Knock out block... which one?

[TrevorML]

hi folks

 

of the 2 commonly available knock out blocks... the rectangular wooden block with the aluminium top with holes that is available from Pendemonium... and the round plastic one with the aluminium disc with lots of holes that is from WoodBin and Tryphon... which is the prefered one??? and why???

 

The good folk at Pendemonium feel that the wood one offers a little "give" when pounding away at your stuck section... which sounds logical and is the more traditional block to use it seems

 

Price is not so the issue here... $20 for the wood one and $35 - $40 for the plastic one... just wanting to get the best one for the job

 

cheers and thanks

Trevor

Edited February 27, 2007 by TrevorML

[OldGriz]

I use the one from Tryphon and have no problems with it... works like a dream for me...

I would recommend using it on a piece of foam rubber so as to not smack the nib onto a hard surface by accident DAMHIK

[Guest PeteWK]

You could also make your own. You'd need a drillpress plus the wood and whatever you use for the top plate. Otherwise either one of the aforementioned would be great.

 

PeteWK

[Johnny Appleseed]

I'll second Peter's comment. I picked up a nice block of maple for about $4 at the local woodcraft store and drilled as many different size holes as I had drill-bits. It's worked fine. The padded surface for underneath is a good idea.

 

John

[Guest PeteWK]

Yep. Maple is good. I chose Mahogany. Its a little more money than Maple but is the most water resistant of the major hardwoods. That's why they made ships out of it. The Alum. strip came from Home Depot.

 

PeteWK

[Guest PeteWK]

The thickness measures 1.75 inches. I purchased it at the lumber yard that supplies Home Depot in the Los Angeles area. They're nearly one square mile but they have a "small lot sales" building for the rest of us. It has nearly 100 different rare hard woods in every size imaginable. It's called Lane Stanton Vance in City of Industry.

 

Regards,

 

PeteWK

[TrevorML]

Geez... after all you guys makig your own I would have to be a real dick to not do the same...

 

I will have to look locally tho' for the timber as a 15 hour flight and AU$2000 later to get to Home Depot in Los Angeles is not as cheap an option as mail order from Pendemonium

 

only problem with my local hardware stores is they only sell the aluminium strip in lenghts to make the whole forum a knock out block each!!!... the wood is no problem... Oz has some of the best hardwoods around... and I can easily use some of the scraps I have laying around for firewood

 

what diameter holes do you folk recommend?? and their corresponding rod diameters??

 

cheers and many many thanks for your assistance on this... you are saving me some money

Trevor

[vacuumkid3]

Greetings!

 

I am hopefully getting a knock-out block from Tryphon, once Giovanni emails me back. I am also going to be getting Da Book. We are doing some pen repair for a guy at church whose brother collected pens. He has some REALLY awesome pens, like a few Duofolds, some Sheaffer's, and more. We would like a knock-out block to clean the feeds and undersides of the nibs thoroughly. However, my brother and I would have NO clue how to use one. I am sure Da Book explains, but my curiosity is getting the better of me . Could someone please explain what I do with both the larger holes and the smaller? Pictures may be good, too. Thanks again!

 

~~K~~

[OldGriz]

QUOTE (TrevorML @ Feb 27 2007, 06:51 PM)

Geez... after all you guys makig your own I would have to be a real dick to not do the same... I will have to look locally tho' for the timber as a 15 hour flight and AU$2000 later to get to Home Depot in Los Angeles is not as cheap an option as mail order from Pendemonium only problem with my local hardware stores is they only sell the aluminium strip in lenghts to make the whole forum a knock out block each!!!... the wood is no problem... Oz has some of the best hardwoods around... and I can easily use some of the scraps I have laying around for firewood what diameter holes do you folk recommend?? and their corresponding rod diameters?? cheers and many many thanks for your assistance on this... you are saving me some money Trevor

If you can't get small pieces of aluminum, a thick piece of tempered plexiglass or masonite will also work... after all you are not banging away with a framer's hammer... just light taps to get the nib and feed out.

[Johnny Appleseed]

QUOTE

only problem with my local hardware stores is they only sell the aluminium strip in lenghts to make the whole forum a knock out block each!!!...

 

Frankly I skipped the aluminum and just use the wood. A little softer on the pens.

 

I used every drill bit I had between 1/4" and 1/2". If I find a pen that needs bigger or smaller I will drill the corresponding hole.

 

John

[TrevorML]

I like your way of thinking John... makes a whole lot of sense...

 

what do you use for the rods to knock out the feeds??

 

cheers Trevor

Edited February 28, 2007 by TrevorML

[Tom Pike]

QUOTE (TrevorML @ Feb 27 2007, 04:53 PM)

I like your way of thinking John... amkes a whole lot of sense... what do you use for the rods to knock out the feeds?? cheers Trevor

I use brass rod stock in various sizes. Solid rod stock for most feeds, and hollow rod stock for some Sheaffer pens with a center piece that extends from the back of the feed. I find these at the local Model Train shop (great tool making supplies at those places!).

 

You could also use steel rod stock, hardwood dowels in various sizes, or anything that will fit and won't shatter.

 

Tom

[smbaugh]

Just to second John and Tom. I made my own with just the wood and hollow brass rods. I suppose without the aluminum or plexiglass it will eventually "wear out" so I'll just make another when that happens....

 

Steve

[TrevorML]

You folks have definitely saved me some money... will make my own tonight... mmmm...

 

now what shall I buy with that money I save by not getting the block... mmm... maybe another pen...

 

 

ANOTHER QUESTION... too lazy to start a new posting...

 

what do you knowledgeable DIY'ers use for section removal... pliers with rubber tubing... section pliers... bionic wrenches... ????

 

cheers T

Edited February 28, 2007 by TrevorML

[Guest PeteWK]

Go to the autoparts store and get the pliers made form removing spark plug wires. Simple as that.

 

PeteWK

[TrevorML]

already tried that Pete...

 

and the only ones I could find around here were order in ones for AU$60+ !!!!

[Tom Pike]

QUOTE (TrevorML @ Feb 27 2007, 05:57 PM)

ANOTHER QUESTION... too lazy to start a new posting... what do you knowledgeable DIY'ers use for section removal... pliers with rubber tubing... section pliers... bionic wrenches... ???? cheers T

I like the bionic wrench, but still find many uses for my old, homemade section pliers.

 

Here's how you make them:

 

- Find a cheap pair of pliers.

 

- Grind out the teeth with a bench grinder. Keep the opening round and small.

 

- Heat rubber gasoline line tubing and slide it over the jaws.

 

Voila!

 

 

[lallin]

If you live in one of the cities with a Harbor Frieght store, stop in and buy a couple of pair of spark plug wire pliers for a bout $3 each. They are a Chinese knockoff of the KD Tools KD135 tool that is sold as section pliers.

 

If you don't have a Harbor Frieght, check with local auto parts stores; if you find the KD135 at an auto parts store, you'll pay half, or less, than if you buy it from someone who calls the tool "section pliers".

[patrickfp]

I'm glad I bought "Da Book" because it saved me some money. I will be building my own knock-out block from scratch. This will be a good excuse to use my cordless drill which has hardly been used at all since I bought it. Also, like someone has said, not having a hard surface on the block can be a good thing.

[The Write Pen]

I have a preference for the metal topped wood knock out blocks from Pendemonium that come with four punch rods. I have used one for years and have never had a problem or a section that I couldn't work with it. A satisfied customer so to speak. haha.

 

Regards,

 

danny