Replacing Inner Sleeve on Sheaffer Metal Cap

[Guest PeteWK]

I was asked to talk to Fred Krinke about replacing the inner sleeve on Sheaffer Metal Capped pens like the one being discussed in another thread. This is my report, with pictures (why does this feel like a HS assignment? I'm way too old for that!)

 

As Fred is the most helpful of chaps, here's the low-down

 

The picture in this post if the latest Sheaffer Repair Bulletin on the issue from 1976.

 

More info along with the next pic.

[Guest PeteWK]

Fred says that Sheaffer never intended that the inner sleeve survive the removal process so they sold the part to dealers. He still has a fair selection for various pens. The photo includes four of maybe a dozen he still has for the 1940 type of cap previously discussed in another thread. The two on the right are the exact replacement part for that dented pen. One of the parts still has the original Sheaffer sticker with part number on it.

[Guest PeteWK]

The process begins by taking a razor knife and shimming the blade in between the cap and inner sleeve. That's where the bulk of the glue resides. The ones he's saved from my caps have all come out after that part of the process. The older the pen, the better the chance of success there. The thinner and sharper the blade the better. He next uses these pliers (see picture) inserted into the gap created by the knife and twists the old inner sleeve in on itself.

 

* THIS ALL SOUNDS CRAZY BUT ITS EXACTLY WHAT THE SHEAFFER REPAIR BULLETIN SAYS *

 

Fred also talked about attending Sheaffer's week long Pen Repairman training back in the late 1940s or early 1950s and they did the same thing then.

 

A couple of tricks would be to screw the pen into the cap after using the knife and see if the inner sleeve can be removed. A second trick he's used before destroying the part is to insert a heated metal rod into the cap (A large and carefully selected bolt with course threads should do the trick). This should soften the rest of the remaining glue holding the part in place.

 

And if all else fails, do it Sheaffer's way and destroy the thing.

 

EDIT HERE: Please note that these pliers are very very tiny. Fred's was pretty sure he got them from a pen repair supplier way back in the day. A jeweler supply place might be a good second choice these days.

Edited February 21, 2007 by PeteWK

[Guest PeteWK]

This is a second look at the pliers from a different angle. Where it would go into the space they're VERY thin and yet strong. Edit to include the picture I forgot.

Edited February 21, 2007 by PeteWK

[Guest PeteWK]

The process of removing the dents on my 14k caps (note that they're much softer than the gold fill caps) included both burnishing the gold and working it from the inside with these types of custom dowels. One of them was used on my last dented cap, a 1945 Crest Masterpiece. Not so much as a trace of any dent can be found.

[Guest PeteWK]

This monster (Inner Cap Puller) is a Sheaffer repair tool purchased by Fred in the 1950s. It would be more for plastic inner caps, though. I thought some would like to see the pro tool Sheaffer made for when they DIDN'T want you to destroy the part.

 

He added the two washers plus the ball bearing disk to reduce friction burns to the cap lips.

 

Edit here: I'm pretty sure you can still buy these as reproductions somewhere.

 

I hope this all helps.

 

PeteWK

Edited February 21, 2007 by PeteWK

[FarmBoy]

QUOTE (PeteWK @ Feb 20 2007, 08:28 PM)

(why does this feel like a HS assignment?  I'm way too old for that!)

You get an A+

 

Thanks for the details.

 

Todd

[Guest PeteWK]

QUOTE (FarmBoy @ Feb 21 2007, 06:13 AM)

QUOTE (PeteWK @ Feb 20 2007, 08:28 PM) (why does this feel like a HS assignment?  I'm way too old for that!) You get an A+   Thanks for the details.   Todd Sweet! Wait til I tell Daddy! He'll let me drive the Jag for sure. (Man, if only my dad had had a Jag my teenage years would have been MUCH more fun!)

[kirchh]

QUOTE (PeteWK @ Feb 15 2007, 12:50 PM)

I'm not sure why some are saying that Daniel has "figured out" a way to remove the inner cap as Fred does it with frequency.

 

I think there was some confusion on this point, as has been highlighted by the above posts. Ron/Richard were referring to a repeatable, dependable, safe procedure for removing the cap sleeves undamaged. As you say, the procedure detailed above has been known for decades, as it appears in multiple Sheaffer repair references; I was hoping that you were talking about a different process that Fred had devised or learned that did not put the cap sleeve at risk.

 

--Daniel

Edited February 21, 2007 by kirchh

[Guest PeteWK]

QUOTE (kirchh @ Feb 21 2007, 03:43 PM)

QUOTE (PeteWK @ Feb 15 2007, 12:50 PM) I'm not sure why some are saying that Daniel has "figured out" a way to remove the inner cap as Fred does it with frequency.   I think there was some confusion on this point, as has been highlighted by the above posts. Ron/Richard were referring to a repeatable, dependable, safe procedure for removing the cap sleeves undamaged. As you say, the procedure detailed above has been known for decades, as it appears in mutiple Sheaffer repair references; I was hoping that you were talking about a different process that Fred had devised or learned that did not put the cap sleeve at risk.   --Daniel You'll note the reference to the heated steel rod. This is the method Fred uses when he would have no option but to reuse the sleeve. So long as you don't heat the rod to red or white hot you shouldn't hurt the gold fill. You're probably safe to about 400 degrees. The threads on the bolt will grip into the cap threads. I've not seen any reference to this step or "trick of the trade" anywhere else.   Obviously use caution and heat resistant gloves and avoid clamping the cap down with anything rubber.   Just remember to first break as much of the bond with the knife as you can.   PeteWK   EDIT HERE - I'm assuming that you've read the ENTIRE process. That reference in buried in with everything in its proper order.

Edited February 21, 2007 by PeteWK

[kirchh]

QUOTE (PeteWK @ Feb 21 2007, 12:34 PM)

QUOTE (kirchh @ Feb 21 2007, 03:43 PM) QUOTE (PeteWK @ Feb 15 2007, 12:50 PM) I'm not sure why some are saying that Daniel has "figured out" a way to remove the inner cap as Fred does it with frequency.   I think there was some confusion on this point, as has been highlighted by the above posts. Ron/Richard were referring to a repeatable, dependable, safe procedure for removing the cap sleeves undamaged. As you say, the procedure detailed above has been known for decades, as it appears in mutiple Sheaffer repair references; I was hoping that you were talking about a different process that Fred had devised or learned that did not put the cap sleeve at risk.   --Daniel You'll note the reference to the heated steel rod. This is the method Fred uses when he would have no option but to reuse the sleeve. So long as you don't heat the rod to red or white hot you shouldn't hurt the gold fill. You're probably safe to about 400 degrees. The threads on the bolt will grip into the cap threads. I've not seen any reference to this step or "trick of the trade" anywhere else.   Obviously use caution and heat resistant gloves and avoid clamping the cap down with anything rubber.   Just remember to first break as much of the bond with the knife as you can.   PeteWK   EDIT HERE - I'm assuming that you've read the ENTIRE process. That reference in buried in with everything in its proper order. I did see the reference to the use of heat -- at this point, we restorers use heat on just about everything! The tricky part there is guarding the White Dot if present. The use of a bolt that threads into the cap liner entails a bit too much risk for my purposes (no standard bolt will properly thread, so the threads can be marred, and there's a risk of expanding the threaded area, causing skipping). Work continues.   --Daniel

[fountainbel]

Great "original" information Pete, thank you very much !

I've made myself a "hammering device" to remove the metal inner caps.

In an earlier thread I posted a discription & some pictures.

This works rather well - at least when using some heat - & allows removing the inner cap whitout damage.

As suggested I surely will try to break the glue- fit with a rasor blade in the future.

This could overcome the need for heating up the cap.

Francis

 

[sheafferkid]

Wow thank you very much, PeteWK! That is excellent info and I will try and take out the inner cap to learn how this all works, but if I break the cap, it wouldnt be that much of a loss to me considering how big the dent is. Anyways, once again, thank you very much for finding that out for us!

 

Evan

[kirchh]

QUOTE (sheafferkid @ Feb 22 2007, 07:46 PM)

I will try and take out the inner cap to learn how this all works, but if I break the cap, it wouldnt be that much of a loss to me considering how big the dent is. Anyways, once again, thank you very much for finding that out for us!

You may want to keep the cap as it is until some point where you feel confident you can extract the sleeve without damage; despite the large dent, the cap may well be salvageable.

 

--Daniel

[sheafferkid]

Well, I got the inner cap out very sucessfully, although the inner cap is ruined. I think I will try and size a dowel on my neighbors lathe to de-dent this cap. I would presume I need to take out the clip first, right? I peeked inside with a flashlight and the clip looks curled around the metal part in the cap. How do I take off the clip, if that is necessary?

 

Evan

[Guest PeteWK]

Hi Evan. Can you tell if the clip is merely attached or if it uses an inner spring? The latter clip can be pulled some distance from the cap and then return to its normal resting position.

 

PeteWK

[sheafferkid]

This one definitely looks attatched. Because of the nasty dent, there is quite a bit of wobble to the clip. I looked into the cap and saw pretty much half of an infinity sign (8 on its side) which tells me that the clip is just clamped on. So how would I take this kind of?

[kirchh]

QUOTE (PeteWK @ Feb 23 2007, 03:45 AM)

Can you tell if the clip is merely attached or if it uses an inner spring?

Note that this style of cap always bears a fixed clip; the innerspring clip came later.

 

--Daniel

[sheafferkid]

Yup, thats what I thought too, Daniel. So...how do I take it off to de-dent the cap? Thanks!

[dcjacobson]

Thanks for the interesting and useful thread. I've concluded that it's easier to either live with the cap, or find an undented one!

 

dj