Parker 51 Vacumatic Questions

[gweimer1]

So, I have my first Parker 51 Vacumatic, and it looks to be a Mark I from 1947. It also needs repair. I've been reading up, and checking available YouTube videos.

 

Here is what I need some clarification on....

 

• Is the section a screw-on, or is this model earlier than that?
• From what I've been reading, I should gently heat the barrel, and NOT the section, then grip the barrel and gently unscrew the section. Correct?

 

In my digging around, I found a new, but somewhat expensive version of the old Barrett pliers. Knipex makes these, and they are sold at Sears. Parallel grip and smooth surface.

http://www.knipex.com/index.php?id=1216&L=1&page=group_detail&parentID=1368&groupID=1500&artID=34171

 

And, I lucked out at Lowe's. I found these on sale for $10, and the larger one is another parallel pressure grip, plus the mouth is already rubber.

http://images.lowes.com/product/converted/099198/099198850498.jpg

 

 

[Flounder]

The section will be screw on, standard lefty loosey thread. I think it was only the early Vacumatics (not vacumatic 51s) that were a combined section and barrel.

 

The vac 51 hasn't the 'weak link' connector like the later aero. The hood screws straight onto the barrel and both are made of strong lucite. It might take more than gentle heat to soften the sealant, and several heat cycles even if you've already gotten as much ink out as possible.

 

I don't like flat grips, I hate the idea of that much pressure on just two points. I'd hate to mark the barrel. I realise my opinion is not universally shared.

[dali3464]

• Is the section a screw-on, or is this model earlier than that?
• From what I've been reading, I should gently heat the barrel, and NOT the section, then grip the barrel and gently unscrew the section. Correct?

 

(1) I'm not aware of any 51 Vacumatics where the section does not thread onto the barrel.

(2) You heat the section: specifically the part of the section adjacent to the clutch ring. This is the location of the threads and the sealant. Sometimes you come across a really, really stubborn sealant that won't seem to give up. In these events, you can simply immerse the section - up to the clutch ring - in boiling water that has been left to cool at room temperature for a minute or two. David Nishimura (over at vintagepens.com) lists this method as very acceptable as the Lucite (essentially acrylic I believe) of the Parker 51s is far more durable than celluloid (which never ought to be submersed in hot water).

[dali3464]

I don't like flat grips, I hate the idea of that much pressure on just two points. I'd hate to mark the barrel. I realise my opinion is not universally shared.

 

I agree, I've never been comfortable with the pincer-like grips. Particularly in my case, I'm never quite sure about whether I'm applying too much pressure.

 

Funnily enough, I realised my favourite plastic grip happens to be the 'leatherette' material of the cream pouches in which Pelikan pens arrive.

[Glenn Atkins]

Heat it in water of about 180F for 4 minutes or so. Most of the time it will remove by hand. Repeat as necessary.

 

Don't use either of the pliers above. Your local auto parts store should have these. Get two.

 

http://www.mytoolsforyou.com/automotive-tools/KDT-135D.html

 

Only use these if you have to...and have to is way far down the road from a couple of soaks in hot water. If you use these be extremely, extremely careful.

 

I would use this first.

 

http://www.bedbathandbeyond.com/store/product/con-tact-reg-grip-ultra-shelf-liner-in-stone/127376?Keyword=shelf+liner

 

Glenn

[Flounder]

I agree! Also, this is another opportunity for me to bang on yet again about the surprising grippy-twisty abilities of humble blutack, which is pretty much foolproof in terms of scratching the pen's finish. It will even take off a watch back. With proper heating, though, it should not require a lot of force to remove the hood.

 

http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Parnis%20Power%20Reserve%20Review/ParnisIIgreasedrotorbearings008large-1.jpg

 

 

Once you have the hood off, take care not to lose the hard rubber shim at the back of the collector, esp. if you're an ultrasonic user.

 

 

http://i773.photobucket.com/albums/yy19/flounder2009/Parker51%20Collector%20Cleaning/CleaningParker51Collectors010.jpg

[Apothic]

^^

Love it!

[chud]

Does the 51 Special also use that hard rubber shim in the collector, or is that only used on the 51 non-Special versions?

[Flounder]

I would expect to see this type of collector in the OPs '47 vacumatic. I don't know about the special's chronology, but the shim style collector was done away with pretty soon after the aeros came out, if I recall correctly whatever I read that lodged that info in my brain.

[FarmBoy]

At this point in time, parts in 51s have migrated so you might see the rubber rod in any pen.

 

And, for what it is worth, we call it a hood, not a section.

[gweimer1]

The hood is off! It took 2 days of soaking, and trying the hot water trick. In the end, I did use my Kobalt grips, but I was careful where I set the jaws, and just held the pen while I turned the barrel. It's off clean, though. Step 1 done, and I'm happy so far. The collector looks pretty gunky, so I'll let it sit and soak overnight again. Next up....removing the collector.

[Glenn Atkins]

Keep us updated! Pictures along the way?

 

Glenn

[Ron Z]

A heat gun and section pliers would have had the shell off in a matter of minutes.

 

You can get away with hot water on a 51 because it's Lucite, but don't ever try it with a celluloid pen. Hot water or steam can cloud celluloid, and you'll never get it back to it's original color and clarity.

[pajaro]

I used a heat gun on my 42 51 vac. Gently, keeping fingers close to try to minimize harm. After three weeks of heat sessions I cut the hood off (it was broken, and replacing it was the whole reason for this op) and the inside was melted, threads melted, so the hood never would come off. I'm not sure if I melted it or the last owner melted it.

[FarmBoy]

A heat gun and section pliers would have had the shell off in a matter of minutes.

 

You can get away with hot water on a 51 because it's Lucite, but don't ever try it with a celluloid pen. Hot water or steam can cloud celluloid, and you'll never get it back to it's original color and clarity.

I second that motion and amend it to include hard rubber sections.

[gweimer1]

Here's where I'm at. I got the pen apart, and the sac was coming out of the barrel in pieces. I have one coming, but now comes the task of taking the barrel and plunger assembly apart. Still, given that this is my first attempt at working on one of these, I'm happy with my progress. I have time, and I plan to take it. And, yes, the little rubber shim is in the collector.

 

 

 

[gweimer1]

And....it's done! I've had it done for a couple days now, after getting the Parker vac tool and watching Ron Zorn at the Ohio Pen Show. I have a second repair also now underway. These are fun.

 

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b170/gweimer/PB101782_zps395349c1.jpg

[c4bb0ose]

And....it's done! I've had it done for a couple days now, after getting the Parker vac tool and watching Ron Zorn at the Ohio Pen Show. I have a second repair also now underway. These are fun.

 

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b170/gweimer/PB101782_zps395349c1.jpg

Ah you have a blue jewled one, they seem to be quite sought after fyi

[Cryptos]

Your third one is just hours away from entering the big lottery... erm... postal system

Edited November 12, 2014 by Cryptos

[OcalaFlGuy]

I second that motion and amend it to include hard rubber sections.

 

Amendment seconded.

 

Bruce in Ocala, Fl