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Carl Fisher - F3 Pens

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I've been working on my kitless body design for a little bit. I've never been a big fan of the large steps between the body/threads/section so I pulled the entire body down to the diameter of the cap threads and blended them into the body of the pen. A small step down at the rear to allow the cap to post low.

 

Blue with white ribbons. Ebonite front section and end caps. Clipless.

 

Capped: 126.25mm
Uncapped: 117.25mm
Posted: 140.75mm
Body Dia: 12mm
Cap Dia:14mm
Section threads: M9x0.75
Body threads: M12x0.75

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Carl Fisher - Owner and chief artisan at F3 Pens

https://bio.site/f3pens

 

 

 

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I like your threaded posting solution! What size nib did you use?

PAKMAN

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I like the sleek look of your pen!

 

Out of curiosity, how much more tooling would you need to use a larger nib size?

 

Different tap and die size for everything there really. The larger feed housing uses a larger tap which means the front section threading would need to be larger which then makes the cap threading larger. Otherwise the walls would become too thin if I were to just step up the nib thread size.

 

I either need to get into a small metal lathe to pick my own thread size or invest in another 3 sets of tap/die that I don't have now.

 

I think I've seen others manage a #6 nib in a pen close to that size, but I don't trust the structure at that point.

Carl Fisher - Owner and chief artisan at F3 Pens

https://bio.site/f3pens

 

 

 

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It's a nice design! I really like how the acrylic is flanked by the black. I've been wanting to try something like that. Are my eyes deceiving me, or does it seem that your nib unit is sitting rather far in your section? I've done that a few times... it's a pain having to redo a section as it seems all downhill once you can get a section finished.

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The housing is actually flush to the front of the section. I guess that's just the way the nib sits on the feed and in the housing.

Carl Fisher - Owner and chief artisan at F3 Pens

https://bio.site/f3pens

 

 

 

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Different tap and die size for everything there really. The larger feed housing uses a larger tap which means the front section threading would need to be larger which then makes the cap threading larger. Otherwise the walls would become too thin if I were to just step up the nib thread size.

 

I either need to get into a small metal lathe to pick my own thread size or invest in another 3 sets of tap/die that I don't have now.

 

I think I've seen others manage a #6 nib in a pen close to that size, but I don't trust the structure at that point.

That's pretty much exactly where I am. I have 12mm triple starts and use #5 nibs. I think using a #6 would really compromise my design options. But one of these days I will probably weaken and buy the #6 tap.

 

I did buy the 14mm single start set from Victornet but haven't really used them. The other expense is the 14mm requires the 1 1/2" die holder. And it's too big to fit in a a 1/2" chuck if that's what you use. So you need to come up with another way to hold the die holder.

 

Since I make fountain pens primarily for fun I have a hard time justifying the cost of another triple start and I am not sure that I want to spend the money on a metal lathe, nor do I think I want to spend the time learning how to use one.

 

By the way, I like your pen!

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For the larger nibs, I think before I drop money on another complete set of tap/die for larger pens, I may as well put that towards a mini metal lathe and do my threading that way.

Carl Fisher - Owner and chief artisan at F3 Pens

https://bio.site/f3pens

 

 

 

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Sweet pen Carl.

 

Bruce. Victor sell die holders for $13.50. The one for a 1 1/2" die has a 33/64" thru hole, the other die sizes are smaller. To use it I put a 33/64" transfer punch in my tailstock drill chuck and slide the die holder over it. Move the assembly to the pen barrel and hand turn the die with the die holder to cut the threads. It doesn't take much force to hand turn it over the plastics we use in pen making. On the other hand metals might be another thing. ;)

 

Pete

Edited by Inspector
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Sweet pen Carl.

 

Bruce. Victor sell die holders for $13.50. The one for a 1 1/2" die has a 33/64" thru hole, the other die sizes are smaller. To use it I put a 33/64" transfer punch in my tailstock drill chuck and slide the die holder over it. Move the assembly to the pen barrel and hand turn the die with the die holder to cut the threads. It doesn't take much force to hand turn it over the plastics we use in pen making. On the other hand metals might be another thing. ;)

 

Pete

That's exactly what I have and what I do!

 

The point I was trying to make above was that if you go to 14mm tap and die you will also a new die holder. Just one more thing to spend your hard earned money on!

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Not to keep hijacking Carl's thread but if you are capable of making pen barrels and caps you are also capable of making a die holder from plastic or a hard wood like Maple. The outside can be a constant diameter down it's length or even left square and the tapped holes for the die holder screws can be reinforced with CA and threaded. It isn't always necessary to buy another tool. You could even make the entire thing on a drill press with a normal drill bit to fit a transfer punch and a Forstner bit to match the die. ;)

 

Before I got the die holders I put the die in the lathe chuck and put the end of the centre drilled pen blank to the 60 degree centre in the tailstock and advanced it to the die by pushing the entire tailstock with my right hand and turned the pen blank into the die with my left. It's a little more awkward but it works nicely.

 

I'm not trying to be critical of you but sometimes we need to dump the preconceived ideas, training, and practices we've been taught and look at a problem with a fresh mind. Another way will almost always come to mind that can work.

 

Pete

Edited by Inspector
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