English Parker Duofold - problem

[ppacaa]

This is my the weary first message on this forum. I am here a few months.

 

I have beautiful English Parker duofold (black with gold trim) with 14c gold nib „10“ (on my opinion it is fine). It is in mint, almost new condition except problem with a little ink licking onto filer. After filling there is no ink around the sac and metal shield. After one day using a little ink appears on the surface. I suppose that there is a hole in the sac under metal shield of aeromatic filler. Maybe the problem is something else?

 

 

Really problem is that in my country (Serbia) there is no any shop or something like this who service fountain pens. It is expensive and complicated to send pen abroad on service. So I like to know is it possible to repair sac? Other question is if I found some how new sac is it complicated to replace it? What I need to do it my self? I can use tools and can do some reparations. Is there somewhere some instructions how to do it?

 

I really need help because I want to use this beautiful pen without needed to open and clean ink hour by hour.

 

[ZeissIkon]

Generally, replacing a sac isn't difficult, though you may find it costly to obtain sacs and shellac (to cement the new sac to the nipple) in Serbia -- you might have to ship them in from UK or Germany. However, if this is the modern Duofold (as opposed to an original, which as far as I know were all lever or button fillers), the filler is probably a converter and it'll be much simpler to obtain a new converter than to repair the sac in the existing one. It should take a standard Parker converter, which are available for reasonable prices from most dealers who carry Parker pens.

[ppacaa]

  ZeissIkon said:

Generally, replacing a sac isn't difficult, though you may find it costly to obtain sacs and shellac (to cement the new sac to the nipple) in Serbia -- you might have to ship them in from UK or Germany. However, if this is the modern Duofold (as opposed to an original, which as far as I know were all lever or button fillers), the filler is probably a converter and it'll be much simpler to obtain a new converter than to repair the sac in the existing one. It should take a standard Parker converter, which are available for reasonable prices from most dealers who carry Parker pens.

 

My pen is like this but black:

 

English Parker Duofold

[Ernst Bitterman]

An aerometric filler, then. A little heat applied to metal collar should free it (no more heat than your fingers can stand-- don't just hold it over a candle), and you can then come at the point where the sac is mounted. A little heat will free it as well, and if you're lucky it's just a matter of reattaching the sac with some fresh shellac. If the sac is actually damaged, you will need to find a replacement for it. The only parts sources in know of in Europe are in Britain (so, "near Europe" might be more accurate, but I think I've heard of at least one place in Germany-- hopefully one of our other members can help out with this.

 

The picture below should give you a sense of what you're dealing with-- it's a 17 rather than a Duofold, but the filler is the same kind. You only want to get the cage and sac pulled free-- everything else should remain where it is.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v249/takematsu/Parker17guts.jpg

Edited August 27, 2009 by Ernst Bitterman

[ppacaa]

Thanks for fast end useful answer. I am sure that I can do this my self.

 

When I put sac cage back, should I only put it back or I have to use shellac? Is it necessary to heat something when put back sac and cage?

 

Is it necessary to use shellac for sac fixing? Can I use some kind of glue or something common available (glue or silicon or ...)?

 

I would appreciate if someone can link me to parts retailer in Europe.

 

 

[Beechwood]

  ppacaa said:

Thanks for fast end useful answer. I am sure that I can do this my self.

 

When I put sac cage back, should I only put it back or I have to use shellac? Is it necessary to heat something when put back sac and cage?

 

Is it necessary to use shellac for sac fixing? Can I use some kind of glue or something common available (glue or silicon or ...)?

 

I would appreciate if someone can link me to parts retailer in Europe.

 

 

In terms of parts you may find that you can buy a complete and serviceable pen, especially from ebay.co.uk for little money, I have bought a job lot of slimfold, junior, lady parker and P17 for less than £10, (around $15) within the past month for example. You could have had the slimfold but it is deep red.

[Ernst Bitterman]

Good heavens, I know we've got some Europeans around here! Random thoughts for the morning:

http://www.cathedralpens.co.uk

http://penandco.com

http://www.Penmuseum.co.uk/

[ppacaa]

Thanks for links. I found The first as specially interesting. I have to see if it is possible to pay from my country and to accept staff here.

 

Is it necessary to use shellac for sac fixing? Can I use some kind of glue or something common available like silicon witch is common used with glass and windows?

[ppacaa]

Thanks for links. I found The first as specially interesting. I have to see if it is possible to pay from my country and to accept staff here.

 

Is it necessary to use shellac for sac fixing? Can I use some kind of glue or something common available like silicon witch is common used with glass and windows?

[Garageboy]

Don't use glue or silicone, you want to be able to remove it later on and silicone and glue may damage the nipple

[Beechwood]

  ppacaa said:

Thanks for links. I found The first as specially interesting. I have to see if it is possible to pay from my country and to accept staff here.

 

Is it necessary to use shellac for sac fixing? Can I use some kind of glue or something common available like silicon witch is common used with glass and windows?

 

 

if shellac is not available in your country let me know

[ZeissIkon]

Actually, there should be woodworkers in Serbia; fine furniture is still often finished with shellac, and the amount you need for pens is such that most woodworkers will waste more in a day's brushing. The trick is making sure you're getting "waxy orange shellac" -- but that may be easier with woodworkers, since those who use a lot of shellac are far more likely to obtain it as flakes. A few grams of the shellac flakes, along with a tiny quantity (10-20 ml) of pure ethanol (denatured is okay, but the denaturant -- either methanol or gasoline -- isn't a requirement) will give enough liquid shellac to repair dozens of pens. Sacs are harder to come by than shellac in most of the world...

[ppacaa]

 

Now I see that it is possible to found shellac here. It is called and pronounced the same way: "ŠELAK".

It seems to be used for polishing furniture but also in art.

I thought it was something only for the pens, so I was confused.

I am sure I will find it now.

 

Thanks again.

 

The last question, for now Is is it possible to fix small holes on sac with silicon or glue? This I ask in case if it is not possible to get a new sac.

 

[Beechwood]

I would simply get a new sac, I dont think a repaired sac would be good

[Ernst Bitterman]

I tried to shore up the sac of a "51" Special that someone's cat had gotten at by dipping it in shellac (it was at that point MY pen, and I could experiment). This worked for a few fills, but I was always nervous about it and it did eventually fail. If you can't find an exact replacement, a silicon sac will work well enough.

[ZeissIkon]

  ppacaa said:

The last question, for now Is is it possible to fix small holes on sac with silicon or glue? This I ask in case if it is not possible to get a new sac.

 

It might be possible, but it really isn't practical; a new sac normally costs around two dollars, and they're small and light; three or four could be shipped in a letter envelope (say, folded inside a piece of A4 paper) without making it thick enough to cause trouble in the mail.

 

If you want to experiment with sealing your sac before ordering a replacement, or while waiting for new ones to arrive, I'd suggest washing the old talc off the sac with water and pure, oil-free soap (in the United States, I'd suggest White King laundry soap flakes, if you can find them, or traditional Ivory as a second choice), making your repair by applying a small piece of latex balloon over the leak with rubber cement, allowing the cement to dry for 24 hours, repowdering the sac with pure talc (not the perfumed, oiled variety sold as baby powder or cosmetic powder), and reassembling the pen. The resemblance to patching a bicycle inner tube is not a coincidence. I wouldn't expect a sac patched this way to last as long as a new one, but it might allow you to use a pen while you wait for international shipping (heck, for all I know, it might stand up for years).

[ppacaa]

  ZeissIkon said:

  ppacaa said:

The last question, for now Is is it possible to fix small holes on sac with silicon or glue? This I ask in case if it is not possible to get a new sac.

 

It might be possible, but it really isn't practical; a new sac normally costs around two dollars, and they're small and light; three or four could be shipped in a letter envelope (say, folded inside a piece of A4 paper) without making it thick enough to cause trouble in the mail.

 

If you want to experiment with sealing your sac before ordering a replacement, or while waiting for new ones to arrive, I'd suggest washing the old talc off the sac with water and pure, oil-free soap (in the United States, I'd suggest White King laundry soap flakes, if you can find them, or traditional Ivory as a second choice), making your repair by applying a small piece of latex balloon over the leak with rubber cement, allowing the cement to dry for 24 hours, repowdering the sac with pure talc (not the perfumed, oiled variety sold as baby powder or cosmetic powder), and reassembling the pen. The resemblance to patching a bicycle inner tube is not a coincidence. I wouldn't expect a sac patched this way to last as long as a new one, but it might allow you to use a pen while you wait for international shipping (heck, for all I know, it might stand up for years).

 

 

Finally I found Shellac! I have found it in art shop as orange tiny flacks. 100 grams is around 2$. How many ethanol I have to use with 10 grams of flacks?

When i prepare shellac and obtain new sac, should I put shellac on nipple and sac over them? What after that?

 

I can see I need talc too!? Is it necessary? What if I use baby talc (powder)!? In what kind of shops I should found pure talc?

 

I think i will repair my pen weary soon

Edited September 7, 2009 by ppacaa

[london]

I always use talc or chalk. I would not use baby powder, I have heard a number of times that it is usually not 100% pure and contains things that can ruin your sac such as perfumes. Just make sure you find something that is 100% talc.

 

Alternatively, easiest thing I find is a puncture repair outfit for a bicycle. The little stick of chalk is perfect.

 

I put shellac on the nipple then pull the sac over, then put a small amount around the bottom of the sac afterwards.

 

Richard Binder has a good article on his website about sac replacement http://www.richardspens.com/

 

Hope this helps

 

Mark

[london]

Oh, and sorry for being one of the absent Europeans

 

I've been on holiday :-)

 

...as many of us have this month :-)

 

- Mark

[ZeissIkon]

  ppacaa said:

Finally I found Shellac! I have found it in art shop as orange tiny flacks. 100 grams is around 2$. How many ethanol I have to use with 10 grams of flacks?

When i prepare shellac and obtain new sac, should I put shellac on nipple and sac over them? What after that?

 

I can see I need talc too!? Is it necessary? What if I use baby talc (powder)!? In what kind of shops I should found pure talc?

 

There are instructions here for dissolving the shellac flakes (you'll need the strongest possible solvent grade ethanol, also called "denatured alcohol", also called methylated spirits or "meths" in some English speaking countries -- the latter because methanol is added to make the alcohol poisonous, which makes it immune to beverage alcohol taxes and restrictions). I'd recommend a stronger "cut" than they suggest for beginners, mainly because you're using it as an adhesive rather than a wood finish. The "one pound cut" is equivalent to about 15% shellac by weight; I'd suggest mixing approximately equal volume of crushed shellac flakes and alcohol, which will be about three times this strength. Follow their directions on the methods, however, and you'll get good shellac, and your 100 grams will make enough mixed shellac to repair hundreds of pens. I'd suggest mixing much less, perhaps as little as 5 grams at a time; the flakes will keep virtually forever, but the mixed shellac is good for only a year or two from the date it was dissolved.

 

I wouldn't use baby talc; in this country, baby powder isn't talc at all any more (it's corn starch, which you don't want in a pen), and even when it was, like all cosmetic talc, it's got oils in it that can damage the sac (petroleum products and latex are not compatible). Here, failing other sources, you can get pure talc under the "chalk" cone at a billiard hall; if there are billiards or snooker halls in your country, the same thing should be true. Otherwise, you may be able to ask for pure talc from a pharmacist; failing that, dry graphite powder, used for lubricating locks, can be substituted (it'll get black stuff around, but if you blow off the excess before putting the barrel on the pen, shouldn't be a problem). Don't grind up pencils to get graphite, though; pencil leads contain clay as well as graphite, which could cause trouble with the pen's mechanism (pure graphite is slippery and very, very soft; it won't cause trouble).