How to tighten a cap

[badrsj]

Hi, I have this Sheaffer imperial pen, the cap is loose on the body, any ideas? how to fix this situation.

Thanks

http://www.myonlineimages.com/Members/sccsales/images/sheafferimperialgoldgrid.jpg

[johnr55]

I have this same pen and my cap isn't loose. Is it those little things (I can't remember the name for them) that poke out and hold the cap on, not doing their job?

[Guest PeteWK]

Hello. I don't have time to go into it but I'll have a very effective fix for you tomorrow after I get back from a family outing. I've fixed a number of PFMs with it.

 

PeteWK

[Richard]

I don't know what Pete's fix is, but the "correct" repair is to replace the clutch ring (which has the three little bumps on it). Given that you can't get replacement clutch rings, the next best thing is to "adjust" the existing clutch ring. To do this, you have to unscrew the metal ferrule from the shell (with heat, and work carefully because the plastic is brittle) and then, with the clutch ring held in place to keep the whole ring from deforming, gently bend each of the bumps outward a tiny bit using chain-nose pliers. Reassemble, using shellac to seal the ferrule in place.

[Guest PeteWK]

Sorry for the delay but I'll have the whole fix with pictures up after my daughter is off to bed. I'll pretty much mirror Richard but with an improvement or two over his method. Regards,

 

PeteWK

[Terry Brack]

I have a similar pen but with a touchdown filler. It could use a bit of bump expanding too but it has another cap related problem the clip is loose so that it shifts left and right a bit. I expect this is a fairly common problem with these. How can this be tightened?

[Guest PeteWK]

I'll do this in four posts because the site will only allow me to upload one picture at a time and I'll have to review the process for multiple pics.

 

Anyway, this is a picture of all the parts in a Imperial Nib Unit. The part we're most concerned with is the clutch ring. The first thing you'll want to do (as Richard has already posted) is to heat the section housing just above the tube. Do this carefully and with a hairdryer or similar. If you're going to use a flame, don't go near the top of the feed. Bad things can happen up there. The best flame is an alcohol burner you can pick up at most hobby stores. You're really just trying to heat and free up the threads which screw into the housing. As you can see in the picture, they're coated with a threadlock compound. You might also try soaking the section overnight in cold water. This will often do the trick. Once the housing has been heated or soaked, you'll need to use section pliers to remove the tube from the housing. Be careful to grip it closest to the housing where the tube is stronger or you'll bend the end of it.

 

Go to next post.

[southpaw]

Richard and Pete, any differences in the initial set of getting the section off of a TD filler? I've recently posted this exact same question (guess I should have checked a bit more )?

[Guest PeteWK]

The tool you'll want to use is a simple blunted nail as shown. The benefit to this is it has a ramping effect when inserted into the clutch ring opening. You'll be inserting it and then gently pushing the other end of the nail into the tube, thus evenly pushing out the desired part of the ring tab. I'll take the tube out and then remove the small rataining ring. Then I replace the tube to perform the task. Otherwise, you'll deform the ring. Put it back after you're done. The benefit of this over the pliers should be obvious. The pliers are merely flat and don't easily give the tab the desired uniform shape against the cap.

 

Please note that one should wrap the tube below the housing with a couple turns of masking tape. You don't want to deform them with the nail.

 

As Pen For Men is much easier as shown below because it doesn't have the retaining ring that the Imperial does.

[Guest PeteWK]

This picture shows the Pen For Men (don't forget the tape)

[Guest PeteWK]

And this one shows the Imperial. It really doesn't take much effort to reshape it.

 

When you're done, take the tube back out and clean the old sealer off with a brass brush or similar. Then put the trim ring back on before resealing it. I tend to use Loctite Removable Threadlocker as that's what the good folks at Sheaffer advised me that they used. Shelac will also do but it's not as water proof or durable.

 

I hope this helps. Don't be afraid, I know you can do it!

 

PeteWK

[Guest PeteWK]

Richard and Pete, any differences in the initial set of getting the section off of a TD filler? I've recently posted this exact same question (guess I should have checked a bit more )?

Hi Southpaw. The section is very annoying to remove as it doesn't have much to grab onto with the section pliers. Da Book by Frank Dubiel should be of much help to you.

 

I will say though that I haven't come across a TD Imperial that required removing the feed. What's wrong with yours?

 

PeteWK

[southpaw]

Richard and Pete, any differences in the initial set of getting the section off of a TD filler?  I've recently posted this exact same question (guess I should have checked a bit more  )?

Hi Southpaw. The section is very annoying to remove as it doesn't have much to grab onto with the section pliers. Da Book by Frank Dubiel should be of much help to you.

 

I will say though that I haven't come across a TD Imperial that required removing the feed. What's wrong with yours?

 

PeteWK

Cap is loose because the clutch ring tabs don't extend far enough. I'm just trying to figure out how to get at them, that's all.

[Guest PeteWK]

Cap is loose because the clutch ring tabs don't extend far enough. I'm just trying to figure out how to get at them, that's all.

That's easy with some models and hard with others. If it's a plastic barrel but metal cap model (VI or VIII) you just do it like I've shown the PFM in a previous picture. Once you remove the cap, you'll see the opening in the clutch ring where you can insert the nail after wraping the barrel underneath it with a little tape (you can also use a little paper folded up under the nail).

 

Those two don't have the trim ring shielding the openings.

 

The Imperial IIIs and the full metal TD Imperials do and they're a royal pain in the neck. Those require you to remove the plastic threaded piece after heating it. The fix is just like the cartridge Imperial except you almost don't have anything to hold onto with your section pliers.

 

What model pen do you have?

 

PeteWK

[southpaw]

Cap is loose because the clutch ring tabs don't extend far enough.  I'm just trying to figure out how to get at them, that's all.

That's easy with some models and hard with others. If it's a plastic barrel but metal cap model (VI or VIII) you just do it like I've shown the PFM in a previous picture. Once you remove the cap, you'll see the opening in the clutch ring where you can insert the nail after wraping the barrel underneath it with a little tape (you can also use a little paper folded up under the nail).

 

Those two don't have the trim ring shielding the openings.

 

The Imperial IIIs and the full metal TD Imperials do and they're a royal pain in the neck. Those require you to remove the plastic threaded piece after heating it. The fix is just like the cartridge Imperial except you almost don't have anything to hold onto with your section pliers.

 

What model pen do you have?

 

PeteWK

I've actually got quite a few, some of all of the models, but the one with the problem is a VI (stainless cap, rolled gold furniture, black barrel).

[Guest PeteWK]

I've actually got quite a few, some of all of the models, but the one with the problem is a VI (stainless cap, rolled gold furniture, black barrel).

That model shouldn't be a problem at all. Just unscrew the top from the bottom and you'll see the little spaces or holes exposed (I'll upload pictures tonight if you need them), tape the threads, insert small nail and then gently pry the tabs out. A little trial and error will lead to just the right tightness of the cap against the pen.

 

PeteWK

[Ray]

This is a great thread, and it's what FPN ought to be about. This is far better than those posts of a while ago that basically said, "Look what we did - we won't tell you how we did it!"

 

Ray

 

PS: actually, "ought to be about" is a little harsh. Most of the time it's what FPN *is* about.

Edited October 24, 2006 by Ray

[fountainbel]

Hi All,

I apply a similar method as Pete WK, however using a 1.5 mm precision screw driver instead of the small nail Pete suggests.

Benefit is that one has a better control over the tool & one is able to open the 3 small bumps over their full width, ensuring a "longer lasting" pretension.

Regards, Francis

[camd]

And this one shows the Imperial. It really doesn't take much effort to reshape it.

 

When you're done, take the tube back out and clean the old sealer off with a brass brush or similar. Then put the trim ring back on before resealing it. I tend to use Loctite Removable Threadlocker as that's what the good folks at Sheaffer advised me that they used. Shelac will also do but it's not as water proof or durable.

 

I hope this helps. Don't be afraid, I know you can do it!

 

PeteWK

 

I'm going to try to resurrect a very old thread. I have a Triumph Imperial that has a loose cap, but the clutch is tight. In other words, the clutch grips the cap tightly (so the cap does not fall off), but the cap (with the clutch) still wiggles. This is because the clutch ring itself does not appear to be tight and has some play in it. Is there a way to tighten the clutch ring between the retaining ring and the tube?

 

Thanks for your help!

[Flounder]

I'm going to try to resurrect a very old thread

 

Glad you did, this great thread escaped my attention. Duly bookmarked, and I don't even have an Imperial or PFM.