how it behaves after couple of days.

Nicely done, kbajalc. Your method is more authentic than using the adapter "widget" because you use the original ball bearing. Also, there is no need to buy extra parts. Yes, I like the way they write, too. You can feel the ball rolling around. It is pretty neat. I believe your pen will continue to work well. There is no reason for it not to.

 

My goal is to get a Stratowriter to work with a sac using the original ink paste. I like to restore old things so they work the way they did when they were new. It's just for fun. I don't actually write with them much. But I want to make one operational and demonstrate it for people, maybe take it to my pen club. Congratulations on your success, and thanks for the photo.

Edited December 27, 2012 by ashbridg

[whych]

A year or so ago I tried to use a the old front end to emulate/make a conventional holder that screws in similar to the one you can buy.

I never tried your idea of pushing a modern refill into the existing tip.

The other idea you can try is to pull the existing tip out and use a complete modern refill. Using the Sheaffer refill never worked too well for me, but if you can get a refill with the right length and thin enough to fit through the front end, it could also work.

Have a look here for the idea for replacing old Pelikan BP refills:

https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php?/topic/215383-question-on-pelikan-bp/

 

If you are wanting to use the ink sac idea, rather try pulling the tip off the original refill and try blowing the ink from the front rather than the top.

 

Trouble where I live, there are no shops with a huge choice of refills to sit and try them out for the correct thickness and length. All the guys around here keep are Parker, Sheaffer and Cross refills.

 

The 'use a complete new refill' idea is probably a better idea because there is less mess and fuss changing a comlete refill than blowing ink into the old one.

If you are anything like me and use a BP so seldom, you find even the modern refill the ink dries on you before it is completely empty.

 

For what it's worth, one of the 'older' guys who actually got to use the Stratowriter when it was new, told me they weren't that great and never lasted very long either.

Edited December 27, 2012 by whych