My Vintage? Eclipse Fountain Pen

[lilolphil]

It is missing a sac or bladder, any special type or size? Also model and time or period. I am new at FPN less than a month. Here are pictures that I hope will help answer my questions: Thanks, Phil

 

[DanDeM]

Handsome pen.

 

Looks like early 1930something. As a rule, Eclipse did not assign model names/numbers to their pens. No barrel imprints either. Only branding is on the clip and/or lever. Material could be Black Hard Rubber (judging from to color difference between the cap and the barrel).

 

It would be easier to get the sac size if you posted the length of the pen from the section to the end of of the barrel...but

"...you're new to pens".

 

Are you sure you want to try taking this apart? What if the pressure bar is rusted out? Hate to see you wreck that beauty when for $15/20 a pro will do the repair for you. And you won't end up with an inventory of sacs, talc, shellac and pressure bars (if needed).

 

Good luck with it.

Edited September 28, 2011 by Blotto

[lilolphil]

Hi Blotto, Thanks for your excellent and detailed response to my question. I haven’t done and won’t do anything to damage the pen, The filling lever has good spring. Does that mean the pressure bar is still connected and working or could it still possibly be rusted? If I do put a sac on and the pen fills, should I leave well enough alone? I measured the barrel and section and also the length of the section that the sac would attach to. Here are the measurements. Barrel 3 3/8 inches. Section inserts 3/8 “into the barrel. ½ of that or 3/16 “ is where the sac would be placed. So I would think to play it safe, a proper size sac would be 3 inches. I have never bought one. Can it be cut to size? What about the circumference of the sac? Are there different “fatnesses”? You mentioned talc, shellac, etc. Would that all be involved? Wow! Thanks, Phil

 

 

[ticoun]

i have a late 1920's black and pearl Eclipse, and it's a very nice pen.

from the type of clip, i'd say your pen was made before 1923, which also fits with the fact that the pen is made of ebonite (Sheaffer made celluloid popular in 1924).

[lilolphil]

Hi, Ticoun, Thank you for the additional info on the ebonite and estimate of the date. I wonder if the slight difference in shade or color is due to age and / or fading? Phil

[ticoun]

Hi, Ticoun, Thank you for the additional info on the ebonite and estimate of the date. I wonder if the slight difference in shade or color is due to age and / or fading? Phil

 

the color difference is due to oxydation of the ebonite. with age, water and sunlight will make the black ebonite turn brown or worse, olive green. very gentle polishing can remove the oxydation and make the pen black again, but it will eventually turn brown again. if you really want this pen to get back in perfect condition, i suggest sending it to a pro. some will offer to re-blacken the ebonite in a more durable way than just polishing.

[philm]

Phil,

 

I would concur with the estimates of late teens. The color changes are not uncommon with these pens.

 

Phil (another)

[futhark]

IMO you have great taste in pens: that is a classic.

[lilolphil]

IMO you have great taste in pens: that is a classic.

 

Hi, thanks for the compliment! Since I'm old I like old things. At my age I'm not up on texting if IMO is texting. I will appreciate knowing if the IMO is an abbreviation? I'm sure it has some meaning. Please let me know. I'm less than a month on FPN. Thanks again and waiting to hear from you, Phil

P.S. by the way, it is old, but why do you call it a classic. I would like your opinion on this.

Edited September 30, 2011 by lilolphil

[danthemann5]

IMO = in my opinion

 

I would think that "classic" in this context means that it is an outstanding example of popular style for the item in the time period in which it was produced.

[lilolphil]

IMO = in my opinion

 

I would think that "classic" in this context means that it is an outstanding example of popular style for the item in the time period in which it was produced.

 

Thank you for answering both questions,I keep learning much every day from FPN and members who help.

[DanDeM]

Hi Blotto, Thanks for your excellent and detailed response to my question. I haven't done and won't do anything to damage the pen, The filling lever has good spring.

 

Odd. Usually, if the clip has good spring, it's because it's pushing against a pliable sac.

 

Does that mean the pressure bar is still connected and working or could it still possibly be rusted? If I do put a sac on and the pen fills, should I leave well enough alone? I measured the barrel and section and also the length of the section that the sac would attach to. Here are the measurements. Barrel 3 3/8 inches. Section inserts 3/8 "into the barrel. ½ of that or 3/16 " is where the sac would be placed. So I would think to play it safe, a proper size sac would be 3 inches.

 

Can't help with the specific size you'll need...I send all my pens out.

 

I have never bought one. Can it be cut to size?

 

Sacs can, and usually have to be cut to length.

 

What about the circumference of the sac? Are there different "fatnesses"?

 

Yep.

 

You mentioned talc, shellac, etc. Would that all be involved?

 

Talc (unscented) and shellac are basic essentials. BTW (read: By The Way), just to add to the confusion of this goofy obsession, Black Hard Rubber (often abbrv. BHR) is the same as ebonite

 

Wow! Thanks, Phil

 

 

Edited September 30, 2011 by Blotto